Eight at the Fordwich Arms

The tasting menu at the Fordwich Arms lived up to its reputation...

Cheese tartlets topped with chalkstream trout, seasoned over a block of warm Himalayan pink salt
Crisp cubes of pulled lamb shoulder with mint jelly
Sourdough, onion brioche, whipped Marmite-infused bacon fat
Crab, tomato jelly, caviar and crab dashi butter

• 2019 Domaine Bruno Sorg Riesling 90 Points

  France, Alsace

  Superb aperitif/crab course wine: refreshing, stony, vibrant, whippet-lean, with plenty of grapefruit.

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Duck liver parfait, Sauternes jelly, beetroot, cherry and warm doughnuts
Monkfish, monkfish cheek beignet, Palourde clams, coco beans and fino sherry

• 2018 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Au Bout du Monde 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune

  Seemed to be really hitting its stride: lovely oak on the nose, excellent weight of fruit for a regional wine, just so moreish. Quality obvious to the 'civilians' we drank it with, as well as to those of us in the know. OK, it tailed off on the finish and wasn't exactly complex, but it's a damn fine wine - looking forward to my magnums!

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Sika venison, beetroot, blackcurrant and smoked bone marrow

• 2019 Domaine Léon Boesch Pinot Noir Les Jardins 88 Points

  France, Alsace

  Somm recommendation that didn't quite come off. A tad raw on the nose, perhaps mild Brett or just the wine being very young and made with whole clusters. Lots of crunchy fruit, a bit earthy, a bit volatile. Respect more than love.

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Truffled Baron Bigod
Tunworth
Sinodun Hill
Maida Vale
Harbourne Blue
Lincolnshire Poacher Double Barrel
Caraway and fennel crackers

• 2017 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  What an unexpected pleasure - this was just brilliant. Not sure there's much to say beyond quoting Galloni's review, which I completely agree with, and admitting that we went through several bottles of this.
  
  "In 2017, the warm, dry growing season gave the Barbaresco an extra kick of richness that fills out its frame and adds so much immediacy. Sweet red berry fruit, cinnamon, rose petal and mint are open in the glass, but it is the wine’s seductive radiance that wins the day. The 2017 is such an inviting and expressive wine. Don’t miss it!"

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Caramelised white chocolate, salted caramel and hazelnut parfait

• 2011 Carmes de Rieussec 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  No particular attention paid to this, which was less than it deserved: honeyed, surprisingly fresh, some creaminess. Very decent.

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Chocolate petit fours and coffee on the riverbank

• NV Westwell Pelegrim 91 Points

  United Kingdom, England, Kent

  Lovely local sparkler to perk us up at the end of the meal. Light on its feet, clean but not lean, fine-boned and sophisticated.

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Yes!