N Rhone Feast

Noizé
Tasted Wednesday, November 15, 2023 by lozatron with 76 views

Introduction

Thoroughly lovely dinner with great food, wine and company.

Flight 1 - Haddock (2 Notes)

  • 2009 André Perret Condrieu Chery

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu

    Served blind - we knew it was Condrieu. A bit plusher than the second wine, tasting more as I would associate with Viognier, a certain peachstone character. Not quite sure I *get* this, but getting there. With air and warming up become more balanced.

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  • 1986 Domaine Georges Vernay Condrieu

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu

    Served blind. Evidently there had been some variation in this case (understandable given the age) - this was reportedly good but not the best. More structure here, more bite - a certain grippiness and even acidity?

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Flight 2 - Mushroom (2 Notes)

  • 2006 Thierry Allemand Cornas Reynard

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

    Here it is. Blood, soil, iron filings. Not a relaxed wine, more like an epic workout in the gym or a tough climb at the limit of your ability - there's excitement and the vaguest hint of danger. This is the kind of wine that would take you on a road trip and you'd wake up in a hotel room not remember how or why you got there. Awesome.

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  • 2006 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

    Compared to the Allemand it sat alongside - so much better behaved, with a kind of gentle fruit character in the middle. Refusing to be damned by faint praise, with some time and focus it became more together, more attractive somehow - not glossy by any means, but a nicely put together wine.

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Flight 3 - Partridge (2 Notes)

Flight 4 - Venison (2 Notes)

  • 1996 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    Deep purple colour - young seeming for its age. Something a bit rum about this - discussion of VA at the table. Suspect this was not a great bottle.

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  • 2004 Franck Balthazar Cornas Chaillot

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

    After a disappointing brace of Hermitages, a backup was generously opened. Senses were dulled a little by this stage but this was jolly nice stuff - again, blood and iron in the core, a certain almost gentle balance to it. Lovely stuff. Interestingly it looks like I had a few of these over a decade ago...evidently drunk far too young.

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Closing

These wines are just so pleasurable - there's a vibrance and precision to them that means, I think, that they are somehow less fatiguing than other similarly impressive wines. Noizé did a sterling job on the food and service, as always.

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