A "Burgundian" Dinner

Chez Nick
Tasted Friday, November 3, 2023 by NickA with 88 views

Introduction

Dinner for eight at mine, the theme being that the reds and whites had to be "Burgundian". We ate and drank very well!

Flight 1 - Gougères (1 Note)

  • NV Pierre Gerbais Champagne Extra Brut Champ Viole 92 Points

    France, Champagne

    Disgorged 2022, and comprising 100% Chardonnay drawn from a perpetual reserve covering the 2011-2018 vintages. A classic aperitif-friendly BdB, lithe and elegant with a notably crisp finish. Surprisingly approachable (perhaps thanks to the 2018 influence?) and slipped down far too easily. Excited to see how my other bottles develop.

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Flight 2 - Pâté en croûte, chicken and black truffle terrine (4 Notes)

  • 2017 Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Initially reticent, not showing a great deal other than some lean, lemony fruit... which was a bit disappointing. With around five minutes of air, though, the wine broadened out and other nice things showed themselves, such as a minty note on the nose and a herbal, succulent finish. Retained a feeling of clean linearity desite the increased richness, and very good indeed by the final sip.

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  • 2020 Les Horées Bourgogne Blanc Aganippe 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc

    Expected this to be all hype and no trousers, but it was really lovely - if not worth the £362 currently being demanded for it! Intriguing combination of reduction and voluptuous, slightly exotic fruit on the nose, and an attractive mealy note too. Golden fruit on the palate, and an easygoing prettiness. Maybe lacked a touch of acidity, but it just tasted smelled and tasted great.

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  • 2012 Kumeu River Chardonnay Coddington 93 Points

    New Zealand, North Island, Auckland, Kumeu

    A very precise yet expressive nose. I've had issues with Kumeu wines not feeling as though they were giving 100%, but no such concern here, with the wine obviously in a super place. Slight phenolic grip, some honeydew melon, a touch lactic and an overall sense of ease. Great stuff... although it didn't speak to me emotionally in the way its flight-mate did.

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  • 2015 Ceritas Chardonnay Peter Martin Ray 93 Points

    USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains

    Stony nose, rather grown-up and authoritative. Such lovely balance on the palate, with limey fruit and a touch of something savoury, buttery yet bitter, something mealy to provide amplitude on the midpalate, and a long finish. My favourite white tonight, and a producer I'll look out for.

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Flight 3 - Grouse breasts, bacon, sage rösti, kale, swede mash, grouse sauce (3 Notes)

  • 2021 Thymiopoulos Xinomavro Gi kai Ouranos 92 Points

    Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa

    This is so good, especially for the price. Quite well-developed given its youth, but still plenty of bright, juicy red fruit, as well as a hint of something herbal. Grippy, sophisticated Nebbiolo-esque tannins. Sophisticated and just so drinkable!

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  • NV Sorpasso Tachìss Vino da Tavola 88 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Vino da Tavola

    This is far from a bad wine, but it did seem rather basic (as well as extremely young) in context. Lots of primary, overly intense fruit. Tangy, light on its feet and plenty of freshness. To be consumed with pizza rather than grouse and nerdy note-taking.

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  • 2015 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    Definitely not closed-down: in fact, rather fun and sunny in feel. Yay, 2015! Crisp and smoky, stately, good weight of red fruit, nothing spiky or out of place. Really lovely.

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Flight 4 - Conchiglioni, chicken and wild mushroom ragu (3 Notes)

Flight 5 - Truffle Perle, Vacherin (2 Notes)

  • 1998 Domaine Perrot-Minot Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru La Combe d'Orveau Vieilles Vignes 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

    Fantastic - immediate reaction was "oh yeah!", as whilst tonight's other wines were mostly in their drinking windows, this one was properly *in the zone*. Really quite savoury and sensual, and still with plenty of juicy fruit. A real pleasure, and excellent with the cheese.

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  • 2013 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée

    Was really looking forward to my first try of this vintage of one of my favourite wines, and wasn't disappointed. So suave and elegant, with no astringency, just tremendous refreshment. The excellent balance of red fruit and savoury development suggests this bottle was à point... I don't really need any more village-level Burg, but it's very tempting to get some of this.

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Flight 6 - Cashel Blue (1 Note)

  • 1994 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage 92 Points

    Portugal, Douro, Porto

    Tremendous upon being decanted (around six hours before it was eventually consumed), with a big, booming nose and an incredible berry-stained finish. Oddly the airtime seemed to reduce the wine's impact rather than promoting still more expressiveness, and the wine was merely very good in the final analysis. Fruitcake, ash and smoke, rather spicy, somehow very approachable despite still feeling pretty young. I expected this to be my favourite from my mixed six-pack of 1994 VP, but so far it's maybe the least exciting (Graham, Vesuvio, Noval, Dow so far, Fonseca remaining to try over Christmas). I'll probably pick up another bottle to be sure, though!

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