Tasting in Germany during a brief COVID interlude - November/December 2021

I have been planning this trip to Germany for quite a while, and was lucky to be able to go before Omicron spread around the world like wildfire. It was mostly a Riesling trip, but I did manage to include a Spätburgunder/Pinot Noir to check on its quality.

It is so hard to find dry mature Riesling to purchase nowadays. I couldn't miss the opportunity here.

• 2004 Peter Jakob Kühn Oestricher Doosberg Riesling Großes Gewächs 94 Points

  Germany, Rheingau

  (11/19/2021)

  94pts. 2004 Peter Jakob Kuhn (Drei Trauben) Östrich Doosberg Trocken is the correct name for this bottling. I confess I opened this bottle with a bit of trepidation, since most reviews here have described a wine with a real potential of oxidation/flabbiness. But no - I had a sound bottle here, although its closure is indeed unortodox and something I'd rather not see again (leave those for beer only).
  
  This is actually an Auslese Trocken-style Riesling much in the manner of a Koehler-Ruprecht Auslese Trocken from a good vintage (which 2004 definitely was). Golden yellow, almost amber. Notes of caramel, toffee, honey, but with enough acidity to keep it fresh. I really like this style, with plenty of tertiary notes, but no discernible sweetness. Drink now if you get your hands on one of these. Great stuff!

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2019 is definitely a great Riesling vintage, and I put together a tasting with some of the top ones I could get my hands on at a place near the Black Forest in South Germany, As one can see, many were rated above 95 points - these should be in the list of every Riesling lover around the world.

• 2019 Markus Molitor Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese *** (White Capsule) 96 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  (11/20/2021)

  96pts. This was the most ethereal and purest of the three 2019 Markus Molitor Riesling Auslese *** Trocken I tasted on this flight. It's a delicate Riesling, but it is really aromatic - a true reflection of its terroir, Loads of white flowers, vanilla cream, white chocolate, avocado and lime - it mixes remarkably well sweet and dry aromas. I really like the style, the perfect balance, the weightlessness, and the supreme elegance. Great minerality too. Superb!

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• 2019 Markus Molitor Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese *** (White Capsule) 94 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  (11/20/2021)

  94(+?)pts. This is neither as high-pitched as the Markus Molitor Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese *** Trocken, nor as balanced and weightless as the Markus Molitor Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese *** Trocken. It is however a suave and subtle wine, loaded with spices and tension. There is beautiful minerality here, but it lacks the intensity of its Sonnenuhr cousin next door. I'm still not sold on Wehlener Sonnenuhr being a top vineyard for dry wines - I'd rather focus here on the sweet ones. There was also a grapefruit note at the end which I didn't appreciate, but it blew away on the second day, which made me add an extra point to my rating above. I'd hold it for 5+ years at least.

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• 2019 Markus Molitor Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese *** (White Capsule) 97 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  (11/20/2021)

  96-97pts. This was (again) my favorite from the three Markus Molitor Riesling Auslese *** Trocken which I tasted on this flight. Zeltinger Sonnenuhr in the hands of Molitor is always superb, but the much-heralded 2019 vintage add a touch of extra intensity and length to it. Spicy, really complex, with loads of green fruit and energy. This is electric on the palate, with such beautiful minerality and tension - it's really a reference point for all Moselle Rieslings. Still very young and primary, though - it might improve further with some decent cellaring. A wine one can buy blind. Wow!

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• 2019 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Großes Gewächs 93 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  (11/20/2021)

  93-94pts. This is a really nice GG for the price - it didn't look out of place being poured together with other Riesling that cost more than twice. Lots and lots of green fruit on the palate, herbal, long, refreshing, zesty, with nice balance and weightlessness, a ballerina. Clearly terroir-driven. Good minerality here, although it could use a little sweetness at the end. Very nice, and a Riesling whose cellaring will be rewarded.

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• 2019 Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier Frauenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs 92 Points

  Germany, Rheinhessen

  (11/20/2021)

  92-93pts. Although this is not a bad Riesling by any means, this was the weakest one of this flight. Austere, muted, this needs a lot of air at the moment, and even after 24, 48 and 72 hours it did not shine, although it improved somewhat. There were notes of green apple, pineapple and mint, with good minerality, balance and length, but it definitely was not helped by the excellence of the other wines on this flight. The Pettenthal from Kühling-Gillot, for exemple, which is a sister winery to Battenfeld-Spanier, costs the same and is a much more pleasant wine at the moment. Hold.

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• 2019 Kühling-Gillot Pettenthal Riesling Großes Gewächs 96 Points

  Germany, Rheinhessen

  (11/20/2021)

  96pts. This is an amazing Riesling - so pure, crystaline, elegant, truly a joy to taste! This is a reflection of its vineyard on the Roter Berg, like all great wines are. Really complex both on the nose and mouth, with notes of crushed rock, white flowers, peaches, ripe pineapple, and some vanilla and honey. It held beautifully for more than 72 hours, wich bodes well for its future. Long and layered on the palate. Drink or hold.

