Tasty if simple Verdejo from the famous Protos cooperative. Brimming with fresh melon and grapefruit. GV at Eur 6,50

A single estate wine, made without sulphur, this had a disgusting pong of vomit and rotting vegetables on opening. Thankfully that blew off, though a sense of something putrid remained. There was overripe melon and overripe pear, plus something caramel that suggested barrel fermentation, though that couldn't be it as the back label refers to fermentation (partially) in carved stone vats from the XIi century. It's aggressively lean on the palate, quite lemony, and thankfully rather short on the finish. Not for me. 13% ABV. Eur 18,75.

Attractive and classy white Rioja from 90% Viura and 10% Malvasía. Judiciously handled new oak (225l barriques, French oak). Three months on its lees, batonnage once a week. 13%. GV. Eur 8,75.

Attractively fresh pear and melon fruit on the nose, with a bit of grapefruit too. This Albariño blend, lent complexity through the addition of Loureiro and Treixadura, is nicely balanced, relatively soft, clean and refreshing. 12.5%. GV at Eur 11.95.

Attractive, fruit forward Rioja from Viura (not Garnacha Blanco, as I was told in the shop) and Tempranillo Blanco, one of just three producers to use this rare variety, I was told. Melon and pears on the nose, a hint of lemon. Clean, refreshing, open knit, uncomplicated. Enjoyable and GV. 13%. Eur 7.95.

Bought to see what Eur 2,08 buys you in Spain. The answer: something perfectly drinkable, with a hint of strawberries on the nose, but rather too fumey; quite lean, edging on tart on the palate. Not an experiment I'll repeat in a hurry. But at least relatively inoffensive. 12.5%.

Really lovely, a proper rosé rather than rosado. Old vine Garnacha grown at altitude. A nice salmon pink colour, fresh strawberry fruit, clean, gluggable. 13.5%. Eur 7,95

Youthfully vibrant inky purple. Bursting with fruit, and evolves rapidly in the glass on warming up after a short chill. Violets, raspberries the main components. Bananas and chocolate orange in there too. Some vanilla from the oak. And the dandelion and burdock I see in my review of an earlier vintage is absolutely spot on here too. Notably fine grained, beautifully textured, tannins quite furry. Easy to recognize as a Tempranillo. Distinctively Toro. A very fine example. 14.5% ABV. Eur 14,75.

Quite jammy to begin with, but also quite mineral. A nice whiff of violets, and something yeasty and dry that made me think Carignan. I was thinking East coast Spain (a restrained Jumilla, perhaps Priorat?) but that was way out. This is Ribeiro del Duero, and it was a delicious drop over several days, served chilled, on Day 2 and after with a gloriously gluggable sour cherry character. Eur 17,95

Looks quite evolved. Med red with a bit of a brownish tinge. Leathery aromas at first on the nose, then the vivid impression of violets. Some plummy fruit takes a bit of coaxing out, but completes a classy, indeed beguiling nose. The palate maybe isn't there yet, not quite at the same level, but it promises more for the future. It's nicely balanced between ripe fruit and acidity. Maybe a bit lean, with a hint of tartness and bitterness. But a good wine for the Eur 8,50 price point. 13.5 % ABV.

Flavoursome but elegant. 100% Bobal, with ripe, sweet fruit, a whiff of the violets I seem to be picking up in quite a few (quite different) wines on this trip, and a pleasing austerity. Cool, classy.

Classy elegant Rioja, reminiscent of a good quality Margaux. Lots of dark berry and stone fruits, a good whiff of violets. Open but restrained on the palate. VG. Eur 17.95

Attractive, cool climate Grenache, grown at 700m on North facing slopes. Has a wonderful perfume and none of the jamminess that often typifies Jumilla. Lots of dry extract on the palate. Austere but appealing.

Disappointing, thin, disjointed. Maybe a subpar bottle?

Opulent, flashy, sexy. Carries its 15% ABV effortlessly and surprisingly elegantly. Lots of sweet ripe dark stone and berry fruit, but nicely balanced and retains freshness. GV at Eur 18.95.

This didn't impress to the same extent as the first bottle. Maybe didn't leave it enough time to evolve after opening. Still a nice drop, though. NR.

Deliciously gluggable and yet intellectually compelling. Ripe dark stone fruit immediately on the nose, with a good dose of vanilla from American oak. Evolved magically in the glass with a range of berry fruit aromas, violets, and an underpinning minerality. All this at 15% ABV, but I felt no alcohol heat. Well worth the Eur 29,95 it goes for.

Brett on the nose, very barnyard. Some jammy blue and blackberry fruit, but a bit lifeless. Quite acidic on the palate, not especially well integrated. Improved somewhat in the glass, without ever fully convincing. I cosistently prefer this estate's cheaper El Molar from 100% Grenache. 70% Monastrell, 15% Syrah, 15% Garnacha. "Dry farmed", "vino de parcela". 15%. Eur 18,95.

This was again better on days two and three after opening. Nice drop.

Correct, attractively plump Mencía from 85 year old vines. 4 months in oak barrels, two in bottle. 14%. GV at Eur 9,50.

Solid but uninspiring Rioja, quite dry in the mouth, lacks a bit of fruit and freshness. 14%. Eur 14.95

Sleek, with a perfume and spice character reminiscent of Southern Rhone. This is a blend of Carignan, Garnatxa Negra, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Lots of dark stone fruit on the refreshing nose, evolves nicely in the glass. In the mouth, the acidity is more prominent than I recall from a previous bottle, but the balance improves with a little air. Impressively structured and Very nice wine. 14%. Eur 25,95.

Very attractive sweetie from a producer connected to the well known house of Olivares. More freshness of fruit than in most of the genre. Would buy again. Eur 11,75