Gianluca Colombo

As fun and informative as any tasting with a winemaker - Gianluca was incredibly generous with his time and his passion is infectious. I found it a privilege to spend this time not only tasting a really interesting range of wines, but to hear Gianluca’s opinions on everything vinous (and lots more besides) and witness how a totally dedicated, focused producer approaches his craft. We also tried a couple of unlabelled cuvees due for release in 2024 - I haven’t written those up.

The level of perfectionism that goes into his production is inspiring - from the extremely precise barrel selection to his personal weather station to the Zalto and Conterno tasting glasses - everything is intentional and designed to give quality results. There’s a new winery (‘Winery 4.0: steel, oak, amphora and concrete’) and another estate vineyard planted to Nebbiolo coming in 2024. I have no doubt his his star will continue to ascend.

• 2021 Gian Luca Colombo Langhe Pinot Nero Sable 87 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

  Took an age to open up: a dark, muscular Pinot Noir. There’s a lot going on but I did find the overall impression a bit heavy and chunky for my taste.
  
  Only 13% but I did detect a little heat. Spicy, peppery and dark chocolate and incense notes. Some crunchy red and purple fruit. A touch of rubbery eucalpytus. There’s a certain richness and smoothness but it’s also rather burly for a PN.
  
  Fruit from three plots across Ravera and Dogliano, vinified separately and blended prior to bottling. This is all aged in botti grande but from ’22 Gianluca will use some barrique and amphora.

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• 2021 Gian Luca Colombo Barbera d'Alba Superiore 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba Superiore

  Beautiful pulpy richness. Purple-fruited with notes of thyme and sage, a fruity and spicy bouquet. Rich, full and juicy on the palate. A serious and refined Barbera that’s also delicious. Tannins quite firm, as with all of the ’21 bottlings irrespective of varietal.
  
  Very old vines, around 20 days’ skin contact. Gianluca has an interesting theory that Barbera isn’t a Piedmontese variety, possibly Southern.

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• 2019 Gian Luca Colombo Barolo 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Purple fruit, a tarry character. Energetic and vertical. Great, clean concentration on the palate. The tannic structure is (relatively) gentle. Some chocolatey notes come later. Really quite sweet and delicious, with an invigorating seam of acidity. Gianluca reckons this needs another 18 months and it’ll be good to go.

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• 2022 Gian Luca Colombo Verduno Pelaverga 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Verduno Pelaverga

  This is the apex Pelaverga. Bouncy, juicy, delicious raspberry fruit, low tannins, lovely vegetal white pepper. There’s not so much to say other than it’s mega delicious and I can’t envisage a better interpretation of this grape, full stop. And it’s academic anyway because he makes very little of it and it’s impossible to find.

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An incredibly enjoyable and informative afternoon- it's unfortunate that the change of UK distributor has resulted in very sharp price increases but he's certainly a producer worth following.