The (Temporary) Return of the Golden Weather: Autumn 2021 Visit to Central Otago

As I have said in previous notes, Valli is a great visit to get an idea of the regional variations between Gibbston, Bannockburn, Bendigo and Waitaki for a pinot noir vintage. Jen Parr is also a top winemaker and interesting to taste with.

I was keen to taste (in bottle) Jen’s 2019 pinots as I rate 2019 very highly as a Central Otago pinot noir vintage, up there with (what I consider) the other best Central pinot vintages of the decade: 2012 and 2015.

I liked Valli’s 2018 pinots but did not rate them at the absolute top level. Jen noted that the 2019 vintage, overall, was cooler and the more classic, saying she was “excited” about her 2019s. So was I …
All bottles under stelvin closures.

• 2020 Valli Riesling Waitaki

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Waitaki Valley

  Vines in three vineyards planted in 2004 and 2007. Jen noted the “edgy, cooler vintage” and the need to cellar this wine. Alcohol at 10% ABV and residual sugar a surprise as high as 22-24 gl, because it is offset by the vibrant acidity. Pale colour. Nice, breezy, citric and mineral aromatics, with a crunch of green apple. On palate, nice entry with plenty of fruit sweetness on the front palate. Clean with specks of minerality. “The 2019 – with more barrel work - was drier, whereas the 2020 can be drunk earlier”, said Jen.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2019 Valli Pinot Noir Gibbston Vineyard

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  The star of the 2019 district pinots and across all of the Central 2019s I have so far tasted. Bright ruby. Beautiful bouquet of florals, fresh red berry and cherry fruit – mainly red cherries and strawberries - with herby notes. On palate, succulent, bright, mainly red cherries and berries. Juicy with fine tannins. Very pretty. Traces of fennel (that Jen thought could be a whole bunch character, there is 25-28% whole cluster in the 2019 Gibbston). This young, still showing a touch of vanillin oak (about 30% new). Moderate alcohol (13%ABV). A brilliant wine, I thought every bit as good as – and maybe better than – the excellent 2016 Valli Gibbston. Rating: 1/4

  Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2019 Valli Pinot Noir Bannockburn Vineyard

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  From a high site at 350 metres above sea level. 2019 was a challenging vintage for this site with frost, (localised) hail, then a cyclone. Jen and her team has done well to produce this wine. Dark fruited, earthy with some damp forest floor but overall less aromatic than the other pinots in the tasting. Some whole bunch influence (here only 25%, not the usual 35%, whole bunch). In the mouth, less open. Grippy and somewhat grumpy tannins (again, 30% new oak). Not immediately attractive. Perhaps give it 2-3+ years? Rating: 4/4

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2019 Valli Pinot Noir Missy Bannockburn Vineyard

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, North Otago

  A special wine made to commemorate the passing of Jen’s beloved dog Missy. Made from a special parcel of Clone 115 vines in the corner of Valli’s Bannockburn site (originally worked by Chinese goldminers over a century ago). New oak 33%, 50% whole bunch and, like the regular Bannockburn, black fruited, but much more lifted with complex perfumes. Spices, florals and some herbal elements. On palate, relatively approachable and open, but will go the distance (10-15 years, easily). Jen said that the style was Cristom-influenced (reflecting her time there). Driven and linear yet complex. Very well balanced. Wine of the tasting.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2019 Valli Pinot Noir Bendigo Vineyard

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago Bendigo

  Deeper, darker colour than any of the other pinots. Jen noted that in this cooler vintage she used 100% whole cluster on her Abel clone vines and 55% overall. New oak 30% and alcohol 14% ABV. An attractive bouquet of black cherries and other dark fruit, spices and dried herbs with some whole bunch lift. A round mouth feel. Richly fruited. Powerful but not – this year – brooding. A volume of tannin, but its high quality, fine tannin. Quite velvety. Earthy with some iron and bright, dark fruit. More reserved and closed than the other pinots. It needs 3-4 years cellar time. One of my favourite ever Valli Bendigos. Rating: 3/4

  Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2019 Valli Pinot Noir Waitaki Vineyard

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, North Otago

  Softer ruby colour. The cooler vintage in this (already) marginal area produced “tiny berries” (said Jen, like in 2017) and a very low yield (less than 1 tonne per ha). Jen used less than 5% whole bunch, around 28% new oak and the wine is 13% ABV. Among all NZ pinots, Valli’s Waitaki – with it’s typical (very) cool climate expression – is, most vintages, one of my favourites, as it is here. A herby, red fruited and mineral nose. A “creamy and silky” mouth (as Jen said). The clean, vibrant – largely red - fruit is enhanced by savouriness and a touch of salinity. Rating: 2/4

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

Next I tasted with Blair at Felton Road. We tasted 2019s in bottle and 2020s from barrel. The two vintages are – at least for pinots – a fascinating contrast. As earlier, I rate 2019 as one of the best Felton Road pinot vintages. It has a dense, opulent, lifted, often red fruited character I love. Others may prefer 2020 which is not as immediately appealing. It’s more subdued, savoury and tending more black fruited with root vegetables, earthier and classically Burgundian. Blair compared the 2020 Pinots with the 2017s – although they are not as “angular” – and, particularly the 2008s. Across the 2020 pinots, Blair used 17-24% whole bunch.

