Spanish Holiday Wines 2017

Our annual trip to Spain. Most of the wines from la Cabaña de Saura in El Algar.

• 2016 Bodegas Protos Verdejo Rueda 86 Points

  Spain, Castilla y León, Rueda

  (7/2/2017)

  Tasty if simple Verdejo from the famous Protos cooperative. Brimming with fresh melon and grapefruit. GV at Eur 6,50

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• 2014 Castell d’Encús Costers del Segre -SO2 68 Points

  Spain, Catalunya, Costers del Segre

  (7/3/2017)

  A single estate wine, made without sulphur, this had a disgusting pong of vomit and rotting vegetables on opening. Thankfully that blew off, though a sense of something putrid remained. There was overripe melon and overripe pear, plus something caramel that suggested barrel fermentation, though that couldn't be it as the back label refers to fermentation (partially) in carved stone vats from the XIi century. It's aggressively lean on the palate, quite lemony, and thankfully rather short on the finish. Not for me. 13% ABV. Eur 18,75.

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• 2014 Bodegas Muga Rioja Blanco 88 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  (7/11/2017)

  Attractive and classy white Rioja from 90% Viura and 10% Malvasía. Judiciously handled new oak (225l barriques, French oak). Three months on its lees, batonnage once a week. 13%. GV. Eur 8,75.

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• 2015 Adegas Valmiñor Rías Baixas Davíla 89 Points

  Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas

  (7/13/2017)

  Attractively fresh pear and melon fruit on the nose, with a bit of grapefruit too. This Albariño blend, lent complexity through the addition of Loureiro and Treixadura, is nicely balanced, relatively soft, clean and refreshing. 12.5%. GV at Eur 11.95.

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• 2015 Gomez Cruzado Rioja Blanco 88 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

  (7/15/2017)

  Attractive, fruit forward Rioja from Viura (not Garnacha Blanco, as I was told in the shop) and Tempranillo Blanco, one of just three producers to use this rare variety, I was told. Melon and pears on the nose, a hint of lemon. Clean, refreshing, open knit, uncomplicated. Enjoyable and GV. 13%. Eur 7.95.

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• 2016 Mendavia Rioja Señorio de Ondas 70 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

  (7/3/2017)

  Bought to see what Eur 2,08 buys you in Spain. The answer: something perfectly drinkable, with a hint of strawberries on the nose, but rather too fumey; quite lean, edging on tart on the palate. Not an experiment I'll repeat in a hurry. But at least relatively inoffensive. 12.5%.

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• 2016 Izadi Rioja Larrosa 89 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja

  (7/11/2017)

  Really lovely, a proper rosé rather than rosado. Old vine Garnacha grown at altitude. A nice salmon pink colour, fresh strawberry fruit, clean, gluggable. 13.5%. Eur 7,95

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• 2015 Teso La Monja Toro Almirez 92 Points

  Spain, Castilla y León, Toro

  (7/1/2017)

  Youthfully vibrant inky purple. Bursting with fruit, and evolves rapidly in the glass on warming up after a short chill. Violets, raspberries the main components. Bananas and chocolate orange in there too. Some vanilla from the oak. And the dandelion and burdock I see in my review of an earlier vintage is absolutely spot on here too. Notably fine grained, beautifully textured, tannins quite furry. Easy to recognize as a Tempranillo. Distinctively Toro. A very fine example. 14.5% ABV. Eur 14,75.

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• 2014 Bodegas Manchón Mieres Ribera del Duero 47 Crianza 92 Points

  Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

  (7/2/2017)

  Quite jammy to begin with, but also quite mineral. A nice whiff of violets, and something yeasty and dry that made me think Carignan. I was thinking East coast Spain (a restrained Jumilla, perhaps Priorat?) but that was way out. This is Ribeiro del Duero, and it was a delicious drop over several days, served chilled, on Day 2 and after with a gloriously gluggable sour cherry character. Eur 17,95

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• 2010 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Alberdi Crianza 88 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  (7/3/2017)

  Looks quite evolved. Med red with a bit of a brownish tinge. Leathery aromas at first on the nose, then the vivid impression of violets. Some plummy fruit takes a bit of coaxing out, but completes a classy, indeed beguiling nose. The palate maybe isn't there yet, not quite at the same level, but it promises more for the future. It's nicely balanced between ripe fruit and acidity. Maybe a bit lean, with a hint of tartness and bitterness. But a good wine for the Eur 8,50 price point. 13.5 % ABV.

