Classics and Curiosities

A small contingent of classmates from a WSET course this past summer reconvened for some off-rubric blind tasting/drinking in my backyard. Good times and good wines.

• NV Louise Brison Champagne La Mignonne

  France, Champagne

  A half bottle to keep us amused while other guests were inbound, this wasn't discussed much, and would have fit better after the BdB and BdesB that followed, but at $20 this was probably the QPR of the tasting, featuring an attractive combination of leesy, lemony richness on the nose, followed by ripe orchard fruits and brioche on the palate, balanced by a soft edge of acidity. The K&L shelf talker reports: "Although not labeled as such, this Champagne is all 2008... this Champagne is composed of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir, exclusively from estate grown, organic vineyards in the Aube department."

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• 2013 Franck Bonville Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Les Belles Voyes

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Brought alongside the L. Aubry as a "classic" BdB, and I concur, loving this low dosage (2.5) gem. Terrific Chardonnay character on the nose, precise citrus and green apple flavors with a long finish, would be right at home next to a vintage Ployez Jacquemart BdB or the 2014 Laherte Freres Crayeres and that's high praise. Improved with a little time open. 92-94

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• 2014 L. Aubry Fils Champagne Le Nombre d'Or Brut Campanae Veteres Vites

  France, Champagne

  Brought alongside the Franck Bonville as the 'curiosity' for including 1/4 each of Chardonnay, Petite Meslier, Pinot Blanc and Arbanne, this had a distinctly mineral profile on the nose and arguably more complexity, if less refinement, on the palate than the excellent Bonville.

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• 2019 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis Flawed

  Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Roero

  Corked oh well

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• 2020 Pax Trousseau Gris Rosé Fanucchi Wood Road Vineyard

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

  I am posting this here where most CT users have logged their bottles as a rose, but after tasting it blind with a group, it just made more sense for this to be skin-contact white, and a little more research suggests that the copper-salmon like color indicates that this is in fact a "Ramato" style wine, with a melange of delicious melon fruit offset by a touch of herbs and peach skin. Plus the all-white label from Pax, who also sells a separate, cheaper (inferior) Rose that is actually a Rose. One of my contributions to the curiosity theme, I especially liked this with the cool tenderloin+caper vinaigrette. Opened for dinner the night before, with more air on day 2 it softened into something that could be drunk by the quart. I don't see this improving in the bottle. 90-91.

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• 2019 Maison Noir Wines Pinot Noir Other People's Pinot

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley

  Brought alongside the Patricia Green 1B as the relative curiosity, served blind there was some talk of Gamay before we settled on Pinot. While I think everyone preferred the earthy complexity of the PG 1B, I'm giving this a 2nd taste the day after and it would score well against the full WSET treatment with a medium+ if not pronounced nose, plenty of crunchy red fruits like cranberry, pomegranate, strawberry, rose petal, a touch of pepper and some tannic grip on the back end providing additional length. Good QPR. 88-90

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• 2017 Patricia Green Cellars Pinot Noir Block 1B Balcombe Vineyard

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills

  Next to the OPP, less bright and cheery and far more complex, adding tea and earth to red berries, begonias and black cherry, a classy Pinot that got better after being open a little while. ~92

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• 1997 Bruno Rocca Barbaresco Rabajà

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  My WOTD because of the beguiling tertiary aromatics. Nicely mature but in no danger of fading anytime soon, the fruit wasn't quite as deep and expressive as the only comparable bottle in my tasting experience, being a Produttori 96 Rabaja. Tried again in the evening and it had gotten more tannic and cinched.

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• 2015 I Pentri Kerres Beneventano IGT

  Italy, Campania, Beneventano IGT

  Another curiosity, this came across as a clumsy fruit (and fennel) bomb surrounded by a few more classic reds, but it's a plenty decent wine. I have another 15 and 2 2016s to have as a daily drinker but if one got lost in the cellar, would it have enough acidity to make old, interesting better balanced bones? Not sure...

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• 2005 Château Vignot St. Émilion Grand Cru

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  Plummy black fruits and mocha and offering more sweetness than I'd prefer, but it's not ponderous or heavy for being a full bodied right bank Bordeaux. The most experienced Bordeaux drinker at this table thought this was on the young side still, so I'm not sure what to make of the inconsistent reports below.

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• 2008 Château Léoville Barton

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Clearly more CS than Merlot when served next to the 05 Vignot. Still on the young side with only a few tertiary notes emerging and a solid base of not-too-ripe well balanced fruit. Possibly the best red wine of the day but not my favorite. Opened a few hours before being decanted just before service, and would have benefitted from a longer decant I think.

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• 2005 Château Suduiraut

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  At the end of 4 hours of tasting, I didn't really so much as make mental notes, but this was absolutely fabulous and one of the consensus standouts. Plenty of freshness to cut against the orange marmalade, creme brulee, spicy honey, classic Sauternes all the way. 93+

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Definitely worth having to dodge the sun and the yellowjackets but it's getting to be time to upgrade the patio set for sure. Many thanks for all the generosity and wine geekery.