I Guess I Just Don’t Get It

The host for this month’s tasting selected 2005 California Cabernet Sauvignon as his theme. Like most in the group, he loves the wines and wanted to display them at what he considered full maturity. All the wines were in excellent condition and were double decanted several hours in advance.

• 2005 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Martha's Vineyard 88 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

  I like a touch of mint in my wine, but this is ridiculous, even for the eucalyptus loving Martha’s. No tannin, barely hanging together. If you can wipe the Crest off your lips, it’s halfway decent but no more.

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• 2005 BOND St. Eden 88 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  There’s some dark berry fruit in there. Sweet and ripe but simple. Decent wine but if you are a Harlan seeker it’s not showing any excitement.

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• 2005 Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard 90 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

  I like that instead of a monolithic fruit lollipop there’s a sense of dirt. Clean dirt but anything to interrupt the parade of Fruit Loops in this series is welcome. In addition, it actually improved with air.

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• 2005 Switchback Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Peterson Family Vineyard 89 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Not bad at all and by far the most modestly priced of the twelve 2005 California Cabernet Sauvignons in the tasting. There’s a tasty black licorice note and it’s not trying to wack you into submission like some of the others.

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• 2005 Merus Cabernet Sauvignon 87 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Sweet and boring, not much to say.

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• 2005 Dominus Estate 92 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  My slight wine of the night for the reds but far from a consensus of the group (I don’t think there was one). The genuine layered feel and complexity on nose and palate could have fooled me into thinking Bordeaux, not surprising considering Mr. Pétrus puts his picture on the label. The only wine tonight that tempted me into a second sip. But not exactly expressing the soul of Napa if that’s what you seek.

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• 2005 Joseph Phelps Insignia 90 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  It has good concentration but the alcohol seems even higher than the 14.5% it is. Reasonably fresh and powerful so I can understand why it is so popular.

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• 2005 Peter Michael Les Pavots 91 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley

  The black color is suitably dramatic. Intense with blackberry and current. Slight tannins give it some structure. I don’t mind drinking this.

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• 2005 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon Special Selection 88 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  On the positive side, it is deep and rich. For me though it’s just too fruity and lacking structure. While objectively it’s not a bad wine, it shows just what mature Napa wine doesn’t have, namely an iota of complexity.

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• 2005 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select 87 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District

  Another highly esteemed mature Napa Cabernet that lacks energy and distinctiveness. Drinkable of course, but why do collectors age wines like this if there is no reward for their patience?

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• 2005 Hundred Acre Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon The Ark Vineyard 88 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Ripe, showy and concentrated. Pretty good actually but doesn’t stand out in this lineup except for the price.

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• 2005 Schrader Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon RBS Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard 88 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

  My contemporaneous note only contains one word: “blah.”

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• 1946 Bodegas Toro Albala Don PX Convento Selección 94 Points

  Spain, Andalucía, Montilla-Moriles

  Exotic and very special. Thick as EVOO. Justly sweet yet not cloying. Distinct from port, Madeira or Tokaji in its combination of over ripe raisins and relatively fresh plum. Too overpowering for more than an ounce but not because of sugar, acidity or alcohol, just because of the concentration that quickly fills the tank. It seems like it could go on forever. Is this the best surviving wine of vintage 1946 from anywhere?

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Only I and one other guy, both long time Bordeaux enthusiasts, were disappointed by how these wines showed and the others who thoroughly enjoyed them thought they were reliable representations of their type. As often happens at our tastings, the dessert wine proved to be by far the most electrifying bottle. I glad we don’t all chase the same wines and I will try to keep an open mind about them. I much prefer the Syrah grape as it is interpreted in California.