Bordeaux Wimps, Benoît Chamoux table

La Trompette, London
Tasted Friday, April 28, 2017 by SimonG with 401 views

Flight 1 (1 Note)

Lou-ken-cas

Flight 2 (2 Notes)

Ragout de cochon de lait, petit pois, fèves, cavatelli et crème fraîche

  • 2005 Château Gruaud Larose 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Quite tight and dense on the nose, a touch of charred beef fat coming through but otherwise a dense blackcurrant. Plenty of grip but not unapproachable. Peaceful hibernation. Lovely balance though, and a touch of dark chocolate emerging with air. Needs time to start opening up with some complexity. **(**)

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  • 1996 Château Langoa Barton 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Lovely cedar and sandlewood nose. Blackcurrant core, opening to a minerally, pencil lead development. Harmonious, a florality develops in conjunction with the food. Possibly a little light — at least, not quite the persistence for top flight — but holds well over the course of the lunch as does exactly what one would hope and expect. ****

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Flight 3 (3 Notes)

Canard de Barbarie faisandé, morilles, foie gras et oignon grillot

  • 1994 Château Léoville Barton 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Classical nose. Blackcurrant and a little lactic on the nose. A touch of redcurrant too. The leanness of the vintage, but a lovely example. Cool and lithe and refreshing. Lacking slightly alongside the rich food, this needs simpler fayre, and to be enjoyed on its own. Holding well, though it's not going to improve. ***

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  • 1990 Château Léoville Barton 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    A slightly subdued nose cf the 94 initially. Quite jammy with a touch of Madeira cake or even jam. Lacks some focus and persistence on the attack, but fills out on the mid-palate and develops with some air. Not the best bottle of this, but still a good drink. solid ***1/2 to bare **** with the benefit of doubt.

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  • 1986 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Flawed

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Interesting nose, quite floral and nuanced. Cool. Cool fruit. Corky finish, at the very least astringently woody. Shame. No getting worse with air. Corked.

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Flight 4 (3 Notes)

Carré d'agneau de lait, ail noir et choux vert, pomme de terre nouvelles

  • 1995 Château Mouton Rothschild 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    A completely different level of power and density in the glass cf the previous flights, even the 05 Gruaud. Some graphite emerging under the power and weight of crème de cassis fruit. Ripe, rounded, very confident and comely, and it knows it. It does tighten with air and start to show some of its vintage's character. Palate doesn't quite have the complexity or perhaps more importantly, the development yet. ***(*)

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  • 1994 Château Latour Grand Vin 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Ripe, eucalyptus and spearmint nose. Quite flamboyant. Lovely freshness here and layers of weight and complexity cf the Barton. Surprisingly dense and ripe and plush albeit with line. ****

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  • 1988 Château Latour Grand Vin 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Dense and plush. Serious. Restrained but a definite sense of plushness too if that makes sense. Very complex, nuanced and harmonious nose. Lovely. 88 line with density and interest. Lots here. Very good and gains a little sweetness in the glass but lacks a pinch of generosity for top flight. A super wine though. ****1/2

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Flight 5 (1 Note)

Clafoutis d'abricot sauvage, amande et glace au miel

  • 1983 Château d'Yquem 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Deep old gold. Lovely nose, botrytis without the medicinal edge. Rich, good acidity with apricot, barley sugar and marmalade notes. Not quite as sweet as I suspect it once was, this is nicely honeyed and starting to transition from pudding (a great match today) to richly sauced foie gras. A fitting end to this particular notebook. ****1/2

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