Piedmont dinner

A chance to pair a variety of Piedmontese wines with appropriate food in great company, and not to have to get a taxi home.

• NV P. Louis Martin Champagne Grand Cru Extra-Brut 87 Points

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Perfectly acceptable sparkling aperitif- would probably be an unobtrusive and versatile food wine as well. Nothing particularly distinctive to report: balanced, enough concentration and depth, fresh jack of all trades that won’t live long in the memory. Imagine a Laurent-Perrier with everything turned up half a notch.

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• NV Azienda Agricola Marcalberto Alta Langa Metodo Classico Nature 92 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Alta Langa

  I thought this was really good: pouring a rich almost amber colour it has real depth and a good amount of complexity: slightly nutty, notes of fresh yellow plum, orange rind. There’s texture and weight on the palate and a fresh finish. Great stuff.

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• 2005 Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Ovello 87 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  A scorched cordite note, red plum and liquorice, spent coffee grounds. Lacking some vibrancy and lift- it’s rather unyielding. Dry and a little heavy on the palate. Maybe there’s a slight flaw, maybe not - others around the table rated it more highly than I did.

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• 2004 Castello di Verduno Barbaresco Rabajà 88 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Relatively subtle nose, low-key but compelling with dried strawberry sweetness, a hint of eucalyptus and tar. Mid-weight and nicely resolved on the palate - smooth with enough tannic weight and acidity to provide a little chew on the finish. Correct but no thrills here.

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• 2011 Roagna Barbaresco Pajè 94 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  This really stood out - an uncommon level of elegance, delicacy and detail, backed up with quiet concentration. Fleet of foot, floral and perfumed with defined red fruit. Medium-bodied with both levity and depth on the palate. For a ‘minor’ vintage this was superb. Clearly I need more Roagna in my life.

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• 2018 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barbera d'Alba Aves 90 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba

  I love the full-throttle style of Aves- it’s not a bruiser but it’s loud and generous- and packs a 15% punch. Purple fruits with a medicinal cough sweet tone, a dark chocolate richness and prick of black pepper. Not a lifted, floral style in 2018 - more about the ripe fruit. Big and relatively smooth on the palate, nice acidity, and heat from the high abv isn’t noticeable.

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• 2005 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Superb blend of delicacy, perfume and drive. Balanced, round and complete- it still has a sweet fruit character and while there’s a sense of smoothness it also has great life and energy.

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• 2010 Giacomo Brezza e Figli Barolo Sarmassa 90 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Lifted and aromatic, a sense of transparency on the nose but the palate is rather tight and dry- the contrast was a disappointment and it needs time. It should be very very good in a few years.

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• 2010 Giovanni Manzone Barolo Bricat 92 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  After a long decant this was generous and drinkable, a developing nose of dried cherry and tar, dried tobacco. A slight plummy character. A touch of sweetness on the palate entry - lots of tannins still but they’re fine even if slightly angular. It’s enjoyable now and I suspect this is as good as it'll get.

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• 2010 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Brunate 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Purple fruit. liquorice, eucalyptus. The oak is still quite prominent. It’s coiled and dense but gives the impression there’s so much substance- it just needs a lot of patience to unwind. This had been decanted for hours and was just starting to poke its head out. Rated as it was drinking on the night: it has far greater potential.

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• 2022 Borgo Maragliano Moscato d'Asti La Caliera 85 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Moscato d'Asti

  Too sweet for me - the bubbles providing a bit of freshness but otherwise a little cloying, one-dimensional

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• 2013 Pio Cesare Moscato d'Asti 88 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Moscato d'Asti

  Turns out ageing Moscato for a decade is not a bad idea at all. Retains most of the light, vibrant, bouncy character of the variety- possibly a little flatter than you’d expect from a young wine and the bubbles are more muted, but in exchange it gains an almost leesy depth and savoury element that works really well.

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• NV Marcarini Barolo Chinato 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo Chinato

  Rosemary and pine, orange peel, strawberry liqueur. A grown-up, Christmassy amaro vibe - with the added interest of being made from Nebbiolo. I found this totally delicious and extremely appealing on a nerdy level. This will not be my only dalliance with the category, mark my words.

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