The 2019 and 2020 Chardonnays are both good vintages but not, in my opinion, on the level of the excellent 2017s.

All bottles under stelvin closures.

• 2019 Felton Road Chardonnay Bannockburn

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Bannockburn

  A nose of ripe orchard fruit, pear and peach. In the mouth, decent tension and acidity with more of that stone and pip fruit. Less citric than in some years.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2019 Felton Road Chardonnay Block 2

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  The Block 2 is of course a step up with more clarity, citrus and spices on the bouquet. The palate is richer and fuller than you would expect from the nose. Perhaps not as profound as the 2015 and 2017, but a classic Block 2 in the making, give it 4-5 or so years.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2019 Felton Road Pinot Noir Bannockburn

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Bannockburn

  As per previous notes, this is the best Felton Road Bannockburn Pinot I can remember. Blair agreed with me about the quality of the 2019 but potentially rated his 2012 and 2014 at a similar level. He said that the late warmth before harvest in 2019 explained the quality. Perfumed and aromatic, showing red cherries and other fruit, florals and spices. Lovely texture and mouthfeel. Flavour complexity, vibrant acidity and great balance and proportion.

  Post a Comment / 3 people found this helpful, do you? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2019 Felton Road Pinot Noir Calvert

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  I know Blair now views his Calvert and Cornish Point Pinots as being on the same level as his Block 3 and 5s (and I also know of at least one American critic who regularly scores the pair above the Block wines). For Calvert, I am coming to agree, seeing the 2019 and 2020 here as close to on a par with the vintages’ Block wines. Vine age 17 years, whole bunch 25% and 30% new oak. A breezy, herby, mineral and dark cherry bouquet. In the mouth, good restraint. Lovely bright acidity and mouthfeel. River gravels, dried herbs and succulent black cherries. Long, finishing dry with some tannic grip. Preferred over the Cornish Point but not either 2019 Block wine. On the Sunday Andrew got permission to drive me around for a look at Calvert. It’s a nice vineyard with a great aspect.

  Post a Comment / 5 people found this helpful, do you? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2019 Felton Road Pinot Noir Cornish Point

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Whole bunch 23% and 30% new oak. A fuller, richer, dark cherry and plum nose than the 2019 Calvert. Spices and dried and fresh herbs. On palate, fatter and rounder, with more apparent fruit sweetness. Less minerality and apparent acidity. Also, less grippy tannins. Tannins suave and fine grained. Blair noted that with this wine “less punching down” led to “more restraint and clarity” than for, I understood, earlier Cornish Point pinots.

  Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2019 Felton Road Pinot Noir Block 3

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Compared with last year’s barrel tasting – where the 2019 Block 5 was my top wine – from bottle here the 2019 Block 3 was my wine of the tasting … still there was not a lot in it … Attractive bright ruby colour. Similar comments to my previous TNs. Intense, aromatic and floral. Spicy and red fruited with touches of animale, crushed nuts and cherries in liqueur. On palate, power and density with lift and complexity. Dark red fruit. Layered and complex yet young. Hold until 2024+. Superb.

  Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2019 Felton Road Pinot Noir Block 5

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  A step behind the Block 3. More brooding, closed and structured than the Block 3. Black fruited and more tannic, but they were fine grained tannins. More muscular and concentrated but, on the day, without the range and detail of the Block 3. Hold longer, until say 2026+

  Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2020 Felton Road Chardonnay Block 2

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Moving to a quick barrel tasting, we began with the 2020 Block 2 Chardonnay. A mineral, chalky and lemon citrus nose. Plenty of zingy acidity on palate. Showing better than the 2019 Block 2 I thought, potentially the quality to rival the excellent 2017 Block 2. Blair noted that there was more acidity in 2020 than even in 2017, in this cuvée. As I usually do, I preferred the cut and minerality of the Block 2 over the slightly riper, fuller-seeming Block 6 expression.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2020 Felton Road Chardonnay Block 6

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Quick barrel tasting, small sample. Only a little less breezy, citric acid and minerality than the 2020 Block 2. Plenty of drive and richer, fuller citric and orchard fruit to balance out the vibrant 2020 acidity.

  Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2020 Felton Road Chardonnay Bannockburn

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Bannockburn

  Quick barrel tasting, small sample. A low volume wine this year. After some sherbety artefact of racking, citrus, pears, oatmeal and wet limestone. In the mouth, a nice balance between the acidity and fruit. A lovely example of this cuvée.

  Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2020 Felton Road Pinot Noir Bannockburn

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Bannockburn

  Quick barrel tasting, small sample. Not the high-toned florals and spices and bright fruit of the 2019 equivalent. An edgier, almost Burgundian bouquet with hints of green vegetables. Earthy and dark berried. Also, dark cherries and other black fruit on palate. Savoury and earthy. Blair said the cooler, slower ripening season produced pinots – like this – that were not as fruit sweet as the ‘19s. He thought this style might appeal to more European, than to New World, palates and was excited to have these two contrasting vintages to show where the differences were due largely to different vintage weather conditions (the terroir and winemaking largely being constants).

  Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2020 Felton Road Pinot Noir Cornish Point

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Quick barrel tasting, small sample. Black cherries, blackberries and other dark fruit on bouquet. Some stony minerality. In the mouth, a bigger, chunkier pinot with more prominent, harder edged tannins. It finishes savoury, austere and long. This wine will need time, I expect, drink from 2026+.

  Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2020 Felton Road Pinot Noir Calvert

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Quick barrel tasting, small sample. For me, this cuvée is the emerging star of the Felton Road stable, now consistently on a level with the Block wines. A cooler, mineral but floral bouquet. Full on savoury, earthy and root vegetables palate. Vibrant acidity. Elegant. This year quite Burgundian in expression. Drink from say 2023+. Excellent!

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2020 Felton Road Pinot Noir Block 3

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Quick barrel tasting, small sample. Lacking the aromatic fireworks of the 2019 Block 3 but still showing nice, clean – largely red – fruit and nascent rose florals. Minerals and some tilled soil. Similar on palate. Complex, layered and savoury. Fine tannins and bright acidity. Earthy, again it makes me think of Burgundies from say Morey-St-Denis or Nuits-St-Georges.

  Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2020 Felton Road Pinot Noir Block 5

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Quick barrel tasting, small samples. The first sample showed reduction and marmite-like, chocolatey elements so Blair sampled another barrel. The second taste better, showing more sweetness and energy on palate, brighter than the Block 3. Depth and concentration with 2020 savouriness, soil and dryness. Very good!

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2009 Felton Road Chardonnay Block 2 93 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  From my cellar, bought on release. Under screwcap. Served double blind to friends knowledgeable about Burgundy and New World Chardonnay. They all picked the Block 2 as white Burgundy of about 12 years age. Smoky and citric with gravelly minerality, pears and nectarines. Also, some blanched almonds. Attractive bright acidity. Good fruit, concentration and balance. Vibrant acidity but the fruit to match. Some nice evolution. Drink over the next 10 years. At our tasting, Blair said that the 2009 was a product of a cooler vintage with good acidity and 10-15% new oak.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2012 Felton Road Pinot Noir Block 3 94 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  With the 2019 and 2015, I rate the 2012 Block 3 as the best Felton Road pinot noir of the decade. Under stelvin closure. Deep ruby with light rust at the rim. A lovely, but somewhat self-contained bouquet. Musky, spicy perfumes of glossy mainly black cherries and blackberries, dry herbs and lilac and violet florals. Drinking more openly, closer to its expected peak. Succulent dark berry and cherry fruit, framed by vibrant, focussed acidity. Beautifully proportioned and balanced. Light on its feet yet with excellent mid palate weight and volume. Seamless with spherical tannins. On the second evening more spices, with touches of cocoa and tobacco, emerged, adding greater complexity and detail. 94+

  Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No / Report Issue

A small group including Blair, Gareth and Andrew (Felton Road), Dean Shaw (Central Otago Wine Co) and Yoshi (Sato) enjoyed an excellent meal at the Bannockburn Hotel and drank:

