Seattle Tasting Group does 22 years of Phelps Insignia

Bellevue, WA, USA
Tasted Saturday, April 17, 2004 by Eric with 5,189 views

Introduction

Yesterday I had the good fortune to attend one of the most educational and special tastings of my life. As part of an extravagant weekend that Roy Hersh put together, the Saturday night special was a 22 year vertical of Joseph Phelps Insignia. We were also fortunate enough to have Tom Shelton (the President of Joseph Phelps Vineyards) on hand to lead us through five flights of memorable and often special wines. Thanks to both Roy and Tom for an amazing experience!

As if that weren't enough, we also assembled another 18 wines to have along with a series of dinner courses at Daniel's Steak House in Bellevue, WA. I would be lying if I didn't mention that by the 11th flight that people were getting weary. Can you say "too much of a good thing"... Thanks again Roy for another amazing experience!

Flight 1 (4 Notes)

We started off with Insignia from the 1970's. The first few vintages were actually aged in redwood barrels, and this lent a remarkably cedary character to the wines. The 1974 in particular was vibrant and stunningly good, one of the best wines of the evening!

  • 1974 Joseph Phelps Insignia 95 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    This is 94% Cabernet and 6% Merlot, aged in redwood barrels, the inaugural release of Phelps Insignia. Out of 22 vintages tasted in a vertical tasting, this was one of the clear highlights. The highly expressive nose shows cedar, mint and a lightly floral element. It reminded me of a sauna! Oh my goodness, the palate is VERY much alive, very vibrant and full of fruit. Long, pure and sweet, this is a delicious and elegant wine, what a treat!

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  • 1978 Joseph Phelps Insignia 88 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    This is a blend of 50% Cabernet, 30% Merlot, and 20% Cab Franc. The note shows raw meat and mint. If my notes are correct, this is the first vintage of Insignia to see French oak instead of redwood barrels. At first this was minty and lively on the palate, but it dried out very quickly and showed a lot less fruit than the 1974.

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  • 1977 Joseph Phelps Insignia 89 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Wow, this one shows a lot more Brett than other Phelps of the 1970's, apparently due to somewhat dirty barrels. The nose is stinky with cabbage, cedar and very distinct barnyard that takes over with more air. However, the palate is much better than the nose. The finish is drying and somewhat astringent.

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  • 1979 Joseph Phelps Insignia 90 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    70% Cab and 30% Merlot. Very youthful color. The nose on this is very expressive with cedar, cocoa, and cassis. The palate shows more structure than the other 1970's Insignias. The palate is stunning and vibrant with cooling mint. However, there are somewhat coarse tannins on the finish which holds this back a bit.

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Flight 2 (5 Notes)

The 1980's wines were a little weaker with strong showings from the 1984 and 1987. However, the 1985 and 1986 were our only poor bottles of the evening. And while there was a lot to admire about the 1989, it was not quite in the same league with the other wines.

  • 1987 Joseph Phelps Insignia 90 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    70% Cab Sauv, 20% Cab Franc and 10% Merlot. The nose shows iron and cedar. On the palate this has a nice attack of sweet cassis and finishes with a hint of astrignency but also beautiful, dusty tannins that really coat your palate. Surprisingly silky, this definitely had that iron fist in a velvet glove character.

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  • 1984 Joseph Phelps Insignia 92 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    60% Cab Sauv, 30% Merlot and 10% Cab Franc. This is very minty on the nose with a hint of Brett. The vibrant palate shows a blast of mint and very pretty sweetness. The finish is slightly drying, but this is a particularly elegant Insignia.

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  • 1985 Joseph Phelps Insignia 87 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    60% Cab Sauv, 25% Merlot and 15% Cab Franc. The consensus was that this bottle was somewhat oxidized. I thought it was drinkable but somewhat off with vanilla and a slightly roasted character on the nose. The palate showed less purity than the other Insignia with a 'muddy' feel.

