Magnum. Marvellous nose, beautifully developed but perfectly fresh and lively, deep minerality, candied fruit, spices, red apple and citrus, brioche and flowers; rich and vinous but very energetic palate, silky mousse, firm acidity, nutty finish with very good resonance and length. Decades ahead of it.
Disgorged 6 February 2018. Rich and very dry at the same time, yeasty complexity, much fresher than the bottle tasted in January 2020, lemon pith, flowers, only mildly oxidative, almost forbidding in its acidity and minerally intensity, amazing length with flor-like touches.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Magnum. Exceedingly rare. Wonderful and immediately appealing nose, rich but classical expression, gun flint, well judged oak, real depth and concentration, Meursault mealiness, hazelnuts; rich attack, energetic and youthful, silky texture, develops a nice buttery creaminess, quite firm bitters slightly block the flow on the palate, rich citrus fruit with a tropical edge; salty finish, outstanding length.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Leased vines of the Pernand side of the Corton hill. Youthful and tight but the nose opens up beautifully, creamy citrus, screams CC, cool and energetic, floral, precise and refined, delicately sweet new oak, tightly wound but approachable, elegant and harmonious, gentle bitters, beautifully flowing and long finish. Already attractive, will age very well.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Concentrated and brooding but really very closed, needs much more time in the glass than I could give it, highest quality low toast oak, much deeper pitch than the PYCM 2017 which accompanied it, starting to show some evolution, tangerine zest, hint of matchstick, youthful and still a bit unformed, long and powerful finish. Needs years. Score based on potential.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
Tasted blind. Offered by the restaurant. Blue fruit and a moderate charge of new oak, very youthful, cherries and rosemary, energetic and minerally, light and bright. precise, firm but very finely grained tannins, fresh and vivacious, delicately creamy, sève, flowers, Chambolle-like elegance, excellent length.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Magnum. Tasted blind. Quite frankly, a weird wine. Mature but lively appearance, nutty, beef stew, seems very mature but clears up considerably, forest floor, clearly a warm year. In the end I correctly guessed the vintage and the village, but it is a very untypical wine which reminded me of Prieuré-Roch (which makes up 10% of the blend), stemmy tannins, good length.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Marvellous black fruit and Vosne spice, cool but ripe, so expressive and generous, orange zest, beautiful freshness, quickly develops a hint of undergrowth, firm but finely grained tannins, excellent resonance and length. Does not achieve the clarity of expression of the Rousseau Clos de Beze 2014 which accompanied it.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
Mesmerising. So Rousseau, so young but so approachable, amazing elegance and finesse, so elegant and flowing, great precision in the extraction, stems, incredibly precise minerality, so transparent, superb length. Weightless intensity. Great terroir expression. Needs five years.
Tasted blind. Ripe but fresh black cherries, glossy, peppery and floral, youthful and tough, fresh and grippy tannins, relatively slender, clean and precise, hint of tar, develops a lovely creaminess, excellent resonance and length. I guessed Vérité at the very last moment. Excellent but not otustanding.
Tasted blind. Mature appearance; old Bordeaux nose, oyster shell, delicately nutty, lead pencil, fully evolved, tertiary, hint of sweetness, the acidity is still well integrated, length is good. A very good bottle.
Not decanted. Powerful but not as structured and extracted as the 2009 tasted in july 2021, polished and precise, the power is really Pétrus, the character is really Pomerol, the new oak is of the highest quality, freshness and balance are fine, the tannins need more time to integrate, the finish is quite drying. Wait.
Classic Lafite nose, fragrant, mature but fresh, spices and blackcurrants, flowers and oyster shell; slender and gentle but lively palate, lovely freshness and firm tannic grip; very good resonance and length.
Rich and meaty, cloves, beef stew, spicy, glossy black cherries, concentrated and youthful, quite rough tannins, fresh and lively finish, very good length, Lacks finesse. Butch.
This has everything. Power and finesse, precision and transparency, fragrance, amazing complexity, flawless purity, silky texture and rich but incredibly refined tannins, spices and tar and roses, dried fruits, amazing depth and elegance, slightly balsamic finish with amazing length. The essence of Barolo. Perfection. Drink now and over the next 50 years.
Delicately sweet, fresher than the previous bottle, tingling acidity, waxy and honeyed, citrus and peach, spicy slate, dry finish with Riesling skin bitters.
A blend of La Béguines with red wine from the same vineyard. Almost 100% Pinot Meunier, fermented and aged in oak, full malo. Apple, crushed red fruit, brioche, toast, stony minerality, rich yet elegant, excellent resonance and length.
2002 Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 96 Points
France, Champagne
Magnum. Marvellous nose, beautifully developed but perfectly fresh and lively, deep minerality, candied fruit, spices, red apple and citrus, brioche and flowers; rich and vinous but very energetic palate, silky mousse, firm acidity, nutty finish with very good resonance and length. Decades ahead of it.
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2006 Jacques Selosse Millésimé 95 Points
France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Disgorged 6 February 2018. Rich and very dry at the same time, yeasty complexity, much fresher than the bottle tasted in January 2020, lemon pith, flowers, only mildly oxidative, almost forbidding in its acidity and minerally intensity, amazing length with flor-like touches.
