TN: EWG does Mostly N&S Rhones at Bistro K

Autumn has hit and with it comes the change in menus. Our group met again at Bistro K last Friday to usher in the new fall menu and an evening of rhone wines. As is always the case, the company, food and wines were exceptional. I'm really enjoying our monthly get togethers. Thanks to all who attended and brought some very fun and enjoyable wines. Special thanks to the TCA demon for taking the night off.

• 2001 Domaine Mouton Condrieu Côte Bonnette

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu

  Honeyed in color with a big nose of pineapple and tropical fruits. Not enough acid to carry the mid palate and a bit unfocused. Not very food friendly, but makes for a nice apperitif thanks to the nose alone.

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• 2002 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc De L'Orée

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Lemon citrus notes dominate the nose. The palate shows more citrus and minerals. With it's trademark waxy texture present, the body shows some fruit though with less intensity than Hermitage Blanc can achieve. Some acid cuts through to carry a finish that clips a little at the end. Better with food.

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• 1988 Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des Célestins

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Clearly the most complex of the wines tonight. Crushed cherries, tar, garrigue, slight barnyard nose. Nice and elegant in the mouth. A very balanced package. With over an hour of air, the wines nose changed showing more depth of fruit. The palate became a bit more tannic and showing greater depth of fruit. The wine seemed to have less intensity than I would have expected from this "holy grail". I would've liked to sample this after some significant airtime or even on day two, yet somehow this one didn't last Still this wine clearly gets my WOTN vote. Thank you David for this treat.

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• 1999 Les Cailloux (Lucien et André Brunel) Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Andre Brunel is one of my favorite winemakers in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. I've had 4 since release and enjoyed everyone so far. Perfumed nose mixed with raspberry and darker fruits with some spice. The palate has glycerin and kirsch with garrigue woven in. A little higher in acidity makes this wine great with food. Many years left. I think it will soften more with time hopefully gaining some complexity along the way.

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• 1998 Bosquet des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Chantemerle

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Very nice wine but so young and primary right now. This one needs time. Bigger and more intense than the '99 Les Cailloux. Tom said he decanted for about 1 1/2 hours when at some point, it began to tighten up some in the decanter. It began to show some raspberry kirsch notes but you know there is more burried in there. Leaving some in my glass as long as possible helped. I'd suggest further cellar time.

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• 2001 Bernard Burgaud Côte-Rôtie

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  I liked this wine a lot. Nice rustic notes of dark fruits, bacon and leather. I found this wine lush, forward and somewhat hedonistic. Already showing a lot for such a young wine. Nice length and balance. This wine is clearly drinking with pleasure at the moment.

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• 2001 Michel & Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  The Ogier was more structured and precise compared to the Burgaud. Much darker in fruit, yet very primary with liccorice, clove and a tannic backbone. The wine seemed to show more restraint. Another candidate for cellar time. Also another wine that may have benefited from an extended decant.

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• 1998 Louis Bernard Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  I didn't get to this one for some reason until late in the evening. I agree with Peter in that this was a correct wine yet somewhat overwhelmed by it's company tonight. Simple raspberry grenache profile with slight garrigue tones. Also drank better with food.

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• 2003 Saxum Broken Stones

  USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

  This dark, inky wine sat in the decanter most of the evening. It's voluptuous, rich and intense with sweet sappy fruit, some clove and new American Oak. This was clearly new world, almost port like in weight. A cheese course would have been nice match. Not exactly my style, but nonetheless, an interesting drink. I look forward to seeing how well these big style Syrahs will age. There certainly is an abundance of richly appointed fruit, but the acidity and tannins were burried.

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Regards,
Gregg