Marina: Out of the Ashes of Whole Fish

Tonight's small group was supposed to be our resident Greeks leading, Whole Fish at It's Grreek to Me. Unfortunately that fell apart a few days before the event. But hey, out of the ashes of the fish comes an evening on the patio at Martina. Not a bad substitute. Thanks to David for spearheading this. We ended up with a nice group of five on a warm sunny evening (BB, CV, DM, CS, KB). The food was excellent as was our server. Great food, great wine, great company and nice stroll around the lake after.

• 2015 Bérêche et Fils Champagne Premier Cru Ludes Les Beaux Regards 93 Points

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  Light gold color. Drank a glass over 30 minutes. This has one of those really leesy, earthy, musty, damp noses with dried apple, almond and brioche. The palate is full bodied and deep while retaining its vigor; showing more lemon and citrus with the apple notes giving way to gunflint and lots of chalky dry extract. Classy stuff for sure, 93+pts.

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• 2016 Domaine François Cotat Sancerre Les Monts Damnés 92 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre

  Pale gold color. Drank a glass over an hour. It's been several years since the last bottle and this has really evolved nicely. There's a very elegant presentation with ocean air, oyster shell, seashore earthiness, very mineral forward, crisp and riveting with lemon-lime and peach fuzz. 92+ to 93pts.

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• 2013 Gérard Boulay Sancerre La Comtesse 91 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre

  Light gold color. Drank a glass over an hour. Drank this in a pair with the '16 F Cotat Les Monts Damnes. This has a pleasant lime blossom and lemongrass nose, mandarin orange and Meyer lemon, kiwi, still fairly fresh with that sour powdery sweet tart sensation on the palate. There's a lot of power to the minerality and more body and depth than the Cotat; still lively but a broader presentation. They both work quite differently with food, with this going well with richer dishes. 91+ to 92pts.

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• 2008 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Last bottle, oxidized, serious bummer as these had been soooo good.

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• 2019 Vincent Dampt Chablis 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis

  Pale green gold color. PNP, drank a glass over 45 minutes. Tart lemon and lime infused, brisk with plenty of minerality and good typicity.

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• 2004 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Reserva Viña Tondonia 91 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Deep gold color. Drank a glass over an hour. This was a richer, bigger bottle for the age; baked peach, pineapple confit, apple, apple skin, lacquer on the nose. The palate offers up a mix of golden fruits, apples and ripe nectarine, citrus oil, lots of cereal notes, almond, lemon and the signature oxidative notes. Very good, nicely complex, but lacking that verve that I hope for in these. 91+, maybe 92pts.

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• 2010 Cerbaiona (Molinari) Rosso di Montalcino 92 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino

  dark red color. PNP, drank a glass over an hour. This takes RdM to a higher level. Pretty red fruits, tar and damp earth make up the nose. The palate is red fruited too, spiced red cherry, tar, and a mix of damp and dried earthiness with plumpness and depth not typically seen. Love this producer, really nice.

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