Today’s white is a special and severely limited treat for those who like to veer from the restrictive path of French wine regulation. “Granit Blanc” is a small-production, full-bodied white blend sourced from the sloped hillsides of the microscopic Cornas appellation. So, other than its tiny 200-case production—only a fraction of which make it to our shores—what makes it a true rarity?

Cornas is the only red winemaking appellation in Northern Rhône that restricts white wine production. Meaning, the moment a producer adds anything other than Syrah, they must forfeit the “Cornas” label. From a financial and market recognition standpoint, it makes sense to focus on Syrah, but Vincent Paris threw all caution to the wind and began experimenting outside those bounds. As a result, he had to put a generic appellation (Vin de Pays de L’Ardeche) on “Granit Blanc,” which likely means sacrificing sales—until, of course, people taste the wine: it’s a mightily perfumed, “Condrieu-like” wine at a certifiably unbeatable price. This is a rare opportunity to experience a powerful and complex white wine sourced from a revered appellation; it is truly special, as I’m certain you will agree.

Vincent Paris may be a relative newcomer to Rhône winemaking (his first vintage was 1997), but he was born and raised in Cornas and knows the land intimately. He’s young (for this region’s standards) and brimming with energy, which allowed him to storm onto the scene after inheriting a small stand of ancient Syrah vines from his grandfather. In addition, he rents a few acres from his now-retired uncle, Robert Michel—one of Cornas’ most celebrated names. Vincent currently serves as co-president of the appellation so he knows the rules and regulations like the back of his hand. That in mind, his decision to plant Viognier and Roussanne in a region inundated with Syrah wasn’t a financially sound decision, but it’s one he felt would yield interesting results.

The tiny region of Cornas—under 300 planted acres—is the most southern of Northern Rhône’s famous appellations, naturally making it the warmest. Unlike the other major appellations that can add small percentages of Viognier or Roussanne/Marsanne, Cornas must be 100% Syrah. After years of monitoring his steep hillside holdings, Vincent began focusing on a cool, north-facing section. Instead of deliberating, he went straight to work by planting a parcel of Viognier and Roussanne; he bottled his first “Granit Blanc” in 2006. Vincent farms these vines organically (with biodynamic practices as well) and prunes heavily—leaving only four bunches of grapes per vine! Fermentation occurs with indigenous yeasts and the wine ages in stainless steel for a brief six months in order to retain its freshness, precision, and purity.

In the glass, Paris’ 2017 “Granit Blanc” displays a deep yellow-gold with copper hues and profound concentration. The wine is viscous, with thick and heavy tears that coat the glass. The aromatics are incredibly powerful, with ripe quince, yellow apple, pear, peach yogurt, lemon curd, lilac and gardenia flowers, apricot jam, crushed stones, sweet spice, and honeysuckle. The palate is equally expressive. At once, the wine coats your mouth with rich textures and a great presence of acidity (due to the cooler vine site). Overall, it’s a bold and heady wine that is nearing full-bodied. You can expect the plush, slightly sweet fruits to populate your taste buds from start to finish without ever coming across as cloying. Pungent, powerful, and surprisingly graceful, it’s a wonderful combination that should be enjoyed over the next 3-5 years. When consuming, pour into Burgundy stems at 45-50 degrees and pair with shelled lobster on a bed of stir-fry, Cantonese-style! It’s a breeze to make and a fresh take on a seafood typically submerged in butter sauce. Cheers!

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