August 2008 at Bud Starr's St. Louis Tasting

Herr Doctor Richter, owner and winemaker from Mosel Weingut Max Ferdinand Richter joined Bud Starr’s monthly tasting as a guest of fellow taster and importer Bill Kniep, making August’s event even more memorable than it usually is. Doctor Richter shared stories of Mosel harvests, vintages, and some interesting opinions on the evolution of Bordeaux over the past hundred years. His family has been making Riesling in the Mosel for over 300 years and he’s got Bordeaux back to the 1880s. Naturally, we suggested his place for a future event…

• 1989 Weingut Max Ferd. Richter Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese 90 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  How fresh and lacy this is. Some diesel still, along with citrus blossom. Some apple and a bit of tension remaining on the palate. Doctor Richter pointed out the blackberry / black currant note to the wine, which he noted was typical of this hot vintage. A very nice start.

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• 2000 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Opened an hour before the tasting; it was oxidized. I brought it along anyway as an experiment to see what would happen and it did, in fact, change. Fruit and intense minerality unfolded over time but the oxidation never fully receded. A couple of us (Doctor Richter and myself included) thought that the wine might just be in a phase – but, there’s a big question mark there. If it is going through a bad spell, there’s no argument that it’s not especially appealing today. And, it may well be oxidized. Judgment reserved on this one.

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• 2005 Pahlmeyer Chardonnay Napa Valley

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Very tropical, viscous, and quite oaky. Lemon oil, over-ripe banana, olives (or olive oil) and a strongly Rhone-like floral note. Big concentration and some acidity providing some lift. Varietal character is virtually impossible to find in this wine – the oily texture, oak, and strong floral aromatics made this much more like a Guigal special cuvée than a California Chardonnay for me. There’s some limited appeal here for effort, if nothing else, as an ‘unidentified’ white wine – but nothing speaks of Chardonnay to me. NR

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• 1986 Château Léoville Las Cases 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  The first bottle was corked. Bud opened a second of the same wine, and in a very rare display of poor judgment, served a few degrees to warm. Some leafy Cabernet scents on the nose with a strong lead pencil note. Tannins are appealingly grippy, but the acidity was too much, throwing the wine out of balance, though not badly so. Not nearly the showing you would want for this wine -- a bit of a disappointment when it was revealed.

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• 1982 Château Gruaud Larose 97 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Just a touch of band-aid / brett on the nose. Very aromatic -- with currant bush and lead pencil dominating – there’s some green tobacco too. The fruit is really plumy – perfectly ripe without going over into anything stewed or baked. Silky fine tannins and a powerful and long finish to this one. Spectacular showing – and after a number of mediocre bottles of this, easily the best 1982 Gruaud I’ve ever had.

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• 1995 Araujo Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele Vineyard 94 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  What a jump here -- we're on to something much bigger and younger. Packed and stacked, this is chocolate love. Craig noted a medicinal licorice (not sweet) on the nose, which I thought was apt. Some dried flowers softened a lot of powerfully masculine aspects to the wine. Rich, ripe, very round and velvety wine. Maybe a little clumsy, but certainly not monolithic. I’ve had this a half-dozen or more times over the years and I think this bottle is the best yet for me, though, I’ve never seen this as a toe-curling wine. Very nice courtesy of Bill. Wish I had a few bottles left.

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• 1994 Abreu Cabernet Sauvignon Madrona Ranch 95 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  A friend of mine always says, ‘this is so good it must be from California…’ Well, I’d suggest this is good enough to be Bordeaux. Not unlike the Araujo in many ways – particularly the chocolate. But, for me, and everyone didn’t agree with this sentiment, there’s more polish to this wine today. It’s hugely aromatic, elegant, more feminine in style and lighter on its feet. Very pretty and showing all it has. Well liked by the table, and generally scored consistent with the Araujo.

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• 1997 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon The Montelena Estate 89 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  The nose is a bit strange here – a Christmas candy note mixed with dark chocolate and a piney, resinous, greenish quality that, for me, wasn’t especially appealing. On the palate, disappointingly monolithic. The acidity is disjointed here. Simple. There was nothing wrong with the bottle -- maybe it was consumed too young but, really, it's hard to be generous here. And, I generally like Montelena.

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• 1997 Viader 87 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Now here’s a chubby sex-pot of a wine, it’s just overflowing with flesh. Unfortunately, she's not very pretty. It’s hot and volatile, a bit of a mess, really. Quite flavorsome – but, lacking anything interesting. There’s a raw oak note on the nose. Clumsy and inelegant. No need for a second glass here.

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• 2000 Château Trotanoy 98 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  It’s hard for me to write an objective note about this wine as it is a personal favorite. For me, Dr. Riedel said it best – “it’s like looking at the Mona Lisa from 4 inches”. Dr. Richter, like me, finds it the best of the evening, showing great class and depth of flavor. The fruit here is so pure, deep, and fresh. The nose is soaring, with beautiful leafy / herb-tinged plums and a bit of coffee. Jaw-droppingly good for me and almost certain to be Grand Vin someday.

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• 2000 Domaine de la Solitude (Lançon Père et Fils) Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Barberini 94 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Sauvage – we’re into Grenache here – with some animal notes mixing with eau-de-vie soaked red and black fruits. A bit baked, but the flavors aren’t washed out at all – it’s a very persistent wine and it manages to maintain some freshness despite being hugely over-ripe. This sex-pot is prettier than the Viader…

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• 1998 Peter Michael Pinot Noir Le Moulin Rouge 90 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands

  A predictably generous contribution from Dr. Riedel. This was a bit closed on the nose. What was there a was a bit odd, with a faintly metallic top note over red fruits. Some understated cola, rhubarb, and clove suggested Russian River – though, some were off to Burgundy. Much more pleasant on the palate, with some pretty red fruit. Quite full and round with a solid finish. The wine is very resolved but with no sense that it is beginning to fade. At the same time, I find it hard to believe it wasn’t dramatically more appealing with its baby fat intact. Interesting, but certainly disappointing when one considers how much the bottle is worth.

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Thanks for reading.

BordeauxNut