Community Tasting Note

• sweetstuff wrote: 96 points

  November 24, 2017 - 1983 Fürstlich Castell'sches Domänenamt Casteller Schlossberg Silvaner Eiswein (Germany, Franken), FrankischeWeinprämeriung Würzburg Goldmedaille (Gold Medal). Alcohol 8.5 pabv, AP 44; $46/750 ml from Brentwood/Benchmark, before premium and shipping. Klaus Dillman Has a Heritage Auction sticker on the bottle. Wine Warehouse, Los Angeles. Thanksgiving weekend as we approach our wedding early December (9).
  
  These vineyards are a very special calcitic limestone-type soil which is a mixture of 'gipskeuper' and alabaster (I understand, having seen myself the huge alabaster carved jugs in the tasting room), giving a wonderful home-base for the Silvaner as it first came into Germany circa 1659 here, and probably in the region as a whole exceeding quality and style possibilities nearly everywhere else in the world for this grape.
  
  Deep, slightly bitty green-amber; allowed under Argon in Coravin 4 hours before first taste. Bit of foamy sheeting; harmonious and integral tea, tree bark, light honey, and light rubber, veal broth, stewed apricot with touch of prune and clove or nutmeg. Snappy acidity with rich sweetness that is still in a tug of war with the tartness; smooth spearmint tea finish that sails on to great length and has a slightly peppery bass note holding things together. Has a slightly thicker texture in the mouth than a Riesling Eiswein, and the white wine tannins start showing their presence on the tongue as the session continues. The empty glass has a wonderful creamy/buttery/apple-skin aroma. Obviously still has some development potential in glass, but is at peak of maturity and pleasure. Later a nice light leather flavor emerges on palate.
  
  There comes now a several hour period in which this scales the ladder up into a rare region of near perfection, finesse, and harmony with scintