2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva (and a few others)

Burnside Zupan's (Portland, OR)
Tasted Monday, July 27, 2009 by David Paris (dbp) with 571 views

Introduction

Zupan's in Portland put on another fine event (tasting wise) in their underground cellar, tasting the (almost) complete lineup of 2004 single vineyard Barbarescos from Produttori del Barbaresco. This event was a bit smaller than usual (turnout wise), but that's fine by me as they usually are quite crowded and hard to navigate. The food was decent, but not as good as the last Produttori event. The real piss off of the whole situation was that they only had between 3-7 bottles available of every wine. They did say there wasn't much, but I didn't realize quantities were THAT slim, or I would have begun reserving my wines as I tasted them. While I would have purchased a case based upon my experience, I wound up with TWO bottles; one Rabaja (not tasted), and one Montesteffano. Prices were fantastic ($45 each), but the quantities were ridiculous. At one point I inquired about the Rabaja with the male host, and he said they only had 3 bottles. I said, "Can I reserve those?" and he said, "it's going to be some kind of rock paper scissors for those, I think..." I think someone else overheard me asking, because he then asked the other hostess, who reserved two of the bottles for him. I then asked her, and she put the one aside for me. Nice team work, folks...

Considering the Galloni praise (a critic I generally align with), I had high expectations and was thusly a bit disappointed overall. Though I'm also certain these will become much better wines in time, as all of them are nearly rock hard today. But as always, these scores/notes are for today's enjoyment. The real standouts from the tasting were the Montesteffano and the Albino Rocca Vigneto Brich Ronchi... The latter being absolutely delicious (I probably under-rated it). I'd put a straw in it if I had a bottle to myself... just thinking about it makes me happy. Doubt I'll be able to pick any up for anywhere near the price. I didn't even see any for sale it went so fast... interesting event structure, being that they're offering all these wines for taste with such limited quantities. Anyway, onto it...

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Flight 1 (12 Notes)

  • 2007 Riff Pinot Grigio 83 Points

    Italy, Delle Venezie

    Nice acidity, but very straight forward. Some lemon on the palate, but quite bitter. A good party wine, but not something I'd reach for... nor something I'd use to introduce Cru Barbarescos.

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  • 2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo 90 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Fairly tart, and light fruit flavors on the nose. Very bright on the palate, showing acidic tart flavors (cranberry), chalk, and very tight tannins build. Nice transition on the finish, as pretty acidic fruit builds with plenty of tannin. It does wind up opening up a bit on the finish... a nice wine.

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  • 2004 Cantina del Pino Barbaresco 90 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Very fruit forward for Nebbiolo, but very pretty floral aromas, along with some rocks. Again, big and bright on the palate, no real acid, but tannins are present to go along with the nice strawberry flavors. Big tannins on the finish and quite tart. Open everywhere (nose, palate) except the finish, which is still fairly tight. There is pretty fruit throughout, though.

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  • 2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montefico 88 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Tart red berries, almost a bit candied though, showing some cherry sour ball. Very slight heat noticeable on the nose as well. Big red fruits on the palate, showing smooth acidity which builds. High acid finish, and quite wound up. Really not too interesting today.

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  • 2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello 90 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Some funk, but overall light, showing some candied red fruits on the nose. Bright, pretty twizzlers fruit in the mouth, showing nice acid and some soil. Nice integration of soil, fruit, and nice body and tannins... certainly delicious red fruits. Perhaps I should have picked some of this up afterall.

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  • 2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano 92 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Very tightly wound, but plenty of complexities can be drawn out on the nose... this shows an interesting shrimp shell, acid, rocks, and some clay. It's all quite subtle and soft, but it's there. Nice, pretty red fruits on the palate, some candy, but more pure strawberries and raspberries with sugar on top. Yummy. Huge tannins on the finish with nice fruit, the shrimp shell, and really nice balance. I'd love to have this in 10 years... we'll see if I can hold out that long.

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  • 2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pora 86 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Either something was strange with this bottle, or this has locked down hard since the last time I had it. This shows bright, acidic fruit on the nose; primarily cranberry. A bit hot and disjointed on the palate, but develops some candy fruit as it stays on the tongue. Tight, tannic, some pepper spice, an almost meaty flavor, and finishes with a big kick of elmer's glue that's quite off putting. Not too keen on this today...

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  • 2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pajè 86 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Another downer... Brighter red fruits than the Pora on the nose, but very tight, showing some acidic cranberry. More approachable on the palate, showing some pleasing fruit, but mainly under the covers. Tart, acidic fruit on the finish, and a bit disjointed again, with some heat coming through.

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  • 2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Asili 90 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Tight as a rock, but there's lots here... nice clean fruit on the nose, showing bits of minerality and acid. Bright fruit on the palate (primarily strawberry), and tannins begin building quickly. Nice tart red apple skin on the finish, and nice acidity. It's quite tight on the finish and nearly closed down. Really nice structure, though, and the red apple is what's really lingering. Will grow into something quite nice in the years to come, but I wouldn't touch one for 10 years.

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  • 2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Moccagatta 90 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Bright, yet generic fruits present themselves on the nose. Very nice on the palate, and actually drinking well, with pretty fruit (apple skin, cherry, pear, and raspberry). Big tannins on the finish along with good acid. Drinking decently today. Doesn't have the structure of something like the Asili, and will reach maturity sooner.

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  • 2004 Albino Rocca Barbaresco Vigneto Brich Ronchi 92 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    A huge shift after drinking the traditional Produttori wines to this, but MAN is it tasty. Very intense, bright berry candy on the nose. Almost some bubble gum aromas too, but certainly there's also leather and licorice that keeps this out of just the fruity realm. Though even the fruit is old school and real; it's just intense. Amazingly pure, thick red fruit again on the palate (like cooking down strawberries to make jam), and fantastic balance. Very pretty and graceful. Finishes with good tannins that will allow this to age a bit, but this is certainly a bit more after immediate gratification than the other wines. I'd love to drink this between 5-10 years from now. Definitely more up front, but completely delicious to this traditionally traditional palate. A real piss off that they only had a few bottles of this and sold out before I requested any.

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  • 2004 Moccagatta Barbaresco Bric Balin 90 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    I'm more with Tanzer than the rest of ya'lls here. Certainly delicious red fruits on the nose, also showing some graphite and charcoal. Some funk on the palate, but mainly up front, nice fruit. Big tannins on the finish, with lots of cranberry skin. A let down after the Albino Rocca Vigneto Brich Ronchi which I was told I wasn't allowed to buy.

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Closing

Sure, an enjoyable tasting... but the lack of wine availability made absolutely no sense and left a bad taste in my mouth... why bother hosting this? I guess I'll have to order my wines as I taste for future events.

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