• 2009 Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Served double blind to me. Relatively deep gold. A mealy but attractive nose of poached pears, citrus, nectarines with hints of pineapples and meadow flowers. Not at all reductive but showing a trace of sweet oak. A nice clean, fresh entry. Lemons, pears and nectarines, with that lactic element. A bit fat, lacking cut and acidity. A little too soft. Appropriately oxidised, not (at all) premoxed. Good body and length. To drink soon.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2014 Domaine de Montille Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Le Cailleret 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  My wine, served double blind. Paler colour. A fresher, more citric and precise bouquet with wet limestone and chalk. A fresher and racier entry to the palate. Fine, lemony and mineral infused. “Flint and funk”, noted Gareth, “bright fruit with a little green element” (meant as a positive). “Nice tang”, said Dean. Excellent volume and power. Finishing long, serious and bone dry.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2012 Domaine Rémi Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Le Poruzot-Dessus 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Served double blind to me. The Meursault completed our (unintentional) tour of the classic three white Burgundy villages. Bright, relatively deep gold. A creamy nose with lemons, peaches, nectarines and some apricot along with grilled almonds. In the mouth, youthful, classic white Burgundy. “The malic is handled well”, noted Dean. Clean and pure. A nice line of acidity. 2012 phenolics and typicity. Well made and balanced. However, not hugely complex or detailed. Years to go.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2001 Bernard Dugat-Py Mazis-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 96 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Served double blind. In decanting, it threw a ton of sediment. However, it could have used more than a couple of hours in a decanter. Deep, dark but vibrant colour. Beautiful, layered bouquet of spicy black fruit, florals, earth, cooked meats and funk. Also, a touch of creamy vanillin oak, but well integrated for (I assume) 100% new oak. I was interested as to how the winemakers would assess the oak handling, given that it is a long way from their approaches. The answer is that they loved this Mazis. Blair talked about “complexity, concentration and power”. Yoshi described it as “massive but focussed and elegant” and Dean “loved the elegance and vibrancy”. Large scaled but seamless and refined. Showing some pleasing olive tapenade, tarry development. The tasters guessed it as 2000 or 2005 vintages. Still a relatively tight tannin structure shows that the Dugat-Py has years ahead of it. However, drinking well now. Superb!

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2011 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Flawed

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  I am always interested to see pinot noir winemakers reactions to a Barolo like this. However, sadly, this bottle was badly corked.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2005 Domaine Michel Gros Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Clos des Réas 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  Served double blind to me. Mid garnet. A very interesting red Burg but hard to place! I only ended up picking Vosne after a long tour through Nuits-St-Georges, Morey, Pommard and other villages! A bloody and medicinal bouquet of iron shavings, blackberries, black cherries, dark plums and damp peaty soil. Those ferrous and medicinal elements carried on through to the palate with blood sausage, largely black berries and cherries and sous bois. Rich, but not sweet, fruit. Noticeably modernist in approach – it had me thinking of Benjamin Leroux – dense but elegant. A brilliant Vosne just entering its optimal drinking plateau.

  Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2011 Valli Pinot Noir Gibbston Vineyard

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  No formal note taken on the night. Bought from the wine list at a relatively pedestrian meal at the Grille. Showing quite well. Developed but, at age 10 years, now approaching the end of its life. Largely red fruited – raspberries, red cherries and some plums – with preserved berry fruits, dried and fresh herbs and damp forest floor and underbrush. Nice and savoury. Below mid weight with vibrant, not over-prominent, acidity. For drinking over the next few years.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

Returning to the Bannockburn Hotel we enjoyed an excellent tapas meal. They have one of the best wine lists in New Zealand – being of course particularly strong in Central Otago wines – so we decided on a mini-tasting of pairs of small pours of local wines.

• 2019 Ceres Chenin Blanc Inlet Vineyard

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Bannockburn

  Small pour with the Valli. A bouquet of pear, peach and some minerals showing fruit sweetness. In the mouth, some nice fruit but too sweet for me for a Chenin. A pass.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2019 Valli Pinot Gris The Real McCoy Orange Wine

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Small pour with the Ceres. Amber colour, a natural wine. A bouquet of candied orange peel and other fruits, sherry and Turkish delight. A clean mouth with vibrant acidity. Not varietal but enjoyable. Quite delicate. Some oxidised elements while, in other ways, quite primary and tight. Preferred over the Ceres.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2012 Desert Heart Seduction Pinot Noir

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Small pour with the Domain Road. A pair of wines from arguably the best Bannockburn vintage of the decade, however they did not show that well … The better wine of the two. Darker, brighter ruby colour. Lovely, classic Bannockburn perfumes from a mature pinot. Black cherries, dark florals, spices and musk. A lovely entry to the palate, pretty. However, less good on the mid palate. Sweet fruited and a little candied. It drops off quite quickly on the back palate and finishes a bit short. With food though, this was a decent, charming pinot with a bit of development.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2012 Domain Road Pinot Noir Bannockburn

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Bannockburn

  Small pour with the Desert Heart. More developed full garnet colour. A musty, earthy, funky bouquet had me wondering about brett. Ultimately I decided there was no brett on the palate, just that the wine was starting to oxidise and had gone too far. Mushroomy, earthy and funky. For me, a pass.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2015 Domaine-Thomson Pinot Noir Surveyor Thomson

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Small pour with the Burn Cottage. A clear step up to both of this pair of pinots. 2015 is another excellent Central Otago vintage. A lovely nose of spices, florals and dark fruit. On palate, black fruit with some earthy, herby complexity. Good weight, power and length. Acidity, tannins and fruit well proportioned and in balance. The second best pinot of the night after the Antipodes. To drink over the next few years.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2016 Burn Cottage Pinot Noir Burn Cottage Vineyard

