Theise: And 1-star because it is actually well up into Auslese ripeness;
indeed it’s a poster-child for the ‘06 dilemma – can you plausibly offer a “Kabinett”
that’s in fact an Auslese with a kind-of-Kabinett sweetness? In effect an Auslese-feinherb?
The nose is classic Treppchen; crackery and very slatey, with an amazing fragrance
of roses and arresting salty grip on the back-palate. The wine is balanced for its
size and weight, and has finely specific character given its intensity. It’s actually my
favorite Justen of the vintage.
SOS: 2 (12-25 years)

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