A Chambolle + Champagne dinner

• 2008 Georges Laval Champagne Premier Cru Brut Nature Cumières 90 Points

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  Not an easy champagne to guess. Oxidative, rich style with some age and astringency (turned out to be down to the vintage, which someone nailed impressively) so I went for a Pinot-dominant house from mid-'00s but others went for Chard-dominant grower. The yeasty and austere combination didn’t work for me here. Last vintage of Pinot Noir before it was replanted with Meunier apparently.

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• NV Egly-Ouriet Champagne Premier Cru Les Vignes de Vrigny 88 Points

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  Served side-by-side with the Falmet, both had a similar sweet, candied nose. We knew there was an Egly in the mix and both were single varietals, I guessed the Egly correctly because when it was richer and more house-like whereas the others guessed the Falmet as the Egly because they liked that more. Also was quite sure the varietal in question was Meunier because of both wines’ opulence and tropical nature. 2017 base here for the Egly but thought this was quite tight and not showing much; in my mind Egly can be maddeningly inconsistent.

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• 2010 Nathalie Falmet Champagne Extra Brut Parcelle Zx 302 92 Points

  France, Champagne

  Served side-by-side with the Egly as mentioned in the previous note and most including myself preferred this. Superb energy and tension, not as austere as I expected given what I’ve read about this producer. Slightly funky in a natural way but nothing too distracting, more pleasurable and youthful compared to the Egly despite being 7 years older.

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• NV Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brut Flawed

  France, Champagne

  Labelled 'Cuvée Hors Commerce', released in 1994. Almost salmon pink in colour, overwhelming bready and yeasty notes, guessed early '90s house since this had enough sulphur to kill a horse and dosage to satisfy an 8 year old’s sugar cravings. After some time a few people picked up on a mustiness which I interpreted as clearly corked.

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• 2004 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut 94 Points

  France, Champagne

  Wow a Cristal that I liked. Thought Comtes at first with the reductiveness and toasty brioche notes, didn’t have the strictness and lemon dishwashing liquid vibes that I normally get in Cristal. Incisive with a creamy texture, just a superbly balanced champagne. Another winner for '04 which remains one of my favourite champagne vintages.

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• 2002 Claude Cazals Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Clos Cazals 90 Points

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Another oxidative, old-school champagne. Guessed early ‘00s grower but thought it was a Pinot-dominant blend with its red fruit. A rather big-boned, clumsy champagne; would have preferred more lift and freshness.

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• 2012 Jacques Lassaigne Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature Clos Sainte Sophie 94 Points

  France, Champagne

  Wow my first instinct was Collin - opulent and ripe but so tightly coiled with acidity at the same time. Couldn’t think of a maker that was similar in style but when revealed it made complete sense. Almost golden in colour, caramel-inflected citrus fruit with a serious intensity. A very contemplative champagne that I enjoyed very much and glad to have tried it for the first time.

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• 2017 Moreau-Naudet & Fils Chablis 1er Cru Les Forêts 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  My extra since I shared this with some colleagues before dinner. Old label without the ok hand gesture. Most guessed Puligny or Meursault because of the creamy texture and a slight fatness to the wine. Much better than a previous bottle last year (with the ok sign label) as it had more freshness and salinity but still too much (artificial) sweetness; neither 2017 nor Chablis to me.

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• 2004 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Served as a pair with the Barthod from a generous friend. Even split at the table between the two wines, some liked the aristocratic aged Burgundy nature of this but I felt it lacked the elegance and finesse of an archetypal Chambolle. The smoky, savoury nature of the wine made it feel like a Gevrey to me. No ‘04 greenness but did have high acidity.

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• 2013 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Served as a pair with the Groffier from a generous friend. Took time to get going but developed a brilliant, vibrant nose of fresh raspberries (albeit only in the Sensory glass). Some screechy acidity so guessed '08 or '11 for the vintage. A very pretty, lifted wine with mineral, red strawberry fruit that reminded me of H-N stylistically. Agreed with a friend who said that cooler vintages suit Barthod's style better.

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• 2014 Frédéric Magnien Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes Vieilles Vignes 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Another wine with a red berry-laden, lifted nose but this gave the impression of some stem inclusion. A more masculine Chambolle with generous oak use that reminded me of the Cathiard Chambolle village I had in France, but felt warmer and riper so went for ‘15 as the vintage. I’ve only tried Stephane and Henri Magniens before but on this showing Frederic might be the best of the trio.

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• 2007 Louis Jadot Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuées 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  My contribution. Slightly advanced colour but palate was correct for the age. Very Jadot - a masculine Chambolle that leaned towards Gevrey with earthy, spicy characteristics and a slight cola note. Somebody managed to nail this as Fuées on his first sip!

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From a friend who kindly brought over some leftovers from a dinner that I couldn't make.

• 2015 Jean-Marie Fourrier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Small sample from a buddy after I couldn't make dinner. Stemmy with a little greenness and exotic spice. Sweet candied fruit that became more delicate with air but not quite showing coherently. Agree with a previous note that his négoce wines in general are thin and not as firm as domaine bottlings.

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• 2020 Domaine Fourrier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers Vieille Vigne 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Small sample from a buddy after I couldn't make dinner. Clearly too young with sweet, primary and candied fruit but not too dense for a 2020. Superb depth and I thought this will age better than the Amoureuses.

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• 2010 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Small sample from a buddy after I couldn't make dinner. Remarkably similar to the '07 Charmes I had in Paris with surprisingly sweet, balsamic fruit; albeit more masculine than the Charmes. Quite autumnal compared to other more youthful 2010s that I’ve had. Acidity also stuck out a little unlike other more balanced 2010s.

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