Annotated List of Non-Fruit-Bomb Aussie Wines

CellarTracker Main Site

Annotated List of Non-Fruit-Bomb Aussie Wines

View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Logged in as: Guest

Users viewing this topic: none

Printable Version

All Forums >> [Cellar Talk] >> General Discussion >> Annotated List of Non-Fruit-Bomb Aussie Wines

Page: [1]

Message

<< Older Topic Newer Topic >>

Annotated List of Non-Fruit-Bomb Aussie Wines - 11/6/2017 8:31:20 AM

hankj

Posts: 4672
Joined: 6/26/2008
From: Seattle, WA
Status: offline

Hi folks - discussion on another thread forked to Australian wines, and the response to my question on which to look for led to this generous and useful response from newer forum member Penguinoid (Who unfortunately attests to being "Probably not a penguin." Sad, but we shall endure).

So I've pasted that response here - definitely deserves the daylight - thank again "mate"! (did I do that right?;)

ORIGINAL: hankj

I, like many other Northern Hemisphere wine lovers, drank a lot of Aussie wines for a while, but stopped during the fruit bomb arms race of the 1990's and early 2000's. I found other areas -- too many of them -- and never invested the time and risk in re-figuring out Australia. I know a few leaner bottles, but not many.

Given that, as a local do you have a short list of 3 or 4 labels that aren't fruit bombs and that might export to the US? No pressure - just curious

RESPONSE:

Yes, it's unfortunate (but understandable) that Australia has got this reputation. I know a lot of wine enthusiasts in the UK had this problem with Australian wines too. Clumsy marketing by Wine Australia hasn't exactly helped, nor has the flood of cheap and cheerful wines like Yellowtail. It doesn't help that Australia is a big country, with a huge range of climates -- Tasmania, for example, is quite a lot colder than the Barossa Valley -- and lots of regions and sub-regions. Many of the more interesting producers are relatively small, and either don't export, or have only recently started to export. Making relatively big fruit-bombs is easy in some of the warmer climates, and I guess for a while it did pull in both the big money and the critics' praise.

I came up with a list of eight producers who I think should be available in the US. I have missed a few obvious ones that I have not tried myself (eg, Clonakilla's Shiraz-Viognier is perhaps the archetypical cool climate Shiraz-Viognier in Australia, but is also priced accordingly...), and I haven't included any from Tasmania as I'm not as familiar with their wines. Though they can be excellent too.

Yangarra, Mclaren Vale, South Australia - beautiful Rhône-inspired red and white wines -- their grenaches and rousannes are particularly good. Whilst these are warm-climate wines, they tend more towards elegance than power. They should be available in the US as the winery is owned by Jackson Family Wines! https://www.yangarra.com/

Tahbilk, Nagambie Lakes, Victoria - particularly good Marsanne, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. Their other wines are well worth trying too. Seems to be available in the US. http://www.tahbilk.com.au/our-story.html

Yabby Lake, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria - their single vineyard (and single block) Pinot noirs and Chardonnays are a bit pricey, but very good. They export widely, so should be available in the US. http://www.yabbylake.com/

De Bortoli, Yarra Valley, Victoria - a big company with a number of wineries, but their Yarra Valley wines are particularly good. Even the most basic/cheapest (the Windy Peak label) wines are ok. http://www.debortoli.com.au/we-love-wine/discover-our-regions/yarra-valley/

Cullen Wines, Margaret Rive, West Australia - beautiful Bordeaux-style blends from West Australia, they tend to be a bit lighter in alcohol and more elegant than is perhaps typical. The Diana Madeline cabernet blend is particularly good. https://www.cullenwines.com.au/

Tyrrell's, Hunter Valley, New South Wales - their Hunter Valley wines include some beautiful medium bodied reds (Shiraz, Cabernet sauvignon and the occaisonal, surprisingly good, Pinot Noir despite the warm climate), as well as very good Hunter Valley Sémillons, which are excellent as lithe, acid-driven young wines (great with oysters) or as richer, honeyed older wines.

