Jasper Morris MW leads through each of the different Montrachet grands crus, each with its own character as decided by its place on the slope and what is going on below the ground.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Really fine and glorious. Lovely lemony poise, well balanced and all elements nicely integrated. Not too heavy. Persistent biscuity finish. Another good showing from this producer...
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
JM notes that this is one of the only producers that thinks its Bienvenues is better than its straight Batard.
Compared to wine #1 this has a richer, mealier nose, with hints of flowers, smoke and caramel, and a softer, juicier impression on the palate. Apples, salinity and a thick texture. Tasty but not that impressive - lacks sufficient elegance or tension. JM thinks this needs 3-5 years and I tend to agree.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Really perfumed! Fills the glass - and the mouth; almost tannic. Herbal nose. Lots of energy on the palate, lemony, bitter and concentrated. Finish is pretty endless.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
More oak on the nose, but so well done - exotic and alluring rather than cheap vanilla. Steely and savoury on the palate. Really nice. Everything pulling harmoniously in the same direction. Full of flavour, but dances like a butterfly. Group #2, but clear WOTN for me (and, I think, Jasper).
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Really big wine. Very deep and surprisingly mature - seems a touch oxidised but there is still energy and this impression abates with air. Loads of flavour. Cream and nuts, and bitter dry extract. Group WOTN
2015 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Really fine and glorious. Lovely lemony poise, well balanced and all elements nicely integrated. Not too heavy. Persistent biscuity finish. Another good showing from this producer...
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2015 Domaine de la Vougeraie Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
JM notes that this is one of the only producers that thinks its Bienvenues is better than its straight Batard.
Compared to wine #1 this has a richer, mealier nose, with hints of flowers, smoke and caramel, and a softer, juicier impression on the palate. Apples, salinity and a thick texture. Tasty but not that impressive - lacks sufficient elegance or tension. JM thinks this needs 3-5 years and I tend to agree.
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2014 J.M. Boillot Bâtard-Montrachet 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Really perfumed! Fills the glass - and the mouth; almost tannic. Herbal nose. Lots of energy on the palate, lemony, bitter and concentrated. Finish is pretty endless.
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2015 Philippe Colin Chevalier-Montrachet 97 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
More oak on the nose, but so well done - exotic and alluring rather than cheap vanilla. Steely and savoury on the palate. Really nice. Everything pulling harmoniously in the same direction. Full of flavour, but dances like a butterfly. Group #2, but clear WOTN for me (and, I think, Jasper).
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2015 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Really big wine. Very deep and surprisingly mature - seems a touch oxidised but there is still energy and this impression abates with air. Loads of flavour. Cream and nuts, and bitter dry extract. Group WOTN
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2005 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Again this seems a bit advanced, and quite bitter. On the turn? Popcorn and bruised apple. I like the intensity but not sure about the flavours.
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