2012 Barolo/Barbaresco

After surveying the charming and approachable 2011s last summer, we wanted to give the 2012s a whirl.

All of the wines were double-decanted a few hours before the dinner.

• 2022 Alberto Longo Le Fossette Puglia IGT 90 Points

  Italy, Puglia, Puglia IGT

  100% Falanghina, bottled after three months on its lees. We bought this off the list for £40 and it was a pleasant surprise, with a full, aromatic nose containing all sorts of blossom and honeysuckle notes, and good grip and length on the palate. I preferred the Foradori, but this wine wasn't completely shown up by it.

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• 2020 Foradori Pinot Grigio Fuoripista Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT 93 Points

  Italy, Trentino Alto-Adige / Veneto, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT

  Pinot Grigio left with its skins for 8 months in amphorae; the resulting salmon-pink wine is a clear success. It had quite a heady nose, spicy and seductive with a resemblance to Irn Bru, but really shone when tasted: glorious flavours of tomato, peach and watermelon, refreshing and piquant. Didn't really drink like a stereotypical orange wine, more like an extremely light red... which is a style I love. Delicious!

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• 2012 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco 90 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  This really impressed upon first being poured, with its deep, silky nose and classical feel, but either didn't hold up that well in the glass or got overpowered by the other two Barbarescos. Sour cherry verging on cough sweets, seasoned by hints of forest floor and a touch of cocoa; at first it seemed incredibly refreshing, but by the end of the glass I noticed a touch of greenness and found it slightly dilute. Still a nice wine though!

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• 2012 Cascina Luisin Barbaresco Rabajà 90 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Very aromatic, almost volatile, with notes of almond and shoe polish as well as dark red fruit. The dark fruit carried over to the palate, which also showed a surprising amount of oak, the overall effect reminding me of drinking a Manhattan. At first I found this flavour profile quite exciting and addictive but I quickly found the wine fatiguing, despite it tasting good - the hot weather not helping perhaps? Still some soft tannins, but these were not obtrusive.

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• 2012 Punset Barbaresco Basarin 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  A new producer to me, whose wine showed very well. A deep, intense nose that avoided any trace of heat or thickness, rather seeming bitter and grown-up with notes of aniseed and sandalwood, and then tobacco coming through with time in the glass. Lots of sour, grippy red fruit on the palate, almost to a puckering extent, and some deeper, darker cherry, and then a really lovely silky finish. Excellent levels of acidity made for a balanced wine, and this was an easy winner of the vote for group WOTN.

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• 2012 Trediberri Barolo 92 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  A super nose, with soft and slightly sweet red fruit. On the palate this wine was more elegant than most tonight, with a clean, mineral feel and excellent balance. Although a lovely, drinkable wine, I did though feel it was a touch pinched on the midpalate. Still, if my 2016s turn out like this I won't be disappointed.

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• 2012 Roagna Barolo Pira 92 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Something gamey and lactic on the nose at first, which happily cleared up after a few minutes to reveal a typically Roagna deep, plummy bouquet. Rather intense and powerful on the palate, but not forbiddingly so, with plenty of rich cherry fruit to enjoy. A very nice wine, voted the group's #2 tonight.

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• 2012 Elio Grasso Barolo Ginestra Casa Maté 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  At first very classical on the nose, and beautiful with it, then increasingly sweet. Liquorice, spice and a touch of oak on the palate, with balanced acidity and an airy finish. I normally love Casa Mate (although I haven't tried this vintage before), but couldn't quite fall for this one - it just seemed a bit young and disjointed - even though it was voted the group's #3 favourite.

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• 2012 G.D. Vajra Barolo Ravera 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Deep, sensual and complex nose, with violets, seaweed, fenugreek and strawberry boiled sweets all intoxicatingly intermingled. More straightforward and fruity on the palate, with juicy blueberry, some dried fruit and a relatively lush feel. This wine seemed to me to the most balanced and aromatic tonight, neither austere nor blocky, but it was quite expensive and I won't seek out another bottle.

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• 2012 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera 92 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Much leaner and brighter than the Vajra, and perhaps more typical of Ravera in that respect. High-toned nose with blackcurrant, which isn't a scent I associate with Barolo. Very juicy tart red fruit on the palate, slightly stern and austere, with somewhat drying tannins. I upscored this towards the end of the glass, and think it needs time.

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• 2012 M. Marengo Barolo Riserva Brunate 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  This was pretty oaky, although not as distinctively so as the Luisin, and that slightly sweet vanilla note dominated the nose. More sweetness on the full-bodied palate, some ginger spice and a bitter finish. The wine felt well-made, but not quite for me.

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Hmm... not a particularly endearing set of wines, although the Punset and the Vajra were definitely good, and Roagna and Trediberri showed well too. Hard to tell whether 2012 is a relatively boring, stolid, straightforwardly fruity vintage, without a great deal of tar/roses aromatic appeal, or if they're (the Produttori aside) just too young and need another few years. I have a few more, but I don't think I will be stocking up to answer the question definitively!