2004 Domaine Macle Côtes du Jura Tradition
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Macle's Cotes du Jura is a blend of Chardonnay and Savagnin (80% Chardonnay, 20% Savagnin) from a section of vineyards that was included in Chateau Chalon until the appellation was rigidly redrawn in the 1980s. Macle's Cotes du Jura doesn't show the klaidescopic intensity of the Chateau Chalons, though it is more accessible both in terms of price and style. The Chardonnay offers a buffer to the pungency of Savagnin, and the wine is masterfully assembled offering up beautifully pure fruits of great density and weight. Accompanying this clean primary fruit are soft glazes of nuts, salt, mushrooms, pine needles and softly savory green spices - backed up and balanced by a glossy minerality and a mouthfeel that is oily with wonderful precision and poise. It's easy to suspect that this will still be drinking well in 20+ years.
(Crush Wines writeup)