Bistro 21, Durham
Tasted Thursday, December 4, 2008 by SimonG with 483 views
Many thanks to the NE(ish) offliners for arranging this to coincide with me being in town and for their warm welcome. A fun range of wines that all seem, despite being blind, to have paired up into similar pairs/threes very nicely. Thanks to Charlie M for organising.
2007 Weingut Burggarten Neuenahrer Sonnenberg Spätburgunder Weißherbst trocken
Germany, Ahr
Screwcap. Petillant but no great pressure. Faint salmon pink. Grapey, peachy fruit on the nose, following through to the attack with a ripe-fruited middle and a dry finish. OK, in a summer-holiday aperitif sort of way. More of a struggle with snow on the ground outside! *1/2
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2006 Ridgeview Bloomsbury
United Kingdom, England, Sussex, West Sussex
Fizz. Pale; quite a fine mousse. Faintest of spiced apples on the nose suggesting chardonnay. Lacking in the mouth, slightly chalky dry finish, but pretty non-descript. A telling amount left in the bottle (2/3!). *
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1997 Franz Hirtzberger Weissburgunder Smaragd Steinporz Flawed
Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
My bottle, so not blind. Uurgh, this nose is horrible, and off - very spicy, lactic, cheesey not. Not right. Palate ok, about 80% how it should be. Once past the nose this bottle is **, but this is not right.
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2002 La Soufrandière Pouilly-Vinzelles Les Quarts
France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Vinzelles
Medium white. Caramel aplles, some oxidation. Spicy, quite mineral. Savannieres? Certainly seems like a Chenin Blanc, but apparently not. Lots of oak in here, too much. After being revealed and with a bit more air this is obviously chardonnay - the oxidative and chenin aromas seem to have blown off. Far, far too much oak for me. **
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1998 Domaine Leroy Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-Du-Milieu
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Nicely pinot nose, quite a young, relatively unevolved colour. Burgundian fruit on the atatck, still quite a tannic touch to the finish though not worryingly so. Fuller at the front and a little lighter on the finish initially, but with air this rounds out and takes on more weight and starts to show more complexity. Lovely, but a baby. ***(*)
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2003 Nouveau Salquenen (Mathier) Pinot Noir Ambassadeur des Domaine
Switzerland, Valais, Salquenen
Mine, so not blind. outrageously heavy bottle / deep punt. Delicate smokey nose, some strawberry, dusty fruit. Light, red-fruited atatck, fresh acidity, positive finish, nice balance. *** This had the desired effect of convincing the room that we were in the Cote de Beaune. Upon retuning to this later in the evening Peter quite rightly pointed out it was becoming a bit clumsey and disjointed. Open and enjoy rather than decant!
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2002 Craggy Range Sophia
New Zealand, North Island, Hawke's Bay, Gimblett Gravels
Heavy bottle. Slight acetone VA nose on top of spicy, chocolatey fruit aromas suggesting some merlot. After some (incorrect) guesses about country we land in NZ and I suggest Craggy Range Sophia, possibly 2004. Spot on, but it's actually 2002. wow, this is very young. Hiuge grip on the finish and oodles of fruit. Needs years. **(*)1/2
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2000 Rust en Vrede Estate Red Wine Stellenbosch
South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch
Another heavyish bottle. Full, deep colour, spicy nose. Full, deep fruit, slightly citrusy notes on the end of the nose. Gaining smokey complexity in the glass. Nicely balanced, good length. Nice lift. Guessed as a South African blend, but beyond that no idea. This is very nice indeed. ***(*)
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2004 Firriato Nero d'Avola Sicilia Ribeca
Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
Full, deep colour. Hints of syrah on the nose, but possibly a new world cab-sauv blend? No. We settle on Italy and I guess a Nero d'Avolo from the south. A couple of Sicilian wineries guessed at, but not the correct one. Good winter-warming material. Smooth and full though lacking some finesse. Good. ***
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1970 Château Las Collas Rivesaltes
France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Rivesaltes
Mid brown. Caramel nose with figgy fruit. Guess this as a Rivesaltes straight away, but plum for one of the solera-style ones, possibly the 28 that's been doing the rounds in the last couple of years. No, straight vintage and the 1970. This is very nice. ***1/2
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1998 Domaine Gauby Muscat de Rivesaltes
France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Muscat de Rivesaltes
Pale yellow. Slightly strange, astringent nose, finishing with pears. Grapey, light fresh attack and finishes in the same way. Distinctive but not in a negative way, just different. Soemone gets this as muscat de Rivesaltes. Good but I'd find the nose a little off-putting after a glass. Just about ***
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