KPB
Posts: 4659
Joined: 11/25/2012 From: Ithaca, New York Status: offline
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Here in NYS there are a lot of people experimenting with other ways of making port-like wines, and I've had them in Oregon too, like the port from Sinnean. Basically, if you have jammy, sweet, late harvest anything, and you add grappa (spirits) you can end up with a red or white or even pink port. Let the wine oxidize enough and it will seem like a tawny port. But not all ports are created equal. I would say that this approach is yielding drinkable fortified wines from all over: California, Oregon, NYS, etc. But what I like about real port from Portugal is that they have centuries of experience and are using really great pairings of the choice of wine with the choice of spirits, etc. So whether you prefer a tawny or late bottled style or a vintage port style (I myself am totally into vintage port), frankly nobody comes close to what these wines out of Portugal achieve. Ironically, people are often unaware of how cheap they can be, too. The issue is that WA or something writes up some totally new release and everyone goes insane and bids up the price of the 2011 VPs. So they do cost a lot: $150 a bottle for a good wine from Taylor or Fonseca or Dow or Graham, for example. But first of all, Portugal releases the "non vintage year" wines under the single Quinta labels and you might find a Quinta da Vesuvio for a fraction of that. It can be every bit as good. Second, VP matures at a glacial pace and right now, the 1970's and 1980's are just peaking. But weirdly, by the time the wines are at their best, nobody seems to care about them and the prices are often really low, even on the shelves of your local retailer, and certainly at auction. Even more weirdly, because VP is incredibly robust stuff and can tolerate moderate warmth in the cellar and other storage issues, even bottles reported as showing small signs of leaks are often just fine (the corks go bad after 25 years so tiny amounts of leakage are normal for a wine like the 1985 Graham VP, which is totally in its zone right now, or the 1983 Fonseca). You can bid $45 on a bottle like that and might win, because leakers terrify people who bid in auctions, even the tiniest degree of stickiness around the capsule. You won't find a great $45 port made in the US right now, or at least I never have. And if you did, it would be made from Zinfandel or something like that, probably not a jammy late-harvest pinot noir...
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Ken Birman The Professor of Brettology
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