Fix, St James, Sydney
Tasted Wednesday, June 1, 2022 by graemeg with 203 views
A staggering night of top wines from Bordeaux’s Golden 80s thanks again to the unmatched generosity of Gordon; and to such patient cellaring for thirty-plus years. I suppose there are restaurants in the world who could have served the ten of us all the wines we had tonight, but you wouldn’t have had change from fifty grand. All fills were still into the neck; a tribute to correct storage. Wines served in pairs; sequence & decanting (noted below) all determined by host Stuart upon uncorking and an initial evaluation taste. Riedel Overture glasses used. Over the last eight years we’ve had all the Bdx tonight at least once before; reading my past notes (and from memory) it’s disturbing to note such bottle variation even when provenance isn’t an issue. I guess this will be a factor at 30+ years of age, irrespective of anything else (bar more screwcaps…).
The two reds were decanted and served immediately.
Decanted and served within fifteen minutes.
Decanted for 30 minutes before serving.
Decanted about 40 minutes prior to serving.
Double decanted into the bottle about half an hour before service – no way to get enough air to these in the time available! And maybe they’re hardly the ideal thing to follow thirty-year-old first growths. But we make do.
The Valpolicella came from another table and was not decanted but already half-drunk (a bit like us!)
A legendary night of some startling wines, that’s certain. Not everything showing perfectly, but only the Ducru was clearly sub-par, so you’d take those odds with any ten bottles (and a combined age of 280 years amongst the eight Bdx… ). What a rare joy the evening was!
NV Pol Roger Champagne Brut Réserve
France, Champagne
{cork, 12.5%} [DavidM] Very attractive, slightly developing nose of yeast and bread, sourdough, maybe a hint of cheese. Still fresh though. The palate is nicely balanced with medium acid, creamy, medium-sized bubbles and medium weight, but it somehow seemed to run out of flavour just a bit quickly for me, for whatever reason. OK but a bit underwhelming.
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1986 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
{cork, 12.5%} [Gordon] I gotta say, this smelt a bit TCA-musty right from the start. It never got worse, but never cleaned up either. Soft old leather flavours, but always with a cardboard tinge. Light/medium weight, mirror-smooth in texture, somewhat scalped finish. Re-reading notes from 2018 and 2015 this seemed the least of the three, but I think this is probably at the end of its drinking window at any rate. Definitely showing sub-par tonight.
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1986 Château Gruaud Larose
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
{cork, 12.5%} [Gordon] This too was very different to notes in 2015 and 2018. Much more refined and softer; earthier, with mature leather and soil aromas. Aged currants and cigar flavours, low chalky tannins, medium acid, medium weight on the palate. Medium length, savoury and pretty finish, if a little tremulous. I suppose you can’t really talk about how a wine is ‘supposed’ to show at 35 years old, but this was well away from the last two tastings. Soggy cork, but the level was not compromised. Again, I suspect an outlier, but on this tasting the end is approaching for this wine.
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