Jeroboam Club Tasting: Barolo 2013
The Pump House, Bristol
Tasted Wednesday, February 16, 2022 by wineamateur with 273 views
Introduction
A top vintage and a cracking line-up of wines
Flight 1 (12 Notes)
Closing
The group's WOTNs, in order:
1. Einaudi Cannubi
2. Cogno Ravera
3. Roagna Pira
My votes went for:
1. Vajra Bricco delle Viole
2. Cogno Ravera
3. Einaudi Cannubi
But the G Rinaldi Brunate really came on strong after the vote was taken, and by the end I would maybe have had it at 1st or 2nd.
Nine wines scored in the voting, and even those that didn't had something to offer (though perhaps one or two were slightly sub-par).
So overall very encouraging in terms of the quality of the vintage, with a wide spread of wines showing exceedingly well
2013 Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis 94 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Deep plum. Austere, dark hued on the nose, spicy, dense. Plum fruit emerges with time. Tight on the palate, again rather austere, great core and backbone, a cranberry bitterness offset by sweet fruit. Held up well in the glass. Overall this was complex, classical and just plain lovely.
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2013 Azelia Barolo Bricco Fiasco 88 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Bright red. Evolved on the nose with some overripe fruit, overlaid by wood/saw dust and washed wool. Lean on the palate, quite tart, even bitter. Pinched. Overall rather disjointed, with a lot of hard edges on this occasion. The oak not yet integrated, though the structure is there and this could yet come around.
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2013 Roagna Barolo Pira 90 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Red-plum in the glass. Quite a fresh, natural nose. Roses. With some dusty, furniture polish notes too. On the palate it's quite different and distinctive. Very fruit driven, very fresh. But also quite a bitter edge. Citrus. Odd, not sure what I think of this. Is it whole cluster? It reminds me of GBB Monvigliero. Certainly impressive, and lovely too in a way.
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2013 Alessandro e Gian Natale Fantino Barolo Bussia Cascina Dardi 93 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Dark red, a little less bright than some. A lovely nose, forward, scented, lots of strawberry fruit. Unforced. On the palate, beautiful lightness and mouthfeel. Floats. Nicely balanced. (Some harder edges coming back to this later on, hence the tentative minus in the score.)
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2013 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo Gramolere 92 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Dark ruby. Furniture polish on the nose. Juicy fruit. A bit foursquare at first but opens up nicely. There's nice weight and balance on the palate and it's austere in a rather pleasing way. The tannins remain a bit rasping but it's clearly a very good wine.
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2013 Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Chiniera 89 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Quite an evolved appearance, medium red with a bit of bricking. Evolved too on the nose. It's warm and sweet with strawberries and cream, though also a somewhat metallic edge. It's pleasant enough on the palate, certainly inoffensive, but it lacks grip and falls away a bit at the finish. This could be a sub-par bottle, though not disastrously so. Or perhaps it just needs to be drunk on its own over an extended time period? It showed better when I came back to it later, so perhaps that was indeed the case.
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2013 Elio Grasso Barolo Ginestra Casa Maté 91 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
A bright light red in the glass. Delicate and lovely nose of sweet red fruits. Very nice on the palate but, like the Chiniera, seemed to lack a bit of oomph. Maybe a comparative tasting isn't the best place to drink these wine. (Later, not as impressive as earlier, hence the minus in my score.)
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2013 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera 95 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Light red in colour. Beautiful soft fruit on the nose, scented, with a delicate spice. Really quite seductive. Lovely and rounded on the palate, with perfect balance and a weightless quality that somehow seemed quite consistent with its considerable grip and energy. Pronounced acidity but well integrated. Youthful tension and concentration on the fine finish. A halfway house between classical Barolo and the more natural Roagna style. Held up very well in the glass over the evening. My and the group's #2 of 12 overall.
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2013 Poderi Luigi Einaudi Barolo Cannubi 95 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Pale red, slightly cloudy. An interesting nose with spiced apples, cassis, liquorice and washed wool. Forward, natural. Notable elegance on the palate, classical, very good typicity. Plush but not forced, though it slips a bit on the finish. Clearly has tremendous promise. The group's WOTN and my third.
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2013 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole 97 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Red-ruby. Lovely fragrance and immediacy on the nose. Very fresh, very pure, very complex, making it difficult to make out specific elements, beyond a delicate spice, menthol and tar. Great delicacy and poise on the palate, weightless, unforced, lovely. A beautiful wine in its early maturity.
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2013 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Tre Tine 92 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
60% Ravera fruit, 35% Cannubi San Lorenzo and 15% Le Coste. Deep ruby. Barnyard and bread on the nose, quite Rhone-like. Dark fruits, washed wool, cassis, raspberry. Dense and weighty on the palate, yet also weightless. Dark toned. A tad dull in the mid-palate but zingy upfront and a nice juicy finish. Overall quite rustic - is this 100%?
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2013 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate 94 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Deep red with a bit of bricking. A delicate nose with red fruits, complex spices and milk. Lovely drinking already, surprisingly open, still fresh though not as vivid as I had hoped. (Just a tad dull?) Poised and balance but lacks a bit of grip. Gritty/sandy tannins are quite discreet. Maybe just in an in-betweeny phase. Certainly, this came on very well over the course of the evening, long after our vote for WOTN, which by then it would certainly have challenged for, at least in my evaluation.
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