France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Really, really nice - the last time I had this was in barrel at the domaine in 2012. Still youthful, but this is growing up to be a really nice bottle. The nose was nicely perched between Morey and Chambolle, with lifted notes of blueberries and crunchy black cherries laced with earth and warm spice, and a little lilt of florals at the sides. At points, a little touch of green herb drifted in and out; just enough to add interest to the bouquet rather than to distract. Very attractive. The palate was just lovely. I really liked the shape and structured on this, with really fine-boned, almost velvety tannins, and well-integrated but still nicely fresh acidity framing deliciously pure flavours of dark cherries and blueberries, again infused with a lovely seam of Morey spice and a little toss of earth. Perhaps on the lighter side for a Bonnes Mares, but this was certainly no push-over, with clearly Grand Cru intensity and energy to it. What stood out though was a lovely elegance and ease that is very much a hallmark of Bertheau’s best wines. Good finish too, with yummy flavours berry fruit with a touch of orange peel showing as it wound its way into a lingering back palate. This needs easily 6-8 years more before really hitting its stride, but it is such a lovely, elegant Bonnes Mares that there is no harm pouring it now.
A deliciously mature Auslese. A touch simpler than the very best examples maybe, but this was drinking delightfully well. The nose was classic Rheingau, with notes of tropical pineapple and mango, and then sweet, sticky stone fruit, these laced with a good bit of honey, and a wreath of petroleum, mineral and spice. The palate was where this shone though, with a lovely clarity and definition showing in through its flavours of peach and nectarine, ripe red apples, and more tropical pineapple notes - a veritable fruit basket. On the midpalate and beyond, there was also a nice drift of chamomile and peppermint, laced through with just the littlest bit of spice and mineral. Lacking a touch of weight and authority maybe, but this was absolutely charming and wonderfully delicious. Drinking wonderfully now, but I think this will be even better with a few more years under its belt.
2011 Domaine Bertheau (Pierre et François) Bonnes Mares 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Really, really nice - the last time I had this was in barrel at the domaine in 2012. Still youthful, but this is growing up to be a really nice bottle. The nose was nicely perched between Morey and Chambolle, with lifted notes of blueberries and crunchy black cherries laced with earth and warm spice, and a little lilt of florals at the sides. At points, a little touch of green herb drifted in and out; just enough to add interest to the bouquet rather than to distract. Very attractive. The palate was just lovely. I really liked the shape and structured on this, with really fine-boned, almost velvety tannins, and well-integrated but still nicely fresh acidity framing deliciously pure flavours of dark cherries and blueberries, again infused with a lovely seam of Morey spice and a little toss of earth. Perhaps on the lighter side for a Bonnes Mares, but this was certainly no push-over, with clearly Grand Cru intensity and energy to it. What stood out though was a lovely elegance and ease that is very much a hallmark of Bertheau’s best wines. Good finish too, with yummy flavours berry fruit with a touch of orange peel showing as it wound its way into a lingering back palate. This needs easily 6-8 years more before really hitting its stride, but it is such a lovely, elegant Bonnes Mares that there is no harm pouring it now.
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1993 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Steinberger Riesling Auslese 93 Points
Germany, Rheingau
A deliciously mature Auslese. A touch simpler than the very best examples maybe, but this was drinking delightfully well. The nose was classic Rheingau, with notes of tropical pineapple and mango, and then sweet, sticky stone fruit, these laced with a good bit of honey, and a wreath of petroleum, mineral and spice. The palate was where this shone though, with a lovely clarity and definition showing in through its flavours of peach and nectarine, ripe red apples, and more tropical pineapple notes - a veritable fruit basket. On the midpalate and beyond, there was also a nice drift of chamomile and peppermint, laced through with just the littlest bit of spice and mineral. Lacking a touch of weight and authority maybe, but this was absolutely charming and wonderfully delicious. Drinking wonderfully now, but I think this will be even better with a few more years under its belt.
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