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Small pour with the Domaine Thomson. For me, not far behind the Thomson. The darker colour of the pair. The blacker fruited bouquet, with a hint of blue fruit and black liquorice, with attractive dark spices. Sleek on palate with juicy, concentrated dark fruit and liquorice. Dense and structured with suave, spherical tannins. Good acidity. A little closed, no hurry needed to drink the Burn Cottage.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2017 Prophets Rock Pinot Noir Cuvée Aux Antipodes

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago Bendigo

  Bottle with the excellent Bannockburn Hotel tasting plate menu. Made by winemaker François Millet (then) of de Vogüé in Burgundy from the Bendigo fruit of Prophet’s Rock. Under cork. Deep, dark crimson. Perfumed. Lilacs, violets, dark cherries, damson plums, mocha, spices and earth. Dark fruited on palate with a suggestion of blue fruit. Seamless with ultra-fine grained tannins. Ripe and rich. Dense, powerful and mineral. Bright, focussed acidity. Potentially confusable with a Grand Cru Burgundy although the vibrant fruit on palate would probably give it away. Another excellent wine from this label. Wine of the night.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2018 Domaine-Thomson Bourgogne Mercurey Ez Chenes

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  Bottle with the excellent Bannockburn Hotel tasting plate menu. Central Otago’s Domaine Thomson is unique in NZ in producing pinot noir and chardonnay from both NZ and Burgundy. This wine from the Côte Chalonnaise. Under cork. A nice bouquet of red berries and cherries, earth spices and a sprig of mint. A similar level of quality to the Desert Heart. Enjoyable, drinking as a Mercurey Bourgogne should. Gentle and a touch sweet with a little minty greenness. Tannins a tad rustic. To drink over the next few years.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

After a great breakfast at Black Rabbit, Bannockburn – of local rabbit and mushroom pie – we headed off for the day at three tastings with Central Otago winemakers who use whole cluster: Sato Wines, Domaine Thomson and Aurum.

I am a fan of Yoshiaki and Kyoko’s Sato wines. Yoshi worked at Mt Edward in 2009 and Rockburn in 2012. In 2015 he and Kyoko (she was unavailable on the day) purchased the vineyard on Mt Pisa. It is relatively high up (340 metres above sea level, but lower than say Wanaka at around 400 metres). He likes the east-facing part of the slope, as it gives good morning sun, less in the afternoon. Unsurprisingly it is a very windy site and, as Yoshi said, frost is a “huge risk” where he is in Pisa.

The soil is mainly schist, silt and sand. Yoshi and Kyoko spent 2015 moving tonnes of rocks from the vineyard (his whiteboard “to do” list on the day still had as no 1 “pick rocks”) and planted 3.2 ha of vines from 2016. His pinot clones are 667, 115, 777, Clone 5 and Abel. His chardonnay clones include Mendoza. He has also planted gamay, chenin blanc and cabernet franc (on sandy, silty soil).

They work with minimal intervention, bio dynamically and organically (but are not certified). Minimal sulphur is used. In 2019 they built a small, state of the art winery. They use a small basket press: 1.5 tonne maximum.

He commented that his ‘21s were “looking great”.

We had a quick barrel tasting of 2020s. Yoshi commented that for Sato 2020 was a very cool year where volumes were down by up to 50%.

• 2020 Sato Gamay

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Barrel sample, small pour. A bright, raspberry bouquet. In the mouth, intense acidity but approachable and rounded with good structure (as Yoshi commented “Central Otago is all about structure”). Lovely. For June – July 2020 release.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2020 Sato Cabernet Franc

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Barrel sample, small pour. Perfumed and minty. Cedar, herbs and hay. Also mint on the palate (Yoshi said that he “looks for a bit of mint” in his francs). Dusty and a little metallic. Fully ripe though, I thought, and very good, if you like cooler vintage franc.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2020 Sato Pinot Noir

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Barrel sample, small pours. Due to low pinot noir volumes in 2020 Yoshi was not sure how he would bottle and label his 2020 pinot. We tried three samples that will become components of the finished wine. The first sample, from a large puncheon, was 100% whole bunch with a lifted, herbal and aromatic nose. On palate, it was muscular, long but elegant with both bright fruit and some savoury elements. The second taste was 100% destemmed 667 clone material (Yoshi regards 667 the best clone for the site). Attractive, spicy perfumes with elegant and pure blackberry and dark cherry in the mouth. Yoshi told us how he always wants “more elegance”. The third sample was from the bottom - the warmest part – of the vineyard, including clone 777. Yoshi noted it had been picked three weeks before the grapes in the first sample. Plush, lush, juicy and grippy and tannic on the back palate. It will be intriguing to see these components come together in the finished wine.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2020 Sato Riesling

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Barrel sample, small pour. Made from Domain Road fruit. Later picked but with minimal residual sugar. On the nose, pepper, peach, pear and bauxite. Similar orchard fruit, and some citrus, with minerals on the palate. Naturally made. Liked.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2020 Sato Chardonnay

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Barrel sample, small pour. Malo still going on, so therefore hard to assess. Only Yoshi’s second chardonnay vintage. Lively, racy acidity. Pure, clean and quite mineral and chalky. Asked to guess the alcohol, I guessed around 12.5% ABV (and was surprised by the 14.6% ABV). It seemed promising.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

Ashlyn was serving wines in Domaine Thomson’s impressive new tasting rooms below the Pisa Range. The cellar door was opened in 2020 just before COVID-19 struck, so that must have been tough for them.