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2009 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Bouchères 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Magnum. Exceedingly rare. Wonderful and immediately appealing nose, rich but classical expression, gun flint, well judged oak, real depth and concentration, Meursault mealiness, hazelnuts; rich attack, energetic and youthful, silky texture, develops a nice buttery creaminess, quite firm bitters slightly block the flow on the palate, rich citrus fruit with a tropical edge; salty finish, outstanding length.
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2017 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Corton-Charlemagne 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Leased vines of the Pernand side of the Corton hill. Youthful and tight but the nose opens up beautifully, creamy citrus, screams CC, cool and energetic, floral, precise and refined, delicately sweet new oak, tightly wound but approachable, elegant and harmonious, gentle bitters, beautifully flowing and long finish. Already attractive, will age very well.
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2012 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne 98 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Concentrated and brooding but really very closed, needs much more time in the glass than I could give it, highest quality low toast oak, much deeper pitch than the PYCM 2017 which accompanied it, starting to show some evolution, tangerine zest, hint of matchstick, youthful and still a bit unformed, long and powerful finish. Needs years. Score based on potential.
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2017 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos de La Bussière 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
Tasted blind. Offered by the restaurant. Blue fruit and a moderate charge of new oak, very youthful, cherries and rosemary, energetic and minerally, light and bright. precise, firm but very finely grained tannins, fresh and vivacious, delicately creamy, sève, flowers, Chambolle-like elegance, excellent length.
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2009 Les Climats du Coeur Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Magnum. Tasted blind. Quite frankly, a weird wine. Mature but lively appearance, nutty, beef stew, seems very mature but clears up considerably, forest floor, clearly a warm year. In the end I correctly guessed the vintage and the village, but it is a very untypical wine which reminded me of Prieuré-Roch (which makes up 10% of the blend), stemmy tannins, good length.
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2012 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Marvellous black fruit and Vosne spice, cool but ripe, so expressive and generous, orange zest, beautiful freshness, quickly develops a hint of undergrowth, firm but finely grained tannins, excellent resonance and length. Does not achieve the clarity of expression of the Rousseau Clos de Beze 2014 which accompanied it.
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2014 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 97 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
Mesmerising. So Rousseau, so young but so approachable, amazing elegance and finesse, so elegant and flowing, great precision in the extraction, stems, incredibly precise minerality, so transparent, superb length. Weightless intensity. Great terroir expression. Needs five years.
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2014 Vérité La Muse 94 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County
Tasted blind. Ripe but fresh black cherries, glossy, peppery and floral, youthful and tough, fresh and grippy tannins, relatively slender, clean and precise, hint of tar, develops a lovely creaminess, excellent resonance and length. I guessed Vérité at the very last moment. Excellent but not otustanding.
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1976 Château Mouton Rothschild 91 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Tasted blind. Mature appearance; old Bordeaux nose, oyster shell, delicately nutty, lead pencil, fully evolved, tertiary, hint of sweetness, the acidity is still well integrated, length is good. A very good bottle.
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2011 Pétrus 95 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Not decanted. Powerful but not as structured and extracted as the 2009 tasted in july 2021, polished and precise, the power is really Pétrus, the character is really Pomerol, the new oak is of the highest quality, freshness and balance are fine, the tannins need more time to integrate, the finish is quite drying. Wait.
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1997 Château Lafite Rothschild 94 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Classic Lafite nose, fragrant, mature but fresh, spices and blackcurrants, flowers and oyster shell; slender and gentle but lively palate, lovely freshness and firm tannic grip; very good resonance and length.
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2006 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 93 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Sassicaia
Cedary and mature Cabernet, bright fruit, cranberries and red currants, fresh and slender, elegant and linear, very good length.
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2011 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia 91 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Superiore
Rich and meaty, cloves, beef stew, spicy, glossy black cherries, concentrated and youthful, quite rough tannins, fresh and lively finish, very good length, Lacks finesse. Butch.
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2013 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 100 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
This has everything. Power and finesse, precision and transparency, fragrance, amazing complexity, flawless purity, silky texture and rich but incredibly refined tannins, spices and tar and roses, dried fruits, amazing depth and elegance, slightly balsamic finish with amazing length. The essence of Barolo. Perfection. Drink now and over the next 50 years.
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2007 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett 93 Points
Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Delicately sweet, fresher than the previous bottle, tingling acidity, waxy and honeyed, citrus and peach, spicy slate, dry finish with Riesling skin bitters.
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2002 Blandy's Madeira Sercial Colheita Single Harvest 93 Points
Portugal, Madeira
Tangy and fresh, delicately sweet, candied fruit, hint of chocolate, nuts and coffee, intense and long.
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NV Jérôme Prévost La Closerie Fac-Simile 94 Points
France, Champagne
A blend of La Béguines with red wine from the same vineyard. Almost 100% Pinot Meunier, fermented and aged in oak, full malo. Apple, crushed red fruit, brioche, toast, stony minerality, rich yet elegant, excellent resonance and length.
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