Veltliner Wende

does Veltliner rest well?

• 2022 Weingut Barbara Öhlzelt Grüner Leader 90 Points

  Austria

  Tastes the same in every detail as it did in September—save for dialed-down fermentation marks and ester. It's ever as chippy and brittle, lemon, sliced pear, lime juice, celery, and fronded of herb ... 𝘐𝘵'𝘴 𝘢 𝘴𝘰𝘱𝘩𝘪𝘴𝘵𝘪𝘤𝘢𝘵𝘦𝘥 𝘢𝘳𝘳𝘢𝘯𝘨𝘦𝘮𝘦𝘯𝘵. 𝘉𝘪𝘵𝘵𝘦𝘳 𝘭𝘢𝘴𝘩𝘦𝘴 𝘰𝘧 𝘫𝘶𝘯𝘪𝘱𝘦𝘳 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘴𝘵𝘰𝘯𝘦 𝘦𝘯𝘧𝘰𝘳𝘤𝘦 𝘣𝘢𝘭𝘢𝘯𝘤𝘦 𝘪𝘯 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘭𝘢𝘵𝘦𝘳 𝘴𝘵𝘢𝘨𝘦𝘴 𝘰𝘧 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘦𝘷𝘦𝘯𝘵. 𝘈 𝘧𝘦𝘵𝘤𝘩𝘪𝘯𝘨 𝘥𝘳𝘪𝘯𝘬! 𝘈𝘥𝘮𝘪𝘳𝘢𝘣𝘭𝘦 𝘧𝘰𝘳 𝘪𝘵𝘴 𝘱𝘶𝘳𝘪𝘵𝘺, 𝘣𝘢𝘭𝘢𝘯𝘤𝘦, 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘢𝘣𝘶𝘯𝘥𝘢𝘯𝘵 𝘦𝘹𝘱𝘳𝘦𝘴𝘴𝘪𝘰𝘯. 𝘈 𝘱𝘳𝘦𝘱𝘰𝘴𝘵𝘦𝘳𝘰𝘶𝘴 𝘣𝘢𝘳𝘨𝘢𝘪𝘯.
  As it warms slightly—to ~50° F—I notice a flattering accretion of salt. And then Biscay perry coulis, rendered pastel and grounded.
  Add this evidence to the file in support of leaving such accomplished 'entry level' wines to an extra year of cellar rest. Almost 91.
  ________
  24 hours later the edges are smudged, diluting appeal to a certain degree—serviceable, but better yesterday.

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• 2020 Hiedler Grüner Veltliner Löss 91 Points

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal

  Immediately I notice a green, lemony slap and stone cut in the aromatic entry. From that point it develops richer, sunned-earth tones, lavender, sandalwood, and flint. The first drink is attenuated and fine. For all its direct action, there is plenty of room for internal contrast and articulation—translucent and appetizing bitterness; rose petal saline; purslane; corn sprout; ceramic lemon; grip.
  
  Hiedler's 2020 GV Löss is a categorical anomaly, in that it seems to have required a third year in bottle to digest its own leesy esters. With a view to the inevitable collapse of freshness and fruit, some vigilance may be warranted, but I'm not holding my breath. Maybe I can still find another bottle to drink next year.
  ________
  tilling this tricycle of veltliner, coming around to this for the third or fourth encounter ... it's amazing.
  ________
  24 hours later it's replete with marks of oxidation—still very drinkable. 88.

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• 2021 Strekov 1075 Veltlin 95 Points

  Slovakia, Južnoslovenská

  Look.
  Zsolt Sütó farms the Hermitage of Veltliner.
  Modulating, attenuating, accelerating in scent. Walnutshell bottarga. Vengeful acidity. Coherence like a firehose of slackjaw. How can you put words to a thing like this?! It's escape velocity payload botanical vengeance. And it tastes pretty.
  ________
  24 hours later. Incrementally more clarity of flavor and honed texture. This has none of the morphological features of Viognier or Savagnin, but they're pals.

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Yes.