The Boston Palmerathon

Tasted Sunday, January 14, 2018 by englishman's claret with 267 views

Introduction

Six of us gathered for a Palmer vertical, with the kind addition of an 83 and 89 Chateau Margaux to serve as foils to the Palmer. I love Palmer; its appeal is almost universal. It has more richness and supple fat than typical to the Left Bank owing to its higher Merlot content. But it loses no elegance in the process - to my nose, its ephemeral perfume insures its place among the most elegant wines of Bordeaux.

Flight 1 - Amuse bouche (1 Note)

Gougeres (100% Comte)

Flight 2 - Entree (3 Notes)

Duck confit, foie gras, and mascarpone ravioli on a bed of roasted asparagus, finished with a morel cream sauce

  • 1966 Château Palmer 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    A glorious, ethereal perfume. Diaphanous nose, so complex: violet, cassis, minty, lavender, cedar, mineral, eucalyptus. Like the 66 Lynch from a while back, the glorious notes aren't knitted as tightly together as the current era's wines are, but perhaps that's the particular bottle rather than the wine in general. Such a soft touch, still with lots of intensity. However, this is living dangerously. From a high mid shoulder with a slightly depressed cork.

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  • 1970 Château Palmer 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Even the Palmer elegance and luminosity can't quite overcome the stubborn, taciturn 1970 vintage. Though the nose is relatively inexpressive and inelegant (particularly cf the 1966), you appreciate a wall of black fruit, walnut, cedar, and the faintest hint of violet. I hoped this would unwind with air, but it ended up transitioning into a very coffee and vanilla-dominated nose. Hm. From a base neck fill with a flush cork.

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  • 1959 Château Palmer Flawed

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Oxidized, sadly.

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Flight 3 - Plat (2 Notes)

Double-cut rack of lamb on a bed of microgreens beside gratin dauphinois

  • 1983 Château Palmer 96 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Big nose right out of the decanter (60-90 minutes); raspberry, plum, violets with a surprisingly herbal edge which grew with time, eventually becoming a bit overpowering. Seamlessly knit together, glossy palate, long finish. Delightful. The last time I had this (from 750) in 2014, it gave a more floral showing/cedar showing with less herbaceousness. From magnum with a base neck fill.

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  • 1983 Château Margaux 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    We had the chance to follow this over the course of several hours in the decanter and I'm glad we did, because different elements came and went on the nose revealing raspberries, lilies, cedar, chocolate, an exotic spice profile with cardamom notes at different points. But overall, this is so coquettish - it flirts and gives bits of itself, but compared with the 83 Palmer in the next glass, it's so ungenerous. 94-95 but likely not a future purchase.

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Flight 4 - Fromage (2 Notes)

Comte Grand Cru Extra, Tomme Vache des Aldudes, Brie de Rougement, Mothais sur feuille

  • 1989 Château Palmer 97 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    I love the 89 Palmer and this was a great example of a great wine. Big nose that really has it all; the fruit is elegant but fat showing loads of juicy plum and blackcurrant. Very floral, violet and lavender focused as befits a Palmer. Cedar, loam, leathery accents add a delicious savory touch. Sumptuous palate, well-balanced. Long finish. I like where this is going

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  • 1989 Château Margaux 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Very pretty, but again somewhat underwhelming for Margaux and compared with the 89 Palmer beside it. Raspberry fruit, lily-of-the-valley, cedary touches, faint spice. Well-constructed palate, long finish.

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Flight 5 - Dessert (1 Note)

Pear frangipane tart

  • 1975 Château d'Yquem 97 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    What a stunning wine. So few things grab the attention like d'Yquem and this justifiably has a formidable reputation. Tremendous nose; very fresh profile, apricot, creme brulee, peach, mineral. Super long and still quite young, reminding you of how much more slowly Sauternes age cf the reds.

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Closing

We did quite well in the end; the wines were stunning and only loss was the madeirized 59. The character of Palmer was very consistent across vintages without losing any reflection of each unique vintage. The 89 was the consensus red wine of the night and the transition from the 89 flight to the d'Yquem was a pretty thrilling finale.

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