Uniquely in New Zealand, Domain Thomson has vineyards – and makes wine – in both NZ (Central Otago) and Burgundy. The Lowburn vineyard in Central Otago was planted between 2000 and 2006.

The house has five vineyards in Burgundy. Since the 2013 vintage they have produced a Les Evocelles from Gevrey-Chambertin in association with traditional, non-interventionist Gevrey winemaker and vineyard owner Gerard Quivy.

In 2018 Domaine Thomson acquired two parcels of Chardonnay vines in the villages of Saint-Aubin and La Rochepot and two parcels of Pinot Noir vines in Mercurey and Mellecey.

Domaine Thomson is organic in NZ and Gevrey-Chambertin (and plans to be organic in its other Burgundian vineyards). In Central Otago at least, they are biodynamic and are a rare Central Otago winemaker that uses extensive whole cluster.

• NV Domaine-Thomson Bourgogne Cremant de Bourgogne 87 Points

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  Made just outside Champagne. 100% Chardonnay. Easy drinking. Lightly carbonised. Dryish with nice orange zest and lemon meringue pie. A nice uncomplicated lunch wine.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2019 Domaine-Thomson Saint-Aubin les Travers de Chez Edouard 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin

  Labelled “les Travers de Chez Edouard”. Vines about 40-50 years old on a stony, steep site. Pale gold. A crisp, citric bouquet with light spices and florals. Below mid weight but quite rounded. Decent acidity, a little green apple tartness. An impression of light oak (in fact, made in neutral oak). Straightforward and uncomplicated.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2020 Domaine-Thomson Pinot Noir Surveyor Thomson Rosé 89 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  A nice Rosé made from Lowburn pinot fruit by Dean Shaw. Skin exposure over three days with a third barrel fermented. Residual sugar 3 glrs. 2800 bottles made. Dark rose coloured. Attractive bouquet of strawberries, raspberries and a little lemon zest. A good quality, pinot-drinker’s Rosé. Not overly sweet. Somewhat structured and complex.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2019 Domaine-Thomson Pinot Noir Explorer 88 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  The entry level Lowburn Pinot made by Dean Shaw. Made from vines planted on the top terrace (‘Moon Block’) in 2003. New oak 33% and whole bunch 33%. Fruit driven bouquet of raspberry and red cherry, with touches of strawberry and red liquorice. A carbonic maceration Beaujolais-like impression. Darker red fruit on palate. Generous, if a little soft. For everyday drinking.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2016 Domaine-Thomson Pinot Noir Surveyor Thomson 91 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  The main label again made by Dean Shaw. Made from three lower vineyard blocks in Lowburn planted in 2000. New oak 33% and whole bunch 33%. A step up over the 2019 Explorer on bouquet with spices, black cherries, earth and barbequed meat. Like the 2019 Explorer, generous and full. Darker fruited. More serious, savoury and tannic though than the 2019 Explorer. It perhaps needs 2-3 more years? Aging potential: 7 – 10+ years?