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• 2015 Bodega Mustiguillo El Terrerazo Finca Terrerazo 93 Points

  Spain, Valencia, El Terrerazo

  (7/4/2017)

  Flavoursome but elegant. 100% Bobal, with ripe, sweet fruit, a whiff of the violets I seem to be picking up in quite a few (quite different) wines on this trip, and a pleasing austerity. Cool, classy.

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• 2011 Gomez Cruzado Rioja Honorable Cosecha 91 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

  (7/5/2017)

  Classy elegant Rioja, reminiscent of a good quality Margaux. Lots of dark berry and stone fruits, a good whiff of violets. Open but restrained on the palate. VG. Eur 17.95

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• 2015 Casa Castillo Jumilla El Molar 91 Points

  Spain, Murcia, Jumilla

  (7/6/2017)

  Attractive, cool climate Grenache, grown at 700m on North facing slopes. Has a wonderful perfume and none of the jamminess that often typifies Jumilla. Lots of dry extract on the palate. Austere but appealing.

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• 2014 Bodegas y Viñedos Ébano Ribera del Duero Salvaje (Coleccion Privada)

  Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

  (7/7/2017)

  Disappointing, thin, disjointed. Maybe a subpar bottle?

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• 2013 Bodega Numanthia Toro Termes 92 Points

  Spain, Castilla y León, Toro

  (7/8/2017)

  Opulent, flashy, sexy. Carries its 15% ABV effortlessly and surprisingly elegantly. Lots of sweet ripe dark stone and berry fruit, but nicely balanced and retains freshness. GV at Eur 18.95.

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• 2015 Teso La Monja Toro Almirez

  Spain, Castilla y León, Toro

  (7/9/2017)

  This didn't impress to the same extent as the first bottle. Maybe didn't leave it enough time to evolve after opening. Still a nice drop, though. NR.

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• 2012 Bodegas Pintia Toro Pintia 94 Points

  Spain, Castilla y León, Toro

  (7/10/2017)

  Deliciously gluggable and yet intellectually compelling. Ripe dark stone fruit immediately on the nose, with a good dose of vanilla from American oak. Evolved magically in the glass with a range of berry fruit aromas, violets, and an underpinning minerality. All this at 15% ABV, but I felt no alcohol heat. Well worth the Eur 29,95 it goes for.

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• 2013 Casa Castillo Jumilla Las Gravas 82 Points

  Spain, Murcia, Jumilla

  (7/12/2017)

  Brett on the nose, very barnyard. Some jammy blue and blackberry fruit, but a bit lifeless. Quite acidic on the palate, not especially well integrated. Improved somewhat in the glass, without ever fully convincing. I cosistently prefer this estate's cheaper El Molar from 100% Grenache. 70% Monastrell, 15% Syrah, 15% Garnacha. "Dry farmed", "vino de parcela". 15%. Eur 18,95.

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• 2014 Bodegas Manchón Mieres Ribera del Duero 47 Crianza

  Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

  (7/11/2017)

  This was again better on days two and three after opening. Nice drop.

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• 2015 Vinos Valtuille Bierzo Pago de Valdoneje 88 Points

  Spain, Castilla y León, Bierzo

  (7/11/2017)

  Correct, attractively plump Mencía from 85 year old vines. 4 months in oak barrels, two in bottle. 14%. GV at Eur 9,50.

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• 2012 Bodegas Sierra Cantabria Rioja Cuvée Especial 82 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

  (7/13/2017)

  Solid but uninspiring Rioja, quite dry in the mouth, lacks a bit of fruit and freshness. 14%. Eur 14.95

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• 2014 Ferrer Bobet Priorat Vinyes Velles 91 Points

  Spain, Catalunya, Priorat

  (7/14/2017)

  Sleek, with a perfume and spice character reminiscent of Southern Rhone. This is a blend of Carignan, Garnatxa Negra, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Lots of dark stone fruit on the refreshing nose, evolves nicely in the glass. In the mouth, the acidity is more prominent than I recall from a previous bottle, but the balance improves with a little air. Impressively structured and Very nice wine. 14%. Eur 25,95.

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• 2013 Silvano García Jumilla Dulce Monastrell

  Spain, Murcia, Jumilla

  (7/4/2017)

  Very attractive sweetie from a producer connected to the well known house of Olivares. More freshness of fruit than in most of the genre. Would buy again. Eur 11,75

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