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• 2019 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Forster Kirchenstück Riesling 96 Points

  Germany, Pfalz

  (11/20/2021)

  96(+?)pts. I have seen some people mentioning this vineyard as Riesling's Montrachet, and although it is clearly hyperbole, I can understand some of the reasoning here. This has such an incredible power and length, it looks like it will explode on the palate and throat. Very little fruit, but loads of tension and energy. I guess tasting it at this juncture doesn't really do justice - it needs easily another 10-15 years to blossom, although it is already superb at this stage. But it was a bit overshadowed by a few other wines during the tastings I put together in Germany, which are more expressive now. For $200 it is not the best QPR around, although I'll probably buy it again because it's so good.

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• 2019 Emrich-Schönleber Halenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs 96 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  (11/20/2021)

  96-97pts. E-S Halenberg GG always shines in great vintages, and this is Exhibit A of such statement. It smells and tastes pure slate (Halenberg is blue slate if I am not mistaken), but with gorgeous notes of ripe fruit like lemon and pineapple. Can't really put the glass down - it is that captivating. Long, mouth-coating, zesty, and uterrly balanced, with power and elegance. It was great upon opening, and only improved in the following three days. Highly recommended for the price.

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• 2019 Schäfer-Fröhlich Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs 97 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  (11/20/2021)

  97pts. S-F Halenberg was the most satisfying Riesling of this 9-wine flight, and it came on top against some of the very best wines of Germany. This might sound like heresy, but I'll write it anyway: Halenberg is at least at the same level as S-F Felseneck GG in good vintages, being able to combine Felseneck's remarkable minerality and purity with an array of tropical fruit like lemon, pineapple and orange peel. Long, balanced, powerful but restrained, this is a desert island Riesling. I love it - what a wine, and a great QPR too. Drink or hold.

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This flight was put together around the three KPK Riesling GGs, since I really want to taste them side-by-side. However, the Idig and especialy the Prälat gave them a run for the money, the latter being my favorite.

• 2013 A. Christmann Konigsbacher Idig Riesling Großes Gewächs 94 Points

  Germany, Pfalz

  (11/26/2021)

  94-95pts. Idig is always a great Riesling, and 2013 is a vintage I really like, with great acidity and energy, This is a blue chip wine year after year, with this one still possessing lots of fruit but with some tertiary aromas. I didn't write detailed notes, but from memory I can remember peaches, caramel and honey together with some pineapple, which gave it good freshness. Zesty and balanced, powerful but precise, this is a great Idig, whose rating could be higher if it were just a bit longer.

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• 2014 Dr. Loosen Erdener Prälat Riesling Großes Gewächs Alte Reben Reserve 95 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  (11/26/2021)

  95(+?)pts. Bottle #927 of 2509. Erdener Prälat is a vineyard of sublime elegance and smoothness, and this wine translates its terroir in spades. This dances on its feet. Weightless, ethereal, a true ballerina. Notes of white flowers, vanllla, cream, white peach and wet stones, this is so pure and smooth I could drink it all day long, It's a great wine which will continue to develop in the next 10 + years. Love it!

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• 2015 Weingut Keller Kirchspiel Riesling Großes Gewächs 94 Points

  Germany, Rheinhessen

  (11/26/2021)

  94pts. KPK has been justifiably recognized as one of Germany's world-class wineries, but as a collateral effect the pricing on the secondary market of his GGs have gone through the roof, which makes comparing it to wines from other german wineries really difficult (so I won't digress any further).
  
  I quite liked this Kirchspiel - it is much better than the 2011 vintage of it I have tasted before, with notes of peaches, lime, sicilian lemon and flowers. It does need a lot of air though - it only shined from the second day onwards (it was drunk in 72 hours).Good energy and length, and very aromatic, but I don't like the grapefruit notes at the end. For the price I'd rather drink KPK's Hubacker GG from this vintage. Hold.

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• 2015 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs 95 Points

  Germany, Rheinhessen

  (11/26/2021)

  94-95pts. Expensive for a German Riesling at this quality point, but all KPKs are (unfortunately). However, I'd rather drink this bottling than the Kirchspiel from this vintage. Herbal, balanced, with good energy and freshness. Citric on the nose, zesty, long, with a long life ahead. I thought this would be overshadowed in this tasting by KPK's Abtserde from the 2016 vintage, but this was definitely not the case - they offer the same pleasure. Hold.

