Cru Bourgeois 2014 tasting: savvy consumers take note

Office of the Alliance de Cru Bourgeois, downtown Bordeaux
Tasted Monday, October 31, 2016 by PanosKakaviatos with 769 views

Introduction

In a visit to Bordeaux late last year, I tried a sampling of cru bourgeois wines from the 2014 vintage. While not all of the wines I tried were to my liking, many proved good to very good and can provide bang for your wine buck. The tasting also reminds readers that 2015 is not a homogenous vintage and that rains in the northern Medoc did not help St Estephe, for example, and that 2014 can be a better vintage in the northern Medoc...
For more details, pics and video: http://wine-chronicles.com/blog/cru-bourgeois-bargains-2014/

Flight 1 (8 Notes)

  • 2014 Château Amour 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc

    Coming from the northern Médoc, where rain came at the wrong time in 2015, this is a case of a better 2014. Half Merlot, half Cabernet Sauvignon with 13% alcohol, this is a smooth – even easy going – wine which comes across as less aggressive than some northern Médocs with harder tannins. Made from rather high yields (over 50 hectolitres per hectare), yet very flavorful. Savvy consumers should seek this one out.

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  • 2014 Château de Bensse Médoc 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc

    Made from 17 hectoliters per hectare, with 70% Merlot, this feels more concentrated that the preceding wine - and even a touch warm on the finish, seeming like 14% even if the label says 13.5. A richer style that charms me less, but score higher if you want greater density and less charm.

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  • 2014 Château Castera 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc

    There is a smooth aspect to the texture and freshness, but I could not shake an impression of a hint of green that detracts. Mostly Merlot with 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% each of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc.

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  • 2014 Château Clément Saint-Jean 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc

    A savory Medoc, red and black fruit, with 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet. The tannins are just a touch rustic, but time should tame them.

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  • 2014 Château Fontis 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc

    Also from the north – in Ordonnac – where 2015 saw more rain at the wrong time, this 2014 is likely a better wine - and one of the best Médocs from this tasting, as it conveyed a suave and smooth aspect for its tannins, and an orange rind like freshness combined with the expected red and black fruits expected from the Cabernet and Merlot, evenly mixed in this wine that clocks in at 13% alcohol.

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  • 2014 Famille Bouey Médoc Château Maison Blanche 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc

    No, not the place where Mr. Trump now lives – at least part time. The nearly 80% Merlot makes this quite supple and plum like. Smooth as well. Perhaps I could do with a bit more length on the finish, but overall very nice.

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  • 2014 Château Ricaudet

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc

    Nail polish on the nose, and rough on the palate.

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  • 2014 Château Tour Prignac 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc

    Here we have a rather serious wine, which has somewhat raw tannin, but a very agreeable nose and fine structure. One of those wines that just needs a couple of years in the cellar to “come around” as the tannins are not green, but just a bit raw. And there is ripeness, fruit and richness to balance the equation.

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Flight 2 (14 Notes)

  • 2014 Château Arnauld

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    Not really my style as the wine comes across as heavy and over extracted. When tasted again at a dinner in Washington D.C. more recently, it got high scores from some participants. A question of style.

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  • 2014 Château Barthez 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    Oh, what a relief! This comes across as sheer refreshment after the Arnauld. Smooth and elegant, and certainly rich from the 66% Merlot, but far more balanced.

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  • 2014 Château Beaumont 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    Here we have a “go-to” Haut Medoc, which is fairly consistent year-in, year out. Not quite as rich and soyeux (silky) as the Barthez, but serious and balanced, with fine structure and an overall smooth texture.

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  • 2014 Château Bel Air Gloria 84 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    Somewhat clumsy and a bit heavy.

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  • 2014 Château Cissac 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    A lovely cru bourgeois, with very smooth tannin, savory richness and a freshness on the long finish. Bravo.

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  • 2014 Château Dasvin-Bel-Air 84 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    A wine to avoid, as it comes across as far too hard.

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  • 2014 Château Haut-Bellevue Haut-Médoc 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    Delicious, fun and easy. Maybe not the most structured among the wines tasted today, but a pleasure to drink! I like a spicy aspect that could come from the 10% Petit Verdot.

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  • 2014 Château Larose Perganson 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    Nearly half each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon plus 4% of Petit Verdot, this wine comes across as very youthful in color and has both a smooth and structured palate with a long finish. Lovely. I had a less favorable impression over a dinner tasting in January 2017, so let me be somewhat cautious on the score.

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  • 2014 Château Larose-Trintaudon 86 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    At nearly 50 hectoliters per hectare, this is quite lovely and savory. The palate is smooth if not quite as structured as the Perganson, and the finish is shorter, but a fine enough wine at a decent price.

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  • 2014 Barton & Guestier Château Magnol 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    Have had a soft spot for this wine ever since first encountered back in 2003. There is a sense of greater completeness to this wine just after the Trintaudon. A longer finish. A more spherical aspect, with smooth tannin as well as richness, and more character. Certainly tasty and has been a “go to” cru bourgeois for me for some time.

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  • 2014 Château Maucamps 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    Well, well! One of the best of the tasting, with greater nuance than the two preceding wines. And at 14% alcohol does not come across as heavy handed or overly oaked as is Arnauld. In the top 5 of this tasting.

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  • 2014 Château Meyre 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    Quite a pure fruit aspect, focused and lovely. A charming wine if not among the deepest or longest.

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  • 2014 Château Réal

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    Actually this is somewhat diluted and, unlike its moniker, comes across as less real in vinous terms as compared to many others from this tasting…

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  • 2014 Château Saint-Paul Haut-Médoc 85 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    An improvement over the Real, but more ho-hum flat than engaging.

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Flight 3 (3 Notes)

Flight 4 (3 Notes)

Flight 5 (3 Notes)

  • 2014 Château Laffitte-Carcasset 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    Hard, Old School Saint Estephe, yet there is a sumptuous aspect on the mid palate that reassures. Could it be the 32% Merlot? I take a wait and see approach, as the tannins are not unripe.

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  • 2014 Château Lilian Ladouys 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    More fruit forward aspects on the nose and palate as compared to preceding wine, but also displays Saint Estephe power. A fine showing indeed.

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  • 2014 Château Serilhan 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    This had been taken from cask 9 days earlier. And yet very smooth and subtle overall, even if the tannins are just a touch raw. But this shows much promise! Bravo.

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Closing

For the past few years, I have been organizing tastings of the cru bourgeois wines: most recently a dinner tasting at the excellent Ripple Restaurant in Washington D.C. And I was not that surprised that blogger Isaac James Baker (Reading, Writing and Wine) rated some of the cru bourgeois from that tasting dinner quite highly (a few 90+ scores). The dinner tasting featured various vintages (including 2014) from some 16 producers.

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