GARAGISTE

With a small chunk of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend (instead of just Cabernet Franc and Merlot), the 2009 Vallon des Brumes gained what many in this vintage lack: finely grained structure that is poised and delineated. An absolute classic offering, they hit nearly every mark with this effort and the restraint and balance is not only admirable, but it shows what could have been done with such exemplary natural fruit (instead of what too many others did in 2009 – allow the grapes to hang for so long, the sugar levels were out of control and acidity dropped).

With a mass of cherry/char notes, plum skin and cherry pulp, this wine is alluring right for the first cork-pull. Hints of quality bitter dark chocolate begin to emerge (not from wood) and you can literally smell the minerality. Sage (even sage oil?) comes forth and the Cabernet Franc beings to shows itself after a few hours with a fennel dusted, red fruit and licorice root combination that keeps you coming back for another whiff and another sip. Fine-grained tannins complete the exercise and the taster is left with an overall impression of what the French would call "racinaire" – it tastes of its “root” or root place and that’s exactly what we are searching for.

Unlike the perception of many 2009 Bordeaux, the Vallon des Brumes is not explosive or jammy at all – rather, it is impressive for its elegance and structure. It is a wonderful little Bordeaux, made in the classic style and it also happens to be 100% unfiltered and organic with low-impact practices in the cellar and only gravity as the driving force in the winery (no electricity).

If you think naturally produced wine tastes the same as everything else, for $13.98 I would give this more than a passing glance - there's a reason it won the Medaille d’Or in Bruxelles a few weeks ago.

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