Easter 2022 Dinner for Madelene, Ken and Moss

Mozzarella with Blood Orange, Coriander Seed and Lavender Oil

Salmon in Cardamom Broth

Prawns with Potato Puree and Turmeric-Fennel Emulsion

Braised Leg of Lamb "Cleopatra"

Ricotta with Balckccrracnt Compote and Rhubarb

• 2006 Petaluma Croser Vintage 78 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills

  Most likely never made to be aged this long, this bottle presented as fatigued, with only subtle beading, and considerable caramel notes. Still very much defined by it predominance of Pinot Noir (63%), there is weight and a ripe aspect to the wine that would have been far more appealing in its youth.

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• 2014 Perelada Cava Stars Brut Nature 87 Points

  Spain, Cava

  Drunk after a tired Croser sparkler, this came as a welcome relief! At 8 years of age, this is still taut, fresh and defined. Very much defined by its zero dosage (and all the better for it), this is a very classy drop of wine that worked well with a Nopi recipe for Mozzarella with lavender oil and blood oranges. A cut above basic Cavas.

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• 2004 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile 91 Points

  France, Alsace

  At its peak of maturity, or in late maturity. Very dry, but the ripe nature of the wine manifests in a weight that adds richness and a slight toffee apple quality to the mineral notes. Focused and very developed in the palate and nose, but this is in no way drying out. A touch of petrol notes add complication to the apricot and lime character of the fruit. certainly outstanding, and a gorgeous match with the Jena Georges Vongerichten recipe for salmon in cardamom broth.

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• 2010 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 92 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Drinking beautifully tonight, and a stunning match with the Charlie Trotter recipe for prawns with a turmeric-fennel emulsion. Classic Beaucastel blanc, with the Roussanne manifesting as a broad, low acid, and weighty wine with floral notes, and ripe peach and nectarine notes. Still at its peak of maturity, with plenty of vibrancy (considering its character).

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• 1995 Château Gazin Pomerol 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  Absolutely stunning wine tonight, and a fabulous march to the spiced and braised lamb dish. All the more impressive for being drunk next to a Dominus from an exceptional vintage. Classic Pomerol with plummy aspects, gorgeous oak handling, with grilled bread notes and pencil shavings. There is a leanness to the palate that really came alive with food, adding brilliant definition. As ever, the balance of this wine is exquisite. Better than the Dominus with food, and certainly at a similar level to it as a drink on its own. Fabulous wine and Im sorry to see it go!

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• 1994 Dominus Estate Napanook Vineyard 96 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Drunk next to the Chateau Gazin 1995, this came across as far closer to a Pomerol in style than a Napa Cabernet! Grilled bread notes, very ripe plum skin notes, leather, and a ripeness that is expressive of a great vintage. Certainly mature - smooth, complex and harmonious, but in no way drying out. Lowish acids bring an opulence to the palate that makes this a superb wine to drink on its own. Without food, I preferred the Dominus over the Gazin, for reasons of fruit ripeness, depth of flavour, and ultimate complexity, but with food, their positions were reversed, due to the slightly brighter, leaner, and more direct nature of the Gazin, which certainly complimented the spiced and braised lamb.

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