A Special 40th Anniversary Celebration

Restaurant Daniel, New York City
Tasted Thursday, November 8, 2018 by JonnyG with 354 views

Introduction

An unfathomably impressive array of handpicked wines from an important cellar, celebrating an important milestone while generating contributions for two tremendously good causes.

Flight 1 - Three Whites (3 Notes)

served with langoustine salad, caviar and crème fraiche

  • 2015 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

    Unsurprisingly tight at this early age, seemingly brimming with unreleased energy and power, trapped just beneath the surface. Mere hints of aromas on the nose for the first 90 minutes, and only slightly more generous thereafter: tropical fruit (we debated lychee vs. guava), some flint and a hint of smoke. A compact and concentrated palate, so precise, with a dense core of stone fruit wrapped within tremendous minerality, giving an impression of some extraction. Try to wait 5 years minimum on these.

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  • 2015 Aubert Chardonnay CIX Estate Vineyard 93 Points

    USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

    A somewhat monolithic wine at this early stage, with a restrained nose and evident sweetness on the layered, straightforward palate. Meant to come off as Burgundian, while I wonder if there isn't some RS here?

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  • 2009 Marcassin Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard 92 Points

    USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

    From a magnum. Came off as quite backward, and will benefit from several more years. Evident oak on the powerful nose, expressed as toasted vanilla and marshmallow. The oak was less dominant on the palate, especially after some patient aeration, leaving a wine more in balance than I feared, yet not evidencing much nuance or complexity either. Companions with more of a New World frame of mind loved this, though.

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Flight 2 - Bordeaux (4 Notes)

served with braised octopus, calf's head, potatoes and leeks

  • 1990 Château La Conseillante 98 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    Such an impressive showing! A dream of a classic Pomerol, both powerful and gentle, with an expansive nose of currant and graphite giving way to a complex array of additional flavors in the mouth, most prominently some roasted meat and a subtle trace of mintiness. Good acidity, so harmonious overall. Drinking at peak, I think.

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  • 1990 Château Lafite Rothschild 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Not the most complex Bordeaux of the flight, but one that was hard to resist. Some barnyard/VA on the nose, which slowly dissipated, revealing aromas of black fruit and leather. The taste maintains a bit of that animal quality, alongside straightforward layers of dark fruits and an acidic backbone. The tannins have not softened, shortening the finish to some extent.

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  • 2003 Château Montrose 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    I wish this had been given more air, but as presented, the wine still echoed previous experiences I have enjoyed, albeit with a touch less subtlety. Aromas of ripe red fruit, licorice and chocolate. Silky mouthfeel, with lush cherry notes, some licorice and black olive, alongside ripe, delicious tannins.

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  • 1986 Château Mouton Rothschild 99 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Let me start by saying that when this was poured, I was sure my first perfect wine rating was going to be given. The nose was as explosive as it was enticing, with loads of graphite, cedar and pepper. The first sips were powerful and pure, adding tastes of soy, mocha and pastille to the tastes indicated by the aromas, all delivered in a compact, creamy manner along with a ton of structure. In fact, the wine is still quite primary and could easily require a decade or more before showing real development. After a few more minutes of its supernova-like brilliance, the wine quickly became closed and unyielding, as if to say that we mortals today can only get a glimpse of future glories (hence my withdrawal of a single point, to be held in reserve should I ever get a second chance at this beauty).

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Flight 3 - Cote-Rotie (3 Notes)

served with rabbit civet, chestnuts and black truffles

  • 1999 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde Flawed

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    I just couldn't get past the substantial VA here, which marred the underlying core of red fruit and pepper for me.

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  • 2005 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 97 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    As good a showing as one could even imagine for a wine at this early stage of its development: powerful, concentrated and deep waves of rich dark fruit, spice and tapenade, vibrant and lush. Patience will be rewarded.

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  • 1998 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque 98 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    In absolute peak form, powerful and harmonious, with a touch of caramel on the sweet, peppery nose, and plums, and a palate coating array of rich, earthy flavors: black cherries, iron tar, pastille and sweet, fine grained tannins.

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Flight 4 - Hermitage (4 Notes)

served with grouse, foie gras, figs and potatoes

  • 2003 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage 90 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    The only unflawed wine that showed poorly: earthy, inward facing and ungenerous, despite perfect storage since being bought on release. You can't win 'em all...

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  • 2003 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon 93 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    Thoroughly enjoyable but came off as somewhat atypical for the appellation. Warm nose sweet cherry, no pepper. A youthful wine, with a smooth, silky texture, juicy and dense, but if I were tasting blind, I might have called this Merlot, and given a mint thread running through the wine would have thought it Australian if someone had said this was Syrah.

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  • 2005 E. Guigal Ermitage Ex-Voto 96 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    A tremendous showing, with a floral nose of red fruit, and a full, rounded palate, seamless and irresistible. Notes of cherries, smoked meats and spice, with a creamy, expansive finish. Loved it.

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  • 1990 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle 94 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    Still powerful and fruit-forward, with tart dark fruit, bacon and some savory pepper notes. A touch medicinal, but not enough to distract.

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Flight 5 - Napa Valley (4 Notes)

served with braised short ribs and Wagyu striploin

Flight 6 - A Sauternes-Barsac (1 Note)

served with 1924 blue cheese and raisins

  • 2001 Château Climens 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    While not a perfect wine on this night, I did very much enjoy it. Pear and plum notes, some florality, sage and a touch of honey, but lacking in acid in my view, and a bit thin, texture-wise. Still, a fine, fine treat.

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Flight 7 - A Port Before Departing (1 Note)

served with assorted pastries, candies and ice cream

  • 2000 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage 93 Points

    Portugal, Douro, Porto

    I wish I'd spent more time on this, but by the time it was poured, I was quite spent myself! A powerful Port, compact and chewy, and showing some heat I thought, along with fine salinity and a slightly charred aspect I enjoyed.

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Closing

This night was not about WOTNs, or ratings at all, but rather was a fitting, "in the moment" celebration of a cumulative set of good works that I will not soon forget. Thank you, sir.

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