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  • 1986 Joseph Phelps Insignia

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    60% Cab Sauv, 30% Merlot, 10% Cab Franc. This bottle was clearly oxidized showing vinegar and dill on the nose. The palate was shot. Not rated.

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  • 1989 Joseph Phelps Insignia 89 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    80% Cab Sauv, 10% Merlot, and 10% Cab Franc. Really impressive color. Post-phylloxera, this shows a very different personality from the earlier Insignia with no more mint on the nose, now showing more cranberry. On the palate this shows a lot of structure and tart acidity, cherries and cranberry, much more red and citric. This wine seemed a bit underripe.

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Flight 3 (5 Notes)

The early 1990's were a bit more hit and miss (with the 1998 thrown in as well), but the 1991 was an absolute home run of a wine!

  • 1991 Joseph Phelps Insignia 94 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    This wine shows a knockout nose of cassis, mint, mineral and gunflint. Wow, this is quite powerful with incredible structure and balance, just impeccable, a truly beautiful wine.

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  • 1992 Joseph Phelps Insignia 91 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    The nose was a little more earthy with black cherry. The palate is beautifully soft and approachable with lots of plum. This is somewhat tighter and less giving than the 1991.

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  • 1998 Joseph Phelps Insignia 88 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    The somewhat high-toned nose shows bell pepper, cola, vanilla and caramel. On the palate this is quite herbal and fairly tight. It is approachable but a bit simple and not really at the same level as other modern Insignia.

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  • 1993 Joseph Phelps Insignia 89 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    The nose is pretty with mint and black cherry. The medium weight palate is fairly vibrant with a tight finish. A number of folks thought this was slightly corked, but I didn't detect it.

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  • 1990 Joseph Phelps Insignia 87 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Iron and cranberry on the nose. Wow, this was quite less ripe than other vintages, tart. It does show reasonable structure, but the fruit is unimpressive.

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Flight 4 (4 Notes)

The mid 1990's was clearly the strongest and most consistent flight. These wines went from strength to strength, yet each showed very differently and was as much a reflection of the vintage as anything else. Everyone fell in love with these wines!

  • 1994 Joseph Phelps Insignia 96 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    This was my favorite Insignia. The nose is soaring and piercing showing mint, plum, and gunflint. The palate is fat, plummy, deeply layered and luscious. This is really dark in character, very long, yet so balanced and poised. This just screams Napa, I LOVE this wine!

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  • 1996 Joseph Phelps Insignia 94 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    The nose on this is somewhat high-toned with violet. Wow, this has a lush palate, really pretty and very piercing and high-pitched with a chambord like element, very much more like a Quilceda than an Insignia. Lovely!

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  • 1997 Joseph Phelps Insignia 95 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    The nose shows oak and chocolate. Oh my goodness, the palate is so ripe, almost clumsy like a puppy, but it pulls it off. This shows chocolate and very ripe cassis. This is just so lush!

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  • 1995 Joseph Phelps Insignia 95 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    On the nose there is a hint of VA with a very mineral rich character. Wow, the palate is very pure with screaming cassis and a very black, brooding element behind the fruit. This is very nicely balanced with stunning, tooth-coating tannins, so dusty, silky and persistent. Amidst the 1994, 1996 and 1997 this stood out for having the best structure.

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Flight 5 (4 Notes)

The turn of the century also bodes well for Phelps. The 2000 was the only weak wine, and even it was very respectable. I was quite surprised with the strong showing of the 1999, and the 2001 was ethereal and will seemingly be the best Insignia ever with time. (I scored it the same as the 1994 which is my current favorite.)

  • 1999 Joseph Phelps Insignia 95 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    This has a very pretty nose of cassis, mineral and a little gunpowder. This has stunning balance, almost unreal. I was really very surprised and impressed by this wine and the poise it showed, as I have read so much about the 1999 vintage being overly tannic. Not this wine!

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  • 2000 Joseph Phelps Insignia 90 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    This is somewhat herbal with some caramel. The wood really lays on top of this wine right now. It does have very nice cassis with lovely structure, but the finish is somewhat astringent. This is not integrated like the 1999 or the 2001.

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  • 2001 Joseph Phelps Insignia 96 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Oh my God! The cassis, mineral and earth here are amazing. There is so much depth to the nose. On the palate this is vibrant and structured, very complex and expressive for such a young wine, surprisingly approachable. This is going to be a legend, perhaps the finest Insignia ever.

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  • 2002 Joseph Phelps Insignia 93 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    This was a cask sample. This still has lots of wood showing with a sweet oaky character and lots of raspberry on the nose. On the palate this shows crushing, tannic depth. This needs a lot of time to knit, but the raw materials makes for an exciting wine. 93++

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Flight 6 (3 Notes)

Wow, with 22 vintages of Insignia behind us we moved onto dinner and a dizzying series of wines. We started with a couple of gorgeous bubblies and a lovely White Burg.

Flight 7 (4 Notes)

Next we moved to four enchanting Châteauneuf-du-Pape. I am a huge lover of the Southern Rhone, although I found these wines in particular a bit tough to appreciate. After so much sweet cassis, the earthiness and dry, papery texture of the Grenache took some time for ones palate to adjust to. Still, there was a lot to like here.

Flight 8 (3 Notes)

Next we moved to a few wines in a California vein including my wine of the night in the form of the 1996 Abreu.

  • 1996 Abreu Cabernet Sauvignon Madrona Ranch 97 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    The lavish nose shows mint and caramel, explosive. On the palate this is deeply concentrated. OMG, what a simply unreal expression of Napa Cabernet with mind-blowing cassis. My favorite wine of the night that rendered me speechless.

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  • 1992 Cain Vineyard & Winery Cain Five 87 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    The nose is spicy with bell pepper, quite herbal in character. On the palate this is more subtle and somewhat angular and lean, showing a bit of alcohol. I did mote that the balance was nice, and this was a pleasant wine in tough company tonight.

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  • 1995 Château Monbousquet 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    Minerals, graphite and ripe fruit on the nose. The palate is very structured and mineral driven. The finish is drying and still tannic. This is a nice Bordeaux.

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Flight 9 (4 Notes)

We followed with a lovely flight of Bordeaux highlighted by the structured but beautiful 1986 Lynch Bages.

  • 1986 Château Lynch-Bages 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    The nose shows cigar box and tobacco. On the palate this is quite tight and tannic with sweet cranberry. This is pretty restrained right now and still needs a long time to resolve, but it is fairly pretty.

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  • 1990 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    The nose shows vanilla and violet. On the palate this screaming of raspberry and mineral with massive structure. This is very hard to approach right now, still a baby. Lots of potential here.

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  • 1996 Château Léoville Barton 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Very black in color and personality. Wow, this wine rocks, but it is still stunningly tight (to be expected) with cranberry, cherry and mineral. There is so much more for thus wine to give yet, but it is locked away by crushing structure. Awesome, this will only get better.

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  • 1998 Château Canon-la-Gaffelière 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    The nose shows ripe raspberry but with a weird citric edge. On the palate this is very plush with load of structure, but right now it shows a lot of acidity with an odd hint of orange juice. A little strange.

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Flight 10 (2 Notes)

We finished up the dry reds with one from Australia and one from South Africa.

  • 1994 d'Arenberg The Ironstone Pressings 86 Points

    Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale

    Very sweet and approachable with a fruit-pumch personality, almost like alcoholic HI-C. On its own this might be OK, but after a night of elegant wines this clashes terribly and is too sweet and cloying.

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  • 1997 Kanonkop Paul Sauer

    South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch, Simonsberg-Stellenbosch

    70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot. Tart cranberry, underripe fruit. Ouch, this is a very rough transition from all of the other wines. Not rated.

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Flight 11 (2 Notes)

Finally, we capped the evening off with a fabulous Zind-Humbrecht and a surprisingly nice dessert wine from Phelps.

Closing

All in all, this was an ethereal evening of stunning wines. Thanks again Roy!

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