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2019 Domaine-Thomson Bourgogne 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  From a vineyard in Melecey in the Côte Chalonnaise , made by Armand Heitz. Attractive fushcia colour. Confected seeming nose of bubble gum, raspberry and strawberry. In the mouth, light and delicate. Nuanced. Acceptable length and perfumed finish. A decent Bourgogne.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2017 Domaine-Thomson Pinot Noir Rows 1-37 92 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Rows 1-37 of the Lowburn vineyard are regarded by the Domaine as some of their best. They are a 777 clone block in front of the cellar door, protected from the prevailing wind. In 2014 and 2017 the Domaine made a 100% whole bunch reserve wine from these rows. In the warmer 2018 vintage they made a Rows 76-89 wine from the 10/5 clones planted there. In 2018 those vines ripened three weeks earlier than most of the rest of the vineyard. Only 200 cases of the 2017 Rows 1-37 made by Dean Shaw. The densest deepest colour of the wines. The most powerful bouquet as well. Spices, dark fruit, smoky barbequed venison and some bacon fat. On palate, grippy and serious. Plenty of unresolved fruit and barrel tannins. Ashlyn said that a critic had described the Rows 1-37 as “syrah in a silk shirt”. I did not agree with that. It is powerful, structured and energetic but I did not find it syrah-like. The whole bunch provides a herby lift and there is fresh acidity. The potential looks good here but give it 3-5+ years in the cellar.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2018 Aurum Chardonnay 88 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Quick tasting, small pours. Organic. Pale colour. New oak 20%, for me not overly dominating. A rich nose of peaches, nectarines and some exotic fruit elements, blanched nuts and a lick of creamy oak. Also reflecting the warm vintage, in the mouth mealy, full and lush. Stone fruits, tropical fruits and some grapefruit with almond paste. Acceptable acidity. However, for my palate, a little too rich with not enough cut and focus. For optimal drinking in the next few years.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2019 Aurum Pinot Noir Libera 88 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Quick tasting, small pours. Organic. Made from Aurum’s youngest vines – low cropping Dijon closes according to Tony of Aurum – naturally with no sulphur or other additives. Unfined and unfiltered. Lightest colour of the pinots. A funky, meaty, red fruited bouquet (on bouquet alone I did not realise it was a natural wine). On palate, unmistakably a natural wine, with a charcoal-like character. Mainly red fruited – raspberries, red plums and cranberries. Not great depth or concentration or complexity. Nor great structure. A pass for me. Tony said that the wine will cellar up to 5 years but it’s made on a “drink soon” basis.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2018 Aurum Pinot Noir 91 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Quick tasting, small pours. Organic. About 15% new oak for 6 months, then 9 months in neutral oak. The Estate pinot and seemingly a step up from the Libera. Also a vintage contrast from the warm 2018 vintage. On nose on mouth notes of dark plums, black cherries, blackberries and spices. A full, concentrated and powerful entry to the palate. Real tannic grip on the finish. Ideally give it around 2-3+ years to come together.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2017 Aurum Pinot Noir Mathilde Reserve 92 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Bannockburn

  Quick tasting, small pours. Organic. About 15% new oak for 6 months, then 9 months in neutral oak. Mainly clone 667 with around 25% whole cluster. A parcel selection from Aurum’s Te Wairere vineyard. A further step up to the single vineyard pinot. A lifted, herby whole bunch character to the Mathilde or perhaps the cooler 2017 vintage expression is a factor here? In any case a more complex bouquet of spice rack, straw, mainly black cherry and tobacco. A similar flavour profile showing greater complexity and detail than the Estate wine. Good body, structure and length but also leaner and fresher. Clean with vibrant acidity. Drink or hold.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2017 Aurum Pinot Noir Madeleine 93 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Quick tasting, small pours. Aged in French oak – none new - for a year. Whole cluster 100%, including clone 667 (a slow ripening clone, also used by Sato in whole cluster). Better again than the Mathilde. A complex bouquet of earth, brushwood, bloody sweetmeats, cherries, plums and other dark fruit, high cacao chocolate and dark spices. A pungent whole bunch character on both nose and mouth. Also savoury, dry and earthy on palate. Quite mineral with a complex flavour profile. Central Otago ripe, pure fruit meets Burgundian winemaking style. Tight tannic structure. A little closed. Long dry finish. Cellar until 2024+. WoT. An intriguing, unique NZ pinot expression. Wine of the tasting. 93+.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2006 Aurum Riesling 90 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Quick tasting, small pours. Strong turpentine, minerals and lemon zest on the bouquet, some honeycomb. Quite dry and very developed (at this age it seemed less than its 10 g/L residual sugar). Crushed granite and persistent citrus. Viscous and tactile. Drink up.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2018 Aurum Dry Riesling 89 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Quick tasting, small pours. Twenty year old vines. Waxy with limes, lemons, peaches and a touch of turpentine on the nose. Also a dash on palate, with wet slate, lemon, lime and peach. Intense, powerful and fruity. Off dry (8 g/L residual sugar) with more apparent fruit sweetness than the 2006. Hold for 2-3 years or so.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

Mike (ex-Felton Road) and Olivia (ex-Burn Cottage) have bought a part of the old Quest Farm vineyard high above Cromwell on the foothills of the Mt Pisa Range. Karl (ex-Valli, to move to Monte Cristo, a reincarnation of Ferraud’s original vineyards from the 1860-1880s) and other friends joined us for dinner at Mike and Olivia’s place.

At about 9.00 pm our cellphones came to life with messages of the latest local COVID-19 outbreak and the lockdowns and other measures taking effect from tomorrow morning. By the evening’s end, the golden weather was back on hold again …

• 2014 Two Paddocks Riesling 88 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  A gift from Dean Shaw, the winemaker. A touch of turpentine on the nose followed by peach, pear and grapefruit. In the mouth, a sweetish edge (~ RS 12 gl). A pleasant lunch wine. Nothing too complicated. Drink now.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2016 Fromm Chardonnay Clayvin Vineyard Marlborough 92 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough

  Served double blind with the Leroux by Mike. Mike said the wines were from the same vintage which I picked as 2016 based on both wines being white Burgs. A breezy nose – suggesting cooler climate chardonnay – with lemon citrus, pear and hints of cinnamon and meadow flowers. Also, touches of green fruit perhaps green apples and limes. Bright acidity to the fore on palate. Citric and malic flavours. Good volume, structure and length. Some earthy, spicy complexity. I thought it was in its optimal drinking window (and for the next 5 years or so?).