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• 2016 Weingut Keller Abts E® Riesling Großes Gewächs 95 Points

  Germany, Rheinhessen

  (11/26/2021)

  94-95(+?)pts. This lacks the mangoes and tropical fruit I have associated with Abtserde after tasting the 2009 and 2010 vintages of it. However, it has the same insane amount of tension and energy I'm accostumed in finding in this bottling, a reflection of its unique terroir. This is definitely not a top vintage for this wine, since it lacks some of the complexity and length of a 2013, for exemple, but it was a pleasure to taste. Just make sure you give it plenty of air at this moment - it only started to shine after 24hs. For the future, but I don't think it will reach great heights.

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A small break from all the Riesling my wife and I tasted. And a very nice Spätburgunder from one of Germany's top red wine producers.

• 2019 Weingut Franz Keller Achkarrer Schlossberg Spätburgunder Großes Gewächs 94 Points

  Germany, Baden

  (12/1/2021)

  94(+?)pts. 12,5% vol., remaining sugar 0,8g/l. This is a delicate, smooth Pinot Noir with a medium body and very nice length. Lots of cherries and wild berries on the palate, and still very primary (of course). This is precise, elegant and delightful, with chewy tannins and good energy. A Chambolle-Musigny from Baden. But I'd rather give it time - 5+ years at least.

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I had moved around Germany at this point of my trip, and organized this tasting in a town really close to the Belgian border. And although all wines were really good, the 2019 von Winning Ozyetra belongs to a different category. It's definitely a must-drink Riesling if you like this varietal.

• 2016 Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese trocken 95 Points

  Germany, Pfalz

  (12/2/2021)

  95(+?)pts. 12,5% vol. This Auslese Trocken from K-R rocks in great vintages, and this is no exception. Absolutely delicious, with notes of caramel, honey, lemon peel, and a touch of grapefruit in great harmony and balance. Smooth and creamy on the palate, this is a joy to taste. Mosel Fine Wines rated it 96+, and although right now I can't be so generous, it might reach such heights with more years (5+ at least) in the bottle. Wonderful QPR here. Drink or hold.

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• 2019 Wittmann Westhofener Morstein Riesling Großes Gewächs 94 Points

  Germany, Rheinhessen

  (12/2/2021)

  93-94(+?)pts. Morstein in the hands of Wittmann is a wine which takes time to fully blossom, and that's the case here. I remember tasting the 2015 a few years ago at this same stage, and although that vintage was a little better, these wines are really austere and closed so young. Only on the second day it got better, with herbal and green notes and some residual oak. As usual for this vineyard, this wine boasts loads of tension and energy - there's nothing subtle here, and it fills one's mouth very quickly. I'd hold for quite some time to wait for a very likely improvement.

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• 2019 Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Burgberg Riesling Großes Gewächs 94 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  (12/2/2021)

  94(+?)pts. Burgberg is the most prestigious dry Riesling at Schlossgut Diel, and is released a year after most other wines from this winery - a reserve bottle. This is very youthful, but oozes potential, with already great minerality and length, but little fruit. Lots of energy and very good persistence in the mouth, but it needs more time in bottle to lose some of its baby fat and gain some extra notes. It improved considerably after 24 and 48 hours, which bodes well for the future. Great wine, but hold.

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• 2019 Reichsrat Von Buhl Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Großes Gewächs 95 Points

  Germany, Pfalz

  (12/2/2021)

  95(+?)pts. Kirchenstück is a magical vineyard, and tasting great vintages here is usually a wonderful experience. And this von Bühl from Mathieu Kauffmann's last year at the winery is pure Kirchenstück - weightless with plenty of power, a ballerina with muscles. Mineral with little fruit but really long, with citrus and pineapple notes. Almost on a par with Bürklin-Wolf's Kirchenstück for half the price. And I love the new label too - a throwback to its original one, but updated. Wonderful wine!

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• 2019 von Winning Riesling Ozyetra 98 Points

  Germany, Pfalz

  (12/2/2021)

  97-98pts. Named after a top-notch caviar (Ossetra/Osetra), this is definitely the best Gutswein I've ever tasted. No, wait a second - this is probably the best white wine from anywhere I've ever tasted. It is the highest rating I have given to a white wine in the last decade here at CT. 2019 vintage in Germany + Pechstein + barrel selection = a magical experience.
  
  It has it all - great complexity, intensity, length, energy, freshness, precision, concentration, you name it. Notes of ripe pineapple, caramel, orange peel, mint, lemon, and some residual oak. Pure energy in a glass. My wife couldn't help but smile as soon as she had her first sip. Of course one can hold it for the next 15 years, but it is so delicious now you must try it if you have a case on your cellar. Brilliant!

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After tasting through 21 wines, I can really confirm 2019 is a vintage for the ages in Germany, especially regarding top-notch Riesling. Most are still very primary, but will reward long-term cellaring. And the Ozyetra is quite something - if I could only drink one white wine from now on, that would be it.