Terroir-istes International - Italy-Piedmont-Barolo-Aldo Conterno

A chance to taste 2006, 2004 and 2001 of some of Aldo Conterno Barolo wines. Followed by our Christmas Gala dinner and some choice wines drank afterwards

• 2006 Poderi Aldo Conterno Langhe Bussiador 90 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

  It is cropped at 20 hl/ha. Mid yellow colour with quite a high tone perfume of aniseed, flint, nutmeg and sweet spices. The palate is direct and focussed with delineated flavour, racy acidity, bags of freshness. Despite a richness to the mid-palate, there is a lifted, haughty washed stone pristineness about the wine. The finish is fennel with a glacial purity and oddly a slight heat of alcohol.

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• 2006 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala 92 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  14.5% ABV. Light garnet to orange-y rim. Perfumed almost exotic nose of rose petals, fresh flowers, some red fruit, orange peel and a touch of marmite. The palate displays a soft opulence with gorgeous purity and attractive fruit elements. A Teflon tannin that is at once firm and austere yet fine-grained and taut at its early stage of life. Medium finish, perhaps a tad dilute as it trails off but has lots of time to age gracefully.

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• 2006 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Romirasco 95 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Mid ruby red. Fabulous intense pure flavours on the nose. Toffee/caramel, cocoa, black forest gateau, red cherry and black raspberry - very sexy - albeit a touch of Va that I overlooked. The palate is bigger, svelte and penetrating, the clay soils giving the crushed black cherry, 99% Lindt chocolate, sweet spices. There is a stickiness yet lushness to the texture, offset by crisp acidity and then fine, powdery tannins. Powerful, eternal finish, the wine has already superb complexity and will age effortlessly for another 20 years. Outstanding wine!

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• 2004 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Aged in Yugoslav oak. Light red garnet, brown rim. aldehyde, (aldehydic). Strawberries and cream, sweet liquorice, iron, closed then tertiary. Light dancing not the concentration of the others, red cherry. P: softer entry, ripe sour cherries, boiled sweets, ok pleasing, gravelly tannins, lacks persistence, fresh acid.

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• 2004 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello 94 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  More depth, garnet brown rim. Intense, complex, tertiary fruit, forest floor, svelte, cinnamon. P: seductive, round, rich tarry, blacker fruit, chocolate, some liquorice, high acid, poised, very complex, long. Would like more depth but feminine, mineral, long powdery tannin.

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• 2004 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Romirasco 92 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Deep garnet, brown rim, Pure clean elegant fruit. Terpene note, touch VA, old style, Concentrated tar, marmite, earth, (clay), roses perfume, bigger, fatter. P: More herbs, earthy, forest floor fruits of the forest, touch tarry, blacker fruit, crushed berries, long, thicker, lovely chocolate grainy texture, mouthfeel, sensual, lots of depth with a crushed velvet tannin.

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• 2001 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia Soprana 87 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Light garnet, brown rim. Marmite, freshness, baked up by sweetness, sweet red fruit, tertiary, truffle, forest floor, VA. P: Crisp acid, lighter body, some intensity, not so much depth. Svelte tannin, wet chalk, smart wine, lighter style, not that much length but very good. Needs more tannin?

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• 2001 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello 89 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Deeper, to rim, strong marmite, mineral edge, penetrating. P: Sensual palate, sexy wine, velvet tannins, crushed black berries, tertiary. Long finish. Doesn’t seem to have the layers on top. Acid quite high, lacks weight.

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• 2001 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala 96 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Mid depth red with orange rim. Slices of orange peel steeped in brandy. Tar, roses, Penetrating nose, layered notes, 3-D. Very complex, great acid pushes the wine along. Tarry, orange peel very fine powder tannins, mouth coating and very long. VV good, spice, balsamic, core of fruit. (Great tertiary development. sensual, scintillating.

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• 2001 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Granbussia 95 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Deep orange rim. Very complex nose. Closed?, orange peel in brandy. Marmite, touch VA. Very deep. P: hedonistic, layered, perhaps a touch tiring? Spicy, very long, balsamic note, very good but… spicy intense, alcohol there, showy.

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• NV Jean Laurent Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 89 Points

  France, Champagne

  Not much of a note but suffice to say it had that lovely brioche with filo pastry notes and flavours of apple and lemon and a fairly strident acidity. Pretty linear but enjoyable.

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• 2008 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett 90 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Again short notes but this had plenty of concentration supported by a vibrant mineral-edged acidity whilst maintaining some richness in the mid-palate. Bone dry, flavours of white peach, lime, and lemon with those classic Mosel slaty qualities. Not super complex.

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• 2002 Pierre Morey Meursault 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  A deep yellow colour, the nose is marked by floral notes and some leafy greens, a somewhat unusual bouquet for a Meursault. The initial impression is of a wall of chalk and flowers, which later evolves into more crushed rocks, fennel fronds, and an earthy component. Complex, the wine is super fresh with a laser-like acidity that centres on a scree of dry rocks and little else. Tightly wound, the wine exhibits a mineral-driven profile that might not appeal to everyone. But did to me. Loved it, even if the finish was a little blunter than expected.

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• 2004 Fossacolle Brunello di Montalcino 91 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Intense raspberry and blackberry aromas are joined by crushed black peppercorns and some cedarwood. The wine is powdery and pillow soft yet with thick, dense tannins. Brooding, it seems quite taut at this point. Finishes with crushed raspberry and some savoury element of worn leather jacket.

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• 2007 Raats Cabernet Franc 88 Points

  South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch

  A rich, bright purple-red with distinct aromas of herbs, forest flowers, mineral white pepper and blackcurrant leaves. The wine unfolds on the palate with bright, delineated fruit enhanced by a crisp, fresh, mineral-edged acidity. It lacks a little depth but has soft, approachable tannins that have a width to them and last pretty long on the palate.

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• 2005 Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese 92 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Aromas of slate, minerals, fresh lemons, crisp apples, and ripe pears.
  The palate is rich and powerful, which exudes freshness. A linear trajectory of lemons and vibrant acidity continues that narrative balanced by some glassy residual sugar. Elegant with chalky, flinty edges keeps the wine tight. Closes with some flowery notes. Perhaps a little light in the mid-palate but a smart wine.

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• 2005 Château Coutet Barsac 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

  (Served as a half bottle): the bouquet reveals tilled soil, botrytis rot, beeswax, apricot and pineapple in syrup. A creamed honey element drives through the wine, making it full, sweet and very rich. The mid-palate has some button mushroom, glycerol with botrytic spices with a very generous warming alcohol.
  Very tertiary notes play off against some exotic fruit components that give it plushness.

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• 2004 Conti Costanti Brunello di Montalcino 92 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Brief notes: tomato leaf towards sun-dried tomato, tilled soil, sour cherry and lick of vanilla. Rich and thickly textured, a grippy crushed velvet tannins and a long farewell.

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