nyccablover
Posts: 293
Joined: 1/9/2012 From: NYC Status: offline
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This summer a group of friends has been exploring the world of grower champagnes. This past Saturday was the second of a series of mini tastings where we taste three grower champagnes side by side and follow them over the course of a few hours. Champagnes were paired with salumi and cheese platter and consumed in a leisurely fashion. Today's choices were all Blancs de Noirs, with two 100% Pinot Noir selections and one 100% Pinot Meunier. NV Benoît Lahaye Champagne Grand Cru Brut Essentiel - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru Golden hay colored - ever so slightly cloudy. Nice nose of apple, lemon and dough. Very full and round on the palate, zingy acidity, brioche notes, and minerality. My favorite of the flight - really enjoyed this and will seek out this producer again. 2011 Ulysse Collin Champagne Les Maillons - France, Champagne This is an interesting one - having read this improved with air we experimented and popped and poured half the bottle and decanted the other half. The PnP portion seemed quite generic, clean and sharp with a nice mousse - but undistinguished. By contrast the decanted portion really opened up and shined in the glass. The qualities of the underlying wine really stood out with a slight oxidative note, lemon curd, green apples and minerals. It was like drinking two completely different wines. This was my 2nd favorite but a close second to the Benoit LaHaye. 2008 Christophe Mignon Champagne Brut Nature - France, Champagne The nose on this was very funky and yeasty - blew off a bit with airtime. This one is quite bracing, the low dosage stands out because it lacks the richer more vinous qualities of the Ulysses Collin Maillons and the Benoit LaHaye. One of the tasters found this to be their favorite - while myself and the others had this in last place. I think this ultimately is a style decision - for me i find this a bit to lean and severe. Very interesting line up with two champagnes that I would gladly drink again (Lahaye and Collin) and one that I will probably not seek out (Mignon) after having tried it on two occasions. The first tasting in July, introduced me to three producers I would gladly drink again (Laherte Freres, Fallet Prevostat and Pierre Gimonet). We have also learned about the benefits of decanting certain styles of grower champagne for optimum enjoyment (specifically the Collin and the Fallet Prevostat). Looking forward to part III where we will try Selosse, Agrapart and Cedric Bouchard.
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