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2016 Benjamin Leroux Saint-Romain Sous le Chateau Blanc 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Romain

  Served double blind with the Fromm by Mike. I preferred this wine over the Fromm. It seemed to have the classic phenolics of a 2016 white Burgundy. A warmer, more yellow fruited nose than the Fromm. Lemon and grapefruit, yellow apple, pear and peach with some wet river boulder. In the mouth, a shade fuller, richer and riper than the Fromm, showing less green fruit. Lovely bright acidity though. Balanced and proportioned. Typically I am not a huge fan of this house, but I very much liked this wine. Should be years ahead for it.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2018 Domaine du Pélican Chardonnay Arbois 93 Points

  France, Jura, Arbois

  Served double blind with the Giant Steps by Karl. I preferred this wine over the Giant Steps. Pale gold. A lovely bouquet of rocky minerals, chamomile tea, lemons and limes and beeswax, showing floral complexity. I picked the wine as a classy Côte de Beaune but some thought it a vibrant relatively fruit-driven New World chardonnay.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2019 Giant Steps Chardonnay Ocarina Gruyere Farm Vineyard 89 Points

  Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley

  Served double blind with the Domaine du Pelican by Karl. An interesting natural wine that seemed to be a clay amphora wine. Still, clearly chardonnay. Clean, fresh and pure. Close to conventional unoaked chardonnay with green and citrus fruit. Nice mouthfeel and texture.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2011 Morey-Blanc Corton-Charlemagne 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

  My wine served double blind. Karl – who worked at Morey-Blanc around this period – very impressively picked the producer of this negociant wine, but not the vintage. It was not a stereotypical 2011 with the acidity not – or no longer – raging or even prominent. In fact the acidity was well integrated and in proportion. The deep gold colour had me worried about premox but the wine was drinking beautifully with only oxidative notes were appropriate for a 10 year old wine. Poached pear, almond paste, grapefruit juice and chalky minerals on palate. Powerful, dense and complex. Quite accessible now – no need for further cellaring but it could, of course, take it, I’m sure. Aromas of spices, honeycomb, blanched nuts, orange peel and chalk. 94+

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2008 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Valmur Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Dead on arrival. Premoxed. I have enjoyed many good bottles of 2008 Fèvre so it was disappointing to see premox emerging in a Grand Cru only 13 years from vintage. Not (yet) a Diam closure though in 2008.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2014 Camille Giroud Vosne-Romanée Les Chalandins 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée

  Served to me double blind in a pair with the Faiveley. The ruby colour a little lighter than the Faiveley. I thought the sleek but lean and austere wine might be New World but I did pick the vintage. A ripe, rich fruit forward nose of mainly dark berries and cherries with spice rack, minerals and gentle dark florals. On palate, mineral, pure and refined. With hindsight classic 2014 Burgundy, very well made (by the brilliant David Croix). Drink from now over the next 8 or so years. Worth the big score.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2010 Faiveley Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Porêts Saint-Georges 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  Served to me double blind in a pair with the Camille Giroud. The red wine of the night. A more complex and detailed bouquet of black cherries and other dark fruit with spicy, savoury, earthy, ferric and mineral elements with a nascent dark floral top note. On palate, richer and fuller than the Giroud. Also, more balanced and complete. Clearly Burgundy. On the reveal, it made sense as modernist new (post-2007) Faiveley from a superb vintage. Drink from now over the next 10+ years. Brilliant!

  Post a Comment / 2 people found this helpful, do you? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 1999 Louis Jadot Bonnes Mares Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Unfortunately, my wine was corked. It seemed to have some good fruit beneath the TCA.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2010 Domaine Denis Bachelet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Served to me non-blind. A lovely red fruited and earthy red Burgundy for its (Villages) level. Well balanced and proportioned with some funky, game meat and underbrush. Real Gevrey typicity. No apparent oak artefact. Overshadowed the Domaine Thomson (although that may have been the better vintage and bottle age).

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2016 Domaine-Thomson Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Served by me non-blind. Made by Gerard Quivy of Gevrey Chambertin from a very good Villages site – right next to 1er Champeaux - with vines around 100 years old. A good quality Villages level wine, showing intensity on the bouquet with spices and dried herbs. Earthiness, savoury nuances and some Gevrey funk on the palate. Some people thought the wine New World in style. However, I thought it had an austerity – being a little tannic and closed – that spoke of Burgundy. Good concentration but somewhat rustic tannins. Moderate 13% alcohol. Ideally, hold until 2024+.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue