7 Hours In Napa: VHR; Roy Piper; Spottswoode; & MACDONALD

Napa, CA
Tasted Tuesday, February 28, 2023 by JustBreathe680 with 277 views

Introduction

This is a continuation of The Great Escape; 3/8/22-3/9/22 Tasting Story with my dad last year. He enjoyed last year's trip so much, he wanted to do it again with my brother and brother-in-law but this time we only had a window of 1 day during our family vacation in Orange County, CA. I agreed to put the trip together, but I wanted the tastings with the wineries that I was unable to coordinate with last year and luckily everything fell into place on the calendar to make it happen but not without its obstacles.

On 2/24/23, Napa experienced a rare winter storm dumping up to 12 inches of snow in the mountains of wine country and leaving many without power.

On 2/27/23, I spent 7 hours in the ER for severe abdominal pain, ultimately determined to be from an adverse medication reaction coupled with possible food poisoning. At 1:00PM, was going to cancel the Napa trip but my wife was the voice of reason and told me not to do anything until I spoke with the doctor around 4:00PM. At the time of discharge from the ER, I was given the green light to go to Napa and even consume a few glasses of wine!

The morning of the trip, it was cold, raining and foggy in San Fransisco. Surprisingly, our 7:00AM flight took off on time without a hitch. I was expecting to be grounded for several hours until the fog lifted at SFO and at that point the trip would have been canceled due to the tight timelines.

We had a driver pick us up at SFO and drive straight to Oakville but the adverse weather set us back 30 minutes, which was able to be made up and not disrupt the day!

Flight 1 - VHR (10:30-12:00) (2 Notes)

We landed at SFO just prior 8:30 in the fog and rain. We were promptly met by our driver who drove us straight to Heather and Bruce Phillips' home at VHR. The tasting was scheduled for 10:00 but due to the inclement weather we were 30 minutes late. Bruce had to cancel meeting us the night before but his wife, Heather, greeted us when we arrived.

Their house is absolutely beautiful and overlooks the vineyard, bumping up to the back of Block 6. We were greeted by Heather with a glass of Champagne to walk the property and learn about the Phillips' family history with VHR. The skies re-opened prompting us to retreat indoors where we chatted in a beautiful white sitting room while finishing our champagne and then proceeded to a dining room table for the main event. The wines were over the top in taste and quality, which pained me even more when I had to request a spit/dump bucket after a few sips of each for fear of pushing my physical limits from the day prior too early in the trip.

  • 2019 VHR Cabernet Sauvignon Vine Hill Ranch 98 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

    This is my 200th Cellar Tracker review and what a memorable wine to review!

    7 hours in Napa and VHR was our first stop. Bruce was unavailable but Heather welcomed my group into their beautiful home in Oakville. We were greeted with a glass of 2014 Pierre Gimonnet Champagne Premier Cru Oenophile Non Dose Brut Nature BdB to walk the property. Unfortunately, it was cold and raining off and on and we were unable to spend much time outside looking at the vineyard so we went back into the house and sat at a long table with a charcuterie board and glasses of the 2019 and 2020 VHR poured for a great side by side tasting.

    The 2019 VHR was decanted for approximately 60 minutes prior to our arrival. The nose was intoxicating. The aromas were of fresh cut flowers, dark fruits and brown spices. It was a wine I could have smelled all day. The palate matched the aromas and was as good or better than the nose. There was an initial rush of dark cherry, blueberry, and blackberry. The fruit is primary and plush. Underneath the fruit, there were hints of cocoa and suble earth tones. There was good acidity and medium (+) tannins. The wine is complex and full-bodied. It is not overly concentrated.

    The wine needs time to shed the baby fat but after some mid-term cellaring and integration this wine has the ability to reach rarified air. The wine is absolutely beautiful and definitely the wine of the day!

    This is one heck of a wine! My score is 97-99+

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  • 2020 VHR Cabernet Sauvignon Vine Hill Ranch 94 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

    7 hours in Napa and VHR was our first stop. Bruce was unavailable but Heather welcomed my group into their beautiful home in Oakville. We were greeted with a glass of 2014 Pierre Gimonnet Champagne Premier Cru Oenophile Non Dose Brut Nature BdB to walk the property. Unfortunately, it was cold and raining off and on and we were unable to spend much time outside looking at the vineyard so we we back into the house and sat at a long table with a charcuterie board with the 2019 and 2020 VHR poured for a great side by side tasting.

    The 2020 was decanted right before we arrived and the 2019 was decanted 60 minutes prior to arrival. The 2020 had less than 60 minutes of air prior to our tasting. The nose and palate was slightly muted. The fruit is primarily darker blue/black fuits with hints of spice. There was a strong tannin presence. However, the wine does have structure and will most likely show more in another year or two of cellaring. This is a well made wine in a very difficult vintage.

    The score maybe on the lower side due to being poured side by side with an exceptional 2019 and almost any wine would pale in comparison to the 2019 showing. My score is 93-95, 93 at first sip but it showed a little bit more complexity while we were sitting at the table and it has the possibility of 95 points with short-term cellaring. However, Im not sure what the 2020 vintage as a whole has in store for the long term. If you decide to try one within the next year, I recommend a long DD.

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Flight 2 - Lunch at Cook St. Helena with Roy Piper (12:15-1:25) (1 Note)

Roy is the only repeat visit from the year prior. Our dinner with him was so enjoyable and informative last year, I had to reach out to him again to see if he wanted to join our group for lunch. He chose this amazing and quant restaurant close by our next tasting at Spottswoode.

The lunch was planned for 90 minutes but we had to unfortunately condense it to 60 minutes due to our late start at VHR. Roy was so accommodating, he was waiting for us at the table and had appetizers waiting for us when we arrived.

I love picking Roy's brain and learning all of the happenings in Napa. He shared with us the 2019 60th Anniv wine and explained the picture of his parents on the label. In addition to discussing his wines and Napa wines in general, he enlightened us about his new non-winemaking endeavor involving Bordeaux. He will be releasing an update to his mailing list with exciting details of his new project in the upcoming months. Unfortunately, we only had an hour with Roy but he packed a lot into the time he had with us!

  • 2019 Roy Piper Cabernet Sauvignon 60th Anniversary 95 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    7 hours in Napa with a quick lunch with Roy Piper at Cook in St. Helena.

    Roy brought the 2019 60th Anniversary Cabernet to share with my group. The wine is 1/3 Moulds Vineyard, 1/3 Houyi Vineyard, and 1/3 Greer Vineyard. There were only 3 barrels made of this wine. The wine was not prepared in advance and was a PnP at the table.

    The aromas were of red, blue and black fruits with some hints of spice. The palate was of red cherry, blueberry, blackberry and hints of acai berry. There were undertones of cocoa and baking spices. The acidity was medium. There were fine grained tannins with a medium-full body. The mouthfeel was silky smooth. The wine is elegant and polished. There are no hard edges.

    The wine can be drank in the short-term with a good DD or a short decant but I think it will integrate a little more in the next year or 2. If you have a couple, this is a good one to try young while waiting on your other Roy Piper's to slumber a little longer.

    My score is a 94.5 with upside from short-term to mid-term cellaring.

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Flight 3 - Spottswoode (1:30-3:00) (4 Notes)

This was the most formal of the tastings and not as intimate as the 3 other tastings. Our host, Virginia, was very hospitable and knowledgeable but if we didn't slow things down and ask questions, we could have been out of the tasting in 30-45 minutes. Fortunately, the skies relented for a few moments making it possible for us to tour the wine making facility, which made the stop worthwhile.

  • 2021 Spottswoode Sauvignon Blanc 92 Points

    USA, California, North Coast

    7 hours in Napa and tasted at the Spottswoode Estate, hosted by Virginia.The stems used for the tasting were Jancis Robinson x Richard Brendon Wine Glasses (JRxRB). The tasting included:

    2021 Sauvignon Blanc
    2019 Lyndenhurst Cabernet Sauvignon
    2019 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
    2020 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

    Virginia showed us the barrel room and the Sauv Blanc is prepared in steel vats, concrete eggs and oak barrels.

    The wine was pleasantly aromatic. The nose was floral with hints of cut grass and bell pepper. The palate immediately hits you with tropocal fruits, primarily grapefruit, but there were herbaceous and spice undertones. There was high acidity. The wine was medium-light with a slight creaminess. It was crisp and a joy to drink!

    My score is 92+ and may become more balanced and integrated in another year or two with the grapefruit fading a little and the additional fruits of honeydew and white peach making more of a presence.

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  • 2019 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon Lyndenhurst 93 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena

    7 hours in Napa and tasted at the Spottswoode Estate, hosted by Virginia.The stems used for the tasting were Jancis Robinson x Richard Brendon Wine Glasses (JRxRB). The tasting included:

    2021 Sauvignon Blanc
    2019 Lyndenhurst Cabernet Sauvignon
    2019 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
    2020 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

    The wine is a blend of predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon with small amounts of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Malbec. There was no special preparation for extended air other than the bottle being opened for a tasting prior to us.

    The wine had aromas of fresh cut flowers, red, blue and black fruit, brown spices, and a touch of cigar box. The palate matched the aromas of red berries, blueberry, brown spices, and earth. The wine was medium bodied. It was a pleasure to drink but does not have the same level of complexity as the Estate wine.

    The wine is drinking well now and may benefit by gaining a little more weight and become more balanced with some short-term cellaring. It's a nice wine to drink now or in the near future while waiting for the Estate Cabernet to enter its drinking window.

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  • 2019 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon Estate 95 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena

    7 hours in Napa and tasted at the Spottswoode Estate, hosted by Virginia.The stems used for the tasting were Jancis Robinson x Richard Brendon Wine Glasses (JRxRB). The tasting included:

    2021 Sauvignon Blanc
    2019 Lyndenhurst Cabernet Sauvignon
    2019 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
    2020 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

    The wine was not decanted and was opened sometime earlier in the day and poured into our glasses shortly before we arrived.

    The wine is a blend of approximately 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc with the remainder of Petit Verdot. There were floral aromas with red and blue fruits peaking through and hints of cedar cigar box. The 2019 was more aromatic than the 2020 at this stage. The palate was of red and black cherries, slight blue/black fruit, brown spices, minerality and cocoa. The body was medium to medium-full with fine grained tannins. It is not overly concentrated.

    The wine maybe starting to shutdown a little or it required a long DD followed by a regular decant to truly strut its stuff. I'm wondering if the wine may gain a little more weight and integration with extended time in the cellar. It's a very well made wine with great potential but it was missing the complexity I've experienced with the 2012 and the 2013 Spottswoode Estates.

    My score during this tasting is 94.5 but there is tremendous upside with medium to long-term cellaring.

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  • 2020 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon Estate 95 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena

    7 hours in Napa and tasted at the Spottswoode Estate, hosted by Virginia.The stems used for the tasting were Jancis Robinson x Richard Brendon Wine Glasses (JRxRB). The tasting included:

    2021 Sauvignon Blanc
    2019 Lyndenhurst Cabernet Sauvignon
    2019 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
    2020 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

    The wine was not decanted and was opened sometime earlier in the day and poured into our glasses shortly before we arrived. I had a second pour to walk with on our tour that was a Corvin pour. I thought the Corvin pour came across fresher and more aromatic than the wine that was sitting in the glass prior to our arrival.

    The wine is made up of primarily Cabernet Sauvignon with 3% Petit Verdot and 0.5% Cabernet Franc. The wine came across fresh with floral aromas and red and black fruits, cigar box, hints of spice and minerality. The palate was primary with beautiful fruit of black cherry, blueberry, blackberry, minerality and baking spices. There was good medium acidity, medium tannins and a velvety smooth finish. The body was medium-full. It was an elegant wine.

    I enjoyed this wine slightly more than the 2019 and the Corvin pour was better than the prepared pour before we arrived. It was one of the best 2020s I've tasted to date (edged out only by 2020 MACDONALD) and it's the only magnum I purchased from this difficult vintage, outside of a 2020 Ridge Monte Bello future I purchased 2 years ago as part of my annual allocation that I have concerns about today, The tannins were not overbearing like I've experienced on some other 2020s. I have no idea where this will end up in 1, 2 or 3 decades but it's definitely a promising effort for a historically age worthy wine.

    My score is 94-96+ with maybe great heights if the concerns of the 2020 vintage don't creep in decades down the road.

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Flight 4 - MACDONALD (3:30-5:30) (1 Note)

Alex met us outside of the old family home on the vineyard. He asked if we okay walking the vineyard in the freezing rain. Some of us were prepared for inclement weather whereas others were not as prepared but how can you turn down a walk with Alex, the most knowledgeable To Kalon historian, on arguably the most famed vineyard in Napa! On our walk we were encountered by a flock of sheep. Alex told us this practice was new to the vineyard and they were herded from Opus One the week prior. On this walk, he explained the difference in their vines, highlighting the blocks of relatively old cabernet vines, at least by Napa's standards. Finally, he discussed the difficulties the Napa wineries faced with the 2020 growing season and how/why they made the decision to bottle a 2020 vintage.

  • 2020 MacDonald Cabernet Sauvignon 96 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

    The fourth and final tasting of our 7 hours in Napa was with Alex MacDonald. Spending an afternoon with Alex is more of a history lesson than a tasting and it is always a highlight of my trips whenever we are able to coordinate a visit.

    The history lesson started out with walking the perimeter of the MACDONALD portion of the To Kalon Vineyard in the cold and pouring rain, which the vineyard was in the process being manicured by sheep! The brisk walk was followed by the tasting in a family home that Graeme previously lived in on the vineyard property.

    The wine selected was in fact the 2020 vintage which was double decanted (DD) at 5:30AM and then poured into a decanted 1 hour prior to our tasting at 3:30PM. The wine is made up of only the oldest vines on the MACDONALD Vineyard of approximately 49 and 69 years-old, not typical of recent vintages.The 69 year-old Cabernet vines were planted by Alex and Graeme's great grandparents and are some of the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vines in Napa. The limited selection of vines resulted in a considerable reduction in case production for this vintage.

    I only took brief notes, as we were deep in conversation during the tasting. My initial impression was that the wine was primarily showing black fruits with brown spices and good tannic grip. It's very young and a little tight but has good complexity. It's a full-bodied wine.

    This wine was the best 2020 I've had but it will take some time to unwind. Alex mentioned that the wine went through several rounds of testing with different laboratories that specialize in measuring the levels of smoke taint and all results were consistent with no detectable levels of smoke.

    I'm not sure if this is one I'll age for a decade(+) but if I'm afforded an opportunity to purchase a couple, I may choose to consume one in the short-term and a second in the 7-12 year window, just to hedge my bets from any potential issues presented by this difficult vintage.

    Bravo to the MacDonald brothers for making such a beautiful wine in such a difficult vintage. If you are lucky enough to be on this allocation list, buy with confidence but the vintage presented many challenges and it may fall just a tad bit short of some of their greatest vintages.

    My score is 96+

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Closing

This was definitely the quickest trip I've ever had to Napa but the longest 1 day of tastings I've ever had (17 hours total door-to-door). In the end, it was well worth it and I'm glad all of the adverse obstacles prior to this day did not prevail!

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