Tyrrell's are family owned, but a large company, so should be available in the US. https://www.tyrrells.com.au/

M Chapoutier Australia, Heathcote, Australia - wines from Heathcote, Beechworth, and the Victorian Pyrenees. They are Australian wines, but made with a more old-world/French style, and are generally very good. http://mchapoutieraustralia.com/

Greenock Creek, Barossa Valley, South Australia - this might be veering more towards the fruit-bomb category for you, I'm not sure. These are rich, full bodied wines from a warm climate, but I'd be disinclined to categorise them as fruit bombs as they are complex, age-worthy wines -- and often surprisingly elegant, too. Perhaps, if possible, look for wines from cooler years. They are available in the US. http://www.greenockcreekwines.com.au/

Plus a few smaller, more eccentric producers who may or may not be available

Bass Phillip, Gippsland, Victoria. Beautiful (if expensive) Pinot noirs. These tend to be highly sought-after, so I'm not sure about availability. http://www.bassphillip.com/

Jamsheed, Yarra Valley, Victoria - an interesting producer, with a good line-up of cool climate wines. I've only got to try his 'Ma Petite Francine' Cabernet franc so far, but that was excellent. I think they're available in the US, but am not completely sure. http://jamsheed.com.au/

Domaine Lucci/Lucy Margaux Vineyards, Adelaide Hills, South Australia. These may be hard to get, as they are also sought-after, and made in small quantities in a shed with no electricity somewhere in the hills. A good example of 'natural' winemaking in Australia. They can be anything from incredibly eccentric to wines that would pass for very good 'conventional' wines. https://www.lucymargauxvineyards.com/ (though this website is so out-of-date as to be useless)

Shobbrook Wines, Barossa Valley, South Australia. Another 'natural' winemaker, listed as his Barossa wines are lighter than most other producers, and very good. Not sure about availability. http://www.shobbrookwines.com.au/

... Sorry, I got a bit over-excited. I thought it best to list quite a few, as I am not sure what is available where. I've tried to include a good variety of cool and warm climate wines, and different winemaking styles. Hopefully there should be some of interest in amongst them.

_____________________________

There are those who'd call us a bunch of sots but we don't see ourselves like that. We see ourselves as hobbyists. - Kevin Barry

Post #: 1

RE: Annotated List of Non-Fruit-Bomb Aussie Wines - 11/6/2017 10:37:41 AM

bretrooks

Posts: 2871
Joined: 9/27/2009
From: San Luis Obispo, CA
Status: offline

Cool topic, thanks for reposting here.

Coincidentally, I recently had my first Tasmanian wine (a bordeaux blend), and it would certainly qualify as a non-fruit-bomb Aussie wine...

2010 Domaine A Petit 'a'
Not decanted, consumed over 1 1/2 hours. A bit austere, dark berry and currant notes, but lean and structured and fairly savory. A little bit vegetal - in the sense of garden vegetables moreso than "greenness." The fruit that is there seems dense enough that it could last a while. My gut impression is that this may be better (for my palate) with another year or two of age, and that it should drink well for several years beyond that.

_____________________________

WSET L3 in Wines
My Cellar

(in reply to hankj)

Post #: 2

RE: Annotated List of Non-Fruit-Bomb Aussie Wines - 11/6/2017 11:03:24 AM

Wine_Strategies

Posts: 3833
Joined: 4/28/2009
From: Castle Pines N., CO. or Italia
Status: offline

vg, with 10-20+ years on them:
Thalgara
Yarra Yerring
Brokenwood
Parker First Growth
Penfold's RWT
Moss Wood
Penley Reserve Cab
Cape Mentele
Balgownie

LindsayM is a great taster/note writer, I'm a fan; good way to learn about some of the treasures that aren't really exported, and a few that are

< Message edited by Wine_Strategies -- 11/6/2017 11:04:36 AM >

_____________________________

Tim

https://ItalianWine.Smugmug.com

https://www.italianwine.blog

(in reply to bretrooks)

Post #: 3

RE: Annotated List of Non-Fruit-Bomb Aussie Wines - 11/6/2017 11:57:53 AM

hankj

Posts: 4672
Joined: 6/26/2008
From: Seattle, WA
Status: offline

thanks for adding on gents! Keep it up :)

_____________________________

There are those who'd call us a bunch of sots but we don't see ourselves like that. We see ourselves as hobbyists. - Kevin Barry

(in reply to Wine_Strategies)

Post #: 4

RE: Annotated List of Non-Fruit-Bomb Aussie Wines - 11/6/2017 12:39:41 PM

forceberry

Posts: 908
Joined: 8/4/2017
From: Finland
Status: offline

Penfolds St. Henri is great! It's quite like Penfolds Grange, but made in more restrained old-world style and it costs only a fraction of Grange's price!

That is still not to say it is cheap. :D

_____________________________

Check my blog and join me in my search for rare and unknown grape varieties and wine styles!
My CT profile

(in reply to hankj)

Post #: 5

RE: Annotated List of Non-Fruit-Bomb Aussie Wines - 11/6/2017 1:20:09 PM

jmcmchi

Posts: 3226
Joined: 8/6/2013
Status: offline

As a generality, you can take Western Australia, Tasmania and Victoria as unlikely to produce fruit bombs just because of climate

In S Australia, Adelaide Hills and Clare are similarly cooler, and many modern Barossa and McLaren Vale offerings generally are trending towards more subtlety. From what I see in the US, however, a large proportion of imports are in the heavier style, seemingly because that is what the market expects

(in reply to forceberry)

Post #: 6

RE: Annotated List of Non-Fruit-Bomb Aussie Wines - 11/6/2017 2:01:42 PM

hankj

Posts: 4672
Joined: 6/26/2008
From: Seattle, WA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: forceberry

Penfolds St. Henri is great! It's quite like Penfolds Grange, but made in more restrained old-world style and it costs only a fraction of Grange's price!

That is still not to say it is cheap. :D

I read this recently, needs to be a first stop in a re-visit

_____________________________

There are those who'd call us a bunch of sots but we don't see ourselves like that. We see ourselves as hobbyists. - Kevin Barry

(in reply to forceberry)

Post #: 7

RE: Annotated List of Non-Fruit-Bomb Aussie Wines - 11/6/2017 5:55:37 PM

khmark7

Posts: 11444
Joined: 7/6/2008
From: Chicago suburbs
Status: offline

St Henri is great stuff, but i haven't seen it for maybe 10 years.

_____________________________

"a rogue Provence rouge of unknown provenance." author grafstrb

(in reply to hankj)

Post #: 8

RE: Annotated List of Non-Fruit-Bomb Aussie Wines - 11/6/2017 6:18:54 PM

mclancy10006

Posts: 4510
Joined: 3/19/2007
From: Cape Cod, MA & Bellevue, WA
Status: offline

I had a few Jamsheed Pyren (2012 or 2013) when I was down under that I quite liked that were in no way fruit bombs.
-Mark

< Message edited by mclancy10006 -- 11/6/2017 6:20:07 PM >

(in reply to khmark7)

Post #: 9

RE: Annotated List of Non-Fruit-Bomb Aussie Wines - 11/6/2017 10:46:02 PM

jmcmchi

Posts: 3226
Joined: 8/6/2013
Status: offline

Just drank a 2003 Shiraz (Kays Amery Hillside) under screwcap from McLaren Vale

Delicious; just a hint of brown - more brick colour - with lovely delicacy. Just shows what could be produced in the midst of the monsters of the period - or maybe just a symptom of how they develop. I'm seeing some similar results from other mature (MLV and Barossa) shiraz and cab from the period; this is a new thing to me, as I hadn't drunk much Aussie wine over 12 years old before this latest start.

Could be provenance - all of these have been in bonded warehouses until last month - but all have surprised with their freshness and balance.

I'll be tasting an early 2000's vertical of Elderton Command shiraz in a few days; I'm really looking forward to it

(in reply to mclancy10006)

Post #: 10

RE: Annotated List of Non-Fruit-Bomb Aussie Wines - 11/7/2017 12:24:29 AM

penguinoid

Posts: 1066
Joined: 1/10/2013
From: Australia via the UK, now in Bozen-Bolzano, Italy
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: hankj
Hi folks - discussion on another thread forked to Australian wines, and the response to my question on which to look for led to this generous and useful response from newer forum member Penguinoid (Who unfortunately attests to being "Probably not a penguin." Sad, but we shall endure).

So I've pasted that response here - definitely deserves the daylight - thank again "mate"! (did I do that right?;)

No problem -- and thanks for reposting. Though I grew up in the UK and so don't exactly speak like a proper Aussie ;-).

_____________________________

Probably not a penguin

https://www.cellartracker.com/user.asp?iUserOverride=167981

https://www.instagram.com/penguinoid/
https://blog.wodewose.org/

(in reply to hankj)

Post #: 11

RE: Annotated List of Non-Fruit-Bomb Aussie Wines - 11/7/2017 12:27:10 AM

penguinoid

Posts: 1066
Joined: 1/10/2013
From: Australia via the UK, now in Bozen-Bolzano, Italy
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: bretrooks
Coincidentally, I recently had my first Tasmanian wine (a bordeaux blend), and it would certainly qualify as a non-fruit-bomb Aussie wine...

2010 Domaine A Petit 'a'
Not decanted, consumed over 1 1/2 hours. A bit austere, dark berry and currant notes, but lean and structured and fairly savory. A little bit vegetal - in the sense of garden vegetables moreso than "greenness." The fruit that is there seems dense enough that it could last a while. My gut impression is that this may be better (for my palate) with another year or two of age, and that it should drink well for several years beyond that.

Tasmania can be pretty cold, though with occasional hot spells. I visited Hobart last December (ie, mid summer) and it snowed on top of Mount Wellington ;-).

I've not tried Domaine A's wines but they're very well regarded. Whilst Tasmania is more famous for Pinot, my favourite wine from that trip was a Pooley Estate Cabernet Merlot that was lovely. https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine=2549332&iNote=6078737

< Message edited by penguinoid -- 11/7/2017 12:43:41 AM >

_____________________________

Probably not a penguin

https://www.cellartracker.com/user.asp?iUserOverride=167981

https://www.instagram.com/penguinoid/
https://blog.wodewose.org/

(in reply to bretrooks)

Post #: 12

RE: Annotated List of Non-Fruit-Bomb Aussie Wines - 11/7/2017 12:30:17 AM

penguinoid

Posts: 1066
Joined: 1/10/2013
From: Australia via the UK, now in Bozen-Bolzano, Italy
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: Wine_Strategies
vg, with 10-20+ years on them:
[..]Parker First Growth

I've tried some very good wines from Parker Coonawarra Estate ... BUT there's been a change of ownership recently and the wines no longer seem as good. Pre ?2012 are great, but after that, I'd be less certain.

Philip White wrote about this a little while ago: https://drinkster.blogspot.com/2013/12/clumsy-start-for-heskeths-wd.html
(Note that 'Hungry Dan's is Philip White's nickname for the liquor chain Dan Murphys -- as a pun on fast food chain Hungry Jacks).

_____________________________

Probably not a penguin

https://www.cellartracker.com/user.asp?iUserOverride=167981

https://www.instagram.com/penguinoid/
https://blog.wodewose.org/

(in reply to Wine_Strategies)

Post #: 13

RE: Annotated List of Non-Fruit-Bomb Aussie Wines - 11/7/2017 12:42:02 AM

penguinoid

Posts: 1066
Joined: 1/10/2013
From: Australia via the UK, now in Bozen-Bolzano, Italy
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: jmcmchi
As a generality, you can take Western Australia, Tasmania and Victoria as unlikely to produce fruit bombs just because of climate

In S Australia, Adelaide Hills and Clare are similarly cooler, and many modern Barossa and McLaren Vale offerings generally are trending towards more subtlety. From what I see in the US, however, a large proportion of imports are in the heavier style, seemingly because that is what the market expects

Yes, very true as a generality -- though some winemakers do seem to make 15% alcohol fruit bombs in cool climates... In Victoria, Rutherglen is the exception to the rule, and is quite a hot region. Great for fortifieds (and, increasingly, for rich table wines).

The Adelaide Hills are frankly confusing. Some parts are quite cool, others are warm enough for Grenache. I have certainly visited Lenswood on really hot (30C+) days in summer... and then, a few days later, needed to use the car heater as it'd suddenly gone cold and rainy. It's always a few degrees cooler than Adelaide, at least.

jmcmchi -- Kays Brothers Hillside Shiraz is a great wine too. I've not tried an older vintage, that would have been beautiful.

_____________________________

Probably not a penguin

https://www.cellartracker.com/user.asp?iUserOverride=167981

https://www.instagram.com/penguinoid/
https://blog.wodewose.org/

(in reply to jmcmchi)

Post #: 14

RE: Annotated List of Non-Fruit-Bomb Aussie Wines - 11/7/2017 1:54:44 AM

pclin

Posts: 1912
Joined: 5/29/2012
From: Exile in my own country
Status: offline

I have given up OZ wines for many years but have confidence in these few producers: Penfolds, Cullen, and Clonakilla. To be honest, I think NZ are making better Shiraz wines.

< Message edited by pclin -- 11/7/2017 1:55:25 AM >

_____________________________

Alles hat ein Ende, nur die Wurst hat zwei

(in reply to penguinoid)

Post #: 15

RE: Annotated List of Non-Fruit-Bomb Aussie Wines - 11/7/2017 5:17:23 AM

penguinoid

Posts: 1066
Joined: 1/10/2013
From: Australia via the UK, now in Bozen-Bolzano, Italy
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: pclin

I have given up OZ wines for many years but have confidence in these few producers: Penfolds, Cullen, and Clonakilla. To be honest, I think NZ are making better Shiraz wines.

No doubt that NZ are making some very good wines at the moment. I've read good things about their syrahs, particularly from Hawkes Bay, but have not got to try any yet, as they're not easily available here. I have trouble seeing it as a competition, though: Australian syrah is different to NZ syrah, and they're both different to French syrahs. No doubt they're all different to American syrahs (also unavailable here!). One thing I like about wine is the diversity of wines and wine styles available, and it's always great to try new wines. (Though sometimes I think I could happily move to Beaune and drink almost nothing but Burgundy....)

To be heretical, if someone ever gave me enough money for a bottle of Grange (which is unlikely) I think I'd buy a bottle of Greenock Creek Roennfeldt Road Shiraz and a bottle of Chapoutier Hermitage instead. There might even be enough left over to buy a bottle of Hawkes Bay syrah too...

_____________________________

Probably not a penguin

https://www.cellartracker.com/user.asp?iUserOverride=167981

https://www.instagram.com/penguinoid/
https://blog.wodewose.org/

(in reply to pclin)

Post #: 16

RE: Annotated List of Non-Fruit-Bomb Aussie Wines - 11/7/2017 6:45:43 AM

BigJ

Posts: 138
Joined: 6/13/2008
From: New Zealand, but lost in China, somewhere
Status: offline

The list so far is looking pretty good.
I am a huge St Henri fan, its not a cheap wine, but I think it offers excellent value. I really enjoy Seppelts St Peters from the grampians area, an excellent cooler climate shiraz and it seems to fly a bit under the radar, everywhere. Also wines I think worth mentioning are those of Voyager estate (western Australia) and Shaw and smith (south australia) , the former makes a great Cab blend at a very reasonable price, the latter, Chardonnay, shiraz and sauvignon blanc. I can't speak for availability, but if you see them, highly recommend to try.

(in reply to penguinoid)

Post #: 17

RE: Annotated List of Non-Fruit-Bomb Aussie Wines - 11/7/2017 12:59:05 PM

jmcmchi

Posts: 3226
Joined: 8/6/2013
Status: offline

quote:

BigJ

Also wines I think worth mentioning are those of Voyager estate (western Australia) and Shaw and smith (south australia) , the former makes a great Cab blend at a very reasonable price,

+1 on Voyager's cab blend; the basic blend is outstanding value and not significantly lower quality than the premium offerings. They also have an interesting project going on chardonnay - different clones/treatments. Not sure that they are available in the US

(in reply to BigJ)

Post #: 18

RE: Annotated List of Non-Fruit-Bomb Aussie Wines - 11/7/2017 6:56:36 PM

doc2

Posts: 354
Joined: 12/29/2015
From: Philly, living in Columbia, MD
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: Wine_Strategies

vg, with 10-20+ years on them:
Thalgara
Yarra Yerring
Brokenwood
Parker First Growth
Penfold's RWT
Moss Wood
Penley Reserve Cab
Cape Mentele
Balgownie

LindsayM is a great taster/note writer, I'm a fan; good way to learn about some of the treasures that aren't really exported, and a few that are

+1 for 20 year old Penfold RWT. Those tests went very well.

(in reply to Wine_Strategies)

Post #: 19

RE: Annotated List of Non-Fruit-Bomb Aussie Wines - 11/8/2017 5:50:56 PM

ikileo

Posts: 1318
Joined: 4/14/2009
From: Singapore
Status: offline

I'm a big fan of tasmanian wines. I have an importer here that specializes in the stuff. really amazing quality that doesn't break the bank.

Here's a list for some of the good ones from Tassie. I have tried a good portion of them and they're really nice stuff. my palate is more leaning towards a ripe-ish cool climate elegance; so tasmania is right up my alley.

http://www.decanter.com/features/regional-profile-tasmania-245888/2/

https://www.goodfood.com.au/drinks/huon-hookes-top-12-tasmanian-wine-producers-20150219-13i51u

As a Riesling person, special shoutout to Riesling producers: 'Pressing Matters' and 'Stargazer'. amazing stuff.

_____________________________

A bottle a day keeps my money away.

(in reply to doc2)

Post #: 20