1961 Bordeaux: Dead or Alive?

It’s not every day (or every year) I get to taste a gaggle of 1961 Bordeaux so I was delighted to have this opportunity. I also met a sometime contributor to BWE for the first time who flew in to sunny South Florida for the occasion, although he requested I keep his name anonymous. To make the evening even more fun, I inserted a blind tasting of two bottles of ‘61 Latour, one purchased many years ago and presumably legitimate and another purchased recently at a greatly reduced price which was suspected to be fake from label irregularities, but not definitively.

• 1961 Château Latour Grand Vin 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  This bottle looked totally legitimate and in good condition, too. At first, very disappointing though, too acidic and lacking freshness, too simple, too tired, too old, not close to what the best bottles can be. But like a Phoenix, it gradually arise from the dead to display amazing depth and complexity. Lots of leather, ash, minerals, beyond fruit, although never displaying the sweetness of the greatest old Bordeaux. Still, remarkable and deeply satisfying, even thrilling. What a ride.

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• 1961 Château Latour Grand Vin Flawed

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  This bottle was sold to me recently at a reduced price because the merchant thought it might be fake. Indeed, there were problems with the label and the capsule, especially noted was the vintage in black font instead of red. When opened though, it was definite at a minimum that the capsule and cork (labeled Latour 1961) were very old. First impression was that the wine was correct for Bordeaux of this age, including aroma, color and taste. Unfortunately it quickly became apparent after a brief exposure to air it was heavily oxidized, all prunes and raisins, to the point that it was impossible to assess. Frustrating and disappointing since I will never know what it was.

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• 1961 Château La Gaffelière Naudes 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  From the era when La Gaffelière still had the word Naudes appended to it, this bottle, sourced from WineBid recently, was in good shape and interesting in an academic way but also an enjoyable drink. Distinctive, a little astringent, intriguing and intricate, it rewards patience and study. As it breathed, it became softer, more elegant and smoother. Very nice indeed.

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• 1961 Vieux Château Certan 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  Lovely wine, still lively and fragrant with the natural sweetness of well preserved old Bordeaux. A hint of mint adds complexity. Outstanding.

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• 1961 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 97 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  The most successful of the sextet of ‘61 Bordeaux we had on this special night, which the owner attributed to its superb provenance from an LA collector who purchased it on release. Seemingly decades younger than its true age, deep ruby, very lively, loads of blackberry and cassis. But no young Pichon-Baron could ever have this degree of complexity. Fascinating combination of old and young, what you hope to find but rarely do.

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• 1961 Château Ausone 89 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  It started off on a low note, too much acetone and too sour and dry. Yet like many old Bordeaux it freshens up with air and rebalances itself. Still, not as impressive as the other ‘61s that night, from an era where Ausone was not yet back on form to the glory days of the forties and fifties or the twenty-first century.

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• 1975 Château d'Yquem 97 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Ho hum, another great Yquem. This bottle displayed a gorgeous blend of the full on, massive style (eg., ‘59, ‘71) and the more nuanced middle weight style (eg., ‘67, ‘01). Of course it’s rich and luscious with all the expected tangerine, cinnamon, vanilla and crème brûlée you’d expect. But somehow it remains poised and elegant. Fabulous - again.

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Other than the disappointing Ausone, the wines showed quite well. Of course if you’re looking for bright bold fruit you will not find it, but if you can appreciate Bordeaux in its tertiary phase, you will find much to appreciate and enjoy.