March Bordeax Tasting

Waterford Wine Company
Tasted Wednesday, March 18, 2009 by *Vine* with 707 views

Introduction

Bordeaux tasting led by Ben Christiansen, proprietor of Waterford Wine Company (boutique wine retail in Milwaukee).

3 flights of 3 wines, all receiving 4.5 hours of aeration.

Flight 1 (3 Notes)

Nice contrast between the 2005 Bellevue and 2000 Bellevue, both from outstanding vintages. Clearly, the 2000 was more open and aromatic with 5 additional years of maturation. But it's easy to see that the 2005 will equal or eclipse the 2000 one day.

The Chateau Aney is definitely a nice drink of Bordeaux for the money.

  • 2005 Château Aney 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    Medium to medium-plus red-purple hue, youthful. Mild perfume of black currants, plum, earth, and a touch of green. Medium body. More black currants on the palate along with notes of cedar, vanilla bean, and oak. Moderate length on the finish. Nice acidity is a plus. Although still quite youthful, IMO this will definitely provide nice drinking in the early to mid-term. Very nice for the Haut-Medoc.

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  • 2005 Château de Bellevue (André Chatenoud) Lussac-St. Émilion

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Lussac-St. Émilion

    Medium-plus hue with a core of dark purple and ruby on the rim. Expressive aromas of blackberry, touch of black currant, and leaf tobacco - quite primary. In mouth, the flavors of fresh blackberries continue, along with notes of misc. black fruits, minerals, and oak. Chewy tannins, touch of heat on the finish. Extremely youthful, seemed to shut down after about 15-20 minutes in glass (hence the lack of a score). Needs time in the cellar! However, I do believe this will be a fine example of a St. Emilion one day and should score somewhere in the 90-93+ range.

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  • 2000 Château de Bellevue (André Chatenoud) Lussac-St. Émilion 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Lussac-St. Émilion

    Medium-plus, dark ruby hue. Forward nose with complex notes of crushed rocks, black currants, a hint of bell pepper, smoke, and even an aroma of violets - quite nice. Medium body. On the palate, flavors of black fruits, cigar box, and minerals blend to give this one a very fresh and appealing profile. Firm, tannic structure indicates that this has many years left to go. A very nice example of adolescent Bordeaux.

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Flight 2 (3 Notes)

Again a nice comparison. The Mouton was the WOTN, great aromatics.

  • 1998 Château Gruaud Larose 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Medium-plus intensity to the hue; deeply tinted core and garnet on the rim with a slight haze. Rich, savory aromas...with notes of plum, game, leather (maybe a touch of bret?), cassis, earth, and a hint of anise. Nice concentrated with a corpulent body. On the palate, distinct flavors of cassis, cigar box, forest floor, and earth are carried through on the moderate finish that ends with chewy tannins. Not sure how this will hold up, fruit is already fading...should probably be enjoyed over the next 2-4 years.

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  • 2004 Château Duhart-Milon 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Dark, garnet-purple hue with nice vibrancy. Ripe black fruits, creme de cassis, fresh tobacco leaf, mixed herbs, with a slight "funk" to the fruit. Medium body. Nice Pauillac profile of cuurants and cassis, unsmoked cigar, notes of earth and just a touch of green on the moderate finish. Mild tannins. All-in-all, a pretty and soft claret that still needs 4-8+ years to show it's best.

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  • 1996 Château Mouton Rothschild 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Garnet-purple hue, intensity on the plus side of medium. Fragrant, forward nose of black fruits, creme de cassis, pronounced herbaceous notes, rich tobacco and cedar with an underlying earthiness...a lot going on here! Medium body. The palate is greeted with beautiful, pure flavors of currants and cassis, dark fruits, earth, minerals, and fresh cedar that's nicely framed with a faint kiss of toasty oak. Such great balance, with nice harmony between the chewy tannins and acidity. Moderate-plus finish. This Mouton is still quite youthful and should only improve with another 8-13+ years in the cellar.

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Flight 3 (3 Notes)

Although not my favorite flight, this did include the 2002 Pavillon Rouge, which was my WOTN runner-up. A beautiful Margaux that has much in common with the 2002 Chateau Margaux.

The 2005 Grand Destieu was not a good foil for the two wines from Margaux, both of which came across as feminine and elegant...especially compared to the flamboyance exhibited by the 2005 St. Emilion.

  • 2002 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Medium, purple-ruby hue. Perfume of mixed red & black fruits, anise, spices, and a floral touch. Medium body. Tasty flavors of raspberry, red currant, fresh herbs, a touch of cedar, and minerals. Moderate-plus length. Nicely structured, with elegant, fine-grained tannins. A delicious second wine that almost enters the realm of sublime.

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  • 2004 Château Siran 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Medium-plus ruby with a purple core. Mild aromas of fresh red fruits, herbs, and a touch of incense (sandalwood). Medium body. Raspberry, red fruits, fresh herbs and cedar, with an underlying note of minerals on the palate. Soft tannins, finish of moderate length. Tasty, if a bit refrained...

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  • 2005 Château Grand Destieu

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    Medium-plus black cherry hue. Forward nose alive with jammy fruit notes of blackberries, raspberries, a touch of forest floor and earth. Medium-plus body. Very new world, international profile...with ripe berries, vanilla bean, and black tea notes framed by a touch of earth and a mild green streak on the moderate finish. Big, well-rounded tannins are presently obscured by the oodles of fruit. Still primary, this needs a few years in the cellar. Should score in the 89-91+ range. A complete contrast to every other Bordeaux tasted this evening.

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Closing

Although the Mouton was great, my personal WOTN was the 2002 Pavillon Rouge - just excellent claret. Also, the 2005 Grand Destieu stuck out like a sore thumb in a lineup of mostly "classic" styled Bordeaux...that's not to say it's a bad wine at all, just made in a much more modern style that will appeal to fans of CA Merlot and Cabernet.

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