Enomatic madness

After a late cancellation from Burlotto, I consoled myself by heading to the Enoteca Regionale del Barolo - offering 32 wines from Enomatic with 8 bottles of each of 2019 La Morra, Barolo, Serralunga and selected bottles from older vintages. A great idea and way to educate oneself about regional characteristics.

• 2019 Cadia Barolo Monvigliero 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Floral, aromatic and perfumed with red apple, strawberry notes. Overall a very pretty but low-key impression. Juicy, quite lightweight on the palate with fine tannins. Lacking cojones.

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• 2019 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Reticent at first with a serious edge - with air it becomes more communicative and shows complex aromatic depth: dried rose, thyme, eucalyptus, a touch of tar. Dark cherry and strawberry. Rich on the palate without weight: direct and primary right now, needs a lot of time. But it's all there.

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• 2019 Azienda Agr. Boggione Claudio Barolo Brunate 90 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Rich spiced cherry nose, cinnamon and rose. Saturated cherry fruit palate - delicious but not profound. One for early drinking. Is it worth the premium over a good Langhe Nebbiolo? Probably not for my money.

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• 2019 Bric Cenciurio Barolo Coste di Rose 86 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Compact, tarry with an earthy undertone - I found it slightly stodgy. Simple on the palate - not so interesting.

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• 2019 Monchiero Barolo Rocche di Castiglione 92 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Deep and weighty on the nose: it's got a kind of Master of Puppets scooped mids thing going on: deep, chunky but articulate notes of dark cherry and earth with perfumed trebly top notes providing cut and symmetry. Super grippy, with a wall of rounded tannins on the palate: it'll need a good amount of time to fill out and soften.
  
  Here concludes my most laboured analogy of 2023.

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• 2019 Azienda Virna Di Borgogno Barolo Cannubi 94 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Wonderfully vibrant, three-dimensional fruit profile: balsamic strawberries, kirsch, rose, sandalwood - bouncy and fresh. There is a little oak influence here but it's not overt and it works well. Deliciously saturated palate: primary right now but drinkable, even with masses of fine tannins. Really superb.

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• 2019 Boasso Barolo Gabutti 89 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Whichever idiot gave this 84 points back in March needs to take a long hard look in the mirror.
  
  Maybe it's bottle variation, maybe it's 6 months' development in a recently bottled wine, maybe it's taster variation, but I liked this a lot more second time round. I found the nose quite compelling - essence of Serralunga - saturated dark fruit and rose perfume, both rounded and assertive with a hint of wildness. Concentrated on the palate. The tannins are massive but fine and overall it's a bit of a bruiser for my taste but clearly high quality.

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• 2016 San Biagio Barolo Bricco San Biagio 86 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  A little pruney and developed. Lacked intensity and character on the palate for me.

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• 2016 Negretti Barolo Riserva 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Assertively perfumed. Violet and rose florals, blossom and red fruit underneath all those lifted notes. Really a beautiful nose you could just sniff all day. So young and tight on the palate with fiery tannins. This just needs so much time.

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• 2016 Giovanni Manzone Barolo Gramolere 92 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  A producer I'm really coming to like: a complex nose of red and purple fruit, dried rose petals, some tar. Maybe a little towards the pulpy side if I'm being critical. Gentle on the palate entry, and then the tannins roll in and give you a kicking. Give it a few years!

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I'm a Tortonian kinda guy.