NobleRottersSydney - Hunter Valley (+Steliano Cusmiani, Bimbadgen)

Lucio's, Paddington
Tasted Monday, April 5, 2004 by graemeg with 596 views

Introduction

The Noble Rotters April dinner was ostensibly themed “Hunter Valley – 1996 and earlier”, but the usual few exceptions made their appearance. Special guest Steliano Cusmiani from Bimbadgen wines brought us some starters:

Flight 1 (15 Notes)

  • 2001 Bimbadgen Estate Sémillon

    Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley, Pokolbin

    Pale straw. A little sweet lemon on the nose, with some melon notes. The palate is quite luscious, in a light style. There’s a little honey (its quite sweetish - 5g/l of residual sugar). The acid is soft yet still fresh, but I find the cumulative sweetness grows which tends to reduce enjoyment as further glasses are consumed. So-so

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  • 2000 Bimbadgen Estate Sémillon

    Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley, Pokolbin

    Straw colour. A very different aroma [than 01] – almost has a fishy smell, with toasty overtones. Lots of acid. In an awkward stage. The primary fruit flavours are subsiding, but little in the way of secondary development has occurred. The texture is across most of the palate, yet the body is still quite light. Leave for a while.

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  • 1999 Bimbadgen Estate Sémillon

    Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley, Pokolbin

    Pale straw. A bit watery at first, this wine showed quite a flat dumb nose. The flavours are developed but muted – fruit is reticent. It’s either very dumb or slightly oxidized. Difficult to say much here, & we think this wine’s not quite right.

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  • 1991 Tyrrell's Sémillon Vat 1

    Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley

    Mid yellow. There is some development of secondary toasty quasi-oaky notes, although the wine seems in something of a hole. Some soft lemon fruit remains but this wine is all about structure at the moment. The acid is very strong still, but not unless you look for it – something of a paradox! And the long finish bodes well. I think this wine needs another 5 years to build fully, although it’s not at all bad now.

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  • 1992 Tyrrell's Sémillon Vat 1

    Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley

    2 bottles of this. The first is a straw yellow, yet presents soapy vanillan flavours, and seems to have rather lost interest. Appears to be a wine in decline. The Aged Release, this spent it’s first 5 years in Tyrrells own cellars. The 2nd bottle’s label suggests a private bin wine which lived who-knows-where until I bought it in 98. This is a much darker yellow, yet has lovely toasty honey flavours and aromas. It’s still fresh, yet developed, and with super palate length. Weird!

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  • 1996 Tyrrell's Sémillon Vat 1

    Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley

    Straw-coloured. A very raw green nose compared to the two older wines, this even displays distinct asparagus aromas. Very much at an awkward age, there’s acid a–plenty, but everything’s rather unintegrated at the moment. Good wine, but come back later.

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  • 1989 Tyrrell's Chardonnay Vat 47 Flawed

    Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley

    Utterly and irretrievably overwhelmed by TCA

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  • 1994 Tyrrell's Chardonnay Vat 47

    Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley

    Mid yellow. Lovely rich nose, with mango and lanolin notes. The fruit is ripe yet taut, with understated oak nuances peering through. Wonderfully balanced palate from front to back, and nice medium weight finish. Lovely wine indeed.

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  • 2002 Bimbadgen Estate Shiraz

    Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley, Pokolbin

    Subdued nose of sour cherries, graphite, & smoky French oak. [An all-Hunter blend of 36 different old-vine plots throughout the valley.] The palate is quite unholstered, with a rich sweetness to the fruit. Minimal grape tannins. Oak is submerged.

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  • 2000 Bimbadgen Estate Shiraz

    Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley, Pokolbin

    The nose here is warmer, riper [than 02], with rich, slightly earthier Hunter notes. A good even palate with a moderate length and a nice finish. Elegant, sweet fruit – very good.

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  • 1999 Bimbadgen Estate Shiraz

    Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley, Pokolbin

    Very subdued nose here, and apparently the product of a cooler harvest. There’s some earthiness, with a tinge of a vegetal nature about it. Lots of tannins here – a bit green perhaps, suggesting that fruit ripeness was something of an issue? Hard to peg this wine – perhaps it’ll lift with more time, but I fear it’ll just become increasingly skeletal.

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  • 1987 Lake's Folly Cabernet

    Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley

    Fresh from 10 years of non-climate-controlled storage! There’s some distinct onion-skin colour at the rim. The bouquet presents lovely leathery old-fruit aromas. The palate is balanced very much towards the front and centre, and there’s almost no tannin left now – the back palate gets a bit of an easy ride here. Perhaps it’s sowing a little volatility now, but I think it’s very good. And it’s all of 11.8% abv. But if you don’t like the style…

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  • 2000 Peter Lehmann Shiraz Eight Songs

    Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley

    Older Hunters. How did this get here? Crimson red. After the last wine it’s hugely jammy & confected, with almost a porty sweetness. Such rich fruit. Good wine, but a fish out of water tonight.

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  • 1997 Lindeman's Shiraz Bin 9403

    Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley

    Mid red. Lots of varnish, sweaty saddle, faint VA, Hunter nose. The palate’s quite slippery, somewhat astringent, yet still manages to have a front-palate, tip-of-the-tongue weight bias. Will still hold, but I don’t know that it will develop particularly well. I think the glory days are well gone for this label unless they change their vineyard sources…

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  • 1983 Hardys Vintage Port

    Australia

    Lots of warm brandy spirit here, with warm black fruits and dark chocolate aromas. A front palate wine, with plenty of warm spirity falvours. Good for an Oz VP, but rather hard to appraise properly at this late stage of the night…

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