Dinner with Melvin

Fellow CT user and Wine Pages poster melvinyeowq was in town and we arranged a dinner... which got slightly out of hand given there were only five of us.

• 2004 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Really good. Fresh and fun, with the oak nicely integrated after all these years in bottle, and no trace of oxidation. Quite an interesting nose that seemed to change in the glass, including grassy and tobacco notes. Airy on the palate, herbal, some quince and a creaminess both of flavour and texture. Didn't scream Chablis (we agreed that, blind, we'd have been in Meursault), but an excellent wine - at peak?

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• 2012 Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Ruchottes 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Opened and checked for premox on arrival, this was absolutely singing - I just had a small taste, but the nose was crisp and fresh and the palate both taut and buttery. On serving an hour or so later (in larger glasses - perhaps an issue, although it shouldn't have been) the wine didn't show as well, although still enjoyable. Just a touch of oak and spice, an attractive and pleasingly weightless mouthfeel, and plenty of bitterish yellow fruit - but no joie de vivre.

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• 2017 Ramey Chardonnay Rochioli Vineyard 92 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

  Half a bottle left-over from lunchtime. Fairly shy on the nose, with some greenish notes. Creamy, fluid and herbal, the zing of lime juice on the midpalate, and a persistent, grippy, exotically-fruited finish. Full-bodied but had plenty of acidity to maintain balance. We all enjoyed it.

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• 1999 Château Palmer 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  I just loved the nose of this wine, and as I write these notes 24 hours later it's that single attribute of the night's wines that I remember most fondly. Greenish, minty Cabernet notes on the nose, and plenty of tertiary development: truffle, beef blood, smoke. Still the vestige of tannin; actually more evident than in the 2010 alongside it, or perhaps that reflects more sophisticated winemaking 11 years later than the vintage itself. Medium-bodied and refreshing, concentrated dark berry fruit and some spice. Beautifully integrated and frankly delicious.

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• 2010 Château Palmer 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  Still some sweet oak on the black cherryish nose, which seemed heady by comparison with the less alcoholic 1999 adjacent to it. Our concern that this might be too young to enjoy evaporated on first sip: full of deep fruit, not at all monolithic, just wonderful to drink and really food-friendly. Plenty of stuffing, but the tannins were so ripe and integrated into all that fruit. Superb, with all the sexiness that I associate with Palmer.

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• 2011 Cappellano Barolo Piè Rupestris Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) 95 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Full of personality, this hot rod of a wine absolutely pushes things in terms of ripeness and general 'bigness', but definitely stayed on the right side of the line. Lots of resin and red berries on the lavish nose, balsamic and not particularly fruity on the palate - the combination really worked and it was impossible not to want to keep smelling and sipping.

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• 2011 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero 90 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  This just didn't really work tonight. Not sure what happened; can't blame the temperature, as all the other reds showed well tonight, can't blame the vintage, as we've had lots of good 2011s recently. Lots of soft red fruit, a creamy, loose texture, lacking poise or definition.

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• 1990 Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes 95 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  This was outrageously good tonight, definitely surprising me with its freshness and general vigour. Really quite dark to look at (encouraging?), with a sublime, soft, luxuriant animale nose... mmm, leather. Attractively elegant on the palate, gentle yet still crisp, and an extraordinarily long, tempting finish. Would have loved to spend the evening with it!

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• 2009 Pian dell'Orino Brunello di Montalcino 93 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Slightly sad on this wine's behalf that it came towards the end of our (overly indulgent) dinner, as it was an impressive wine in its own right. Good balance, as with the 2008 I had recently: generously-fruited, savoury, grippy, with a lift towards the bright, slightly tart finish.

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• 1999 Château Tirecul La Gravière Monbazillac Cuvée Madame 93 Points

  France, Southwest France, Dordogne, Monbazillac

  50cl bottle. Deep orange/copper colour - very attractive to look at. Spicy saffron and orange peel on the nose. Excellent on the palate, with lots of development as well as ample fresh acidity: marmalade, toffee apple, deep and elegant. Had the sense of airiness that I get more often from Tokaji than Sauternes, which was welcome at that stage of the evening.

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Sensational array of wines this evening, with an excellent hit rate of success. Very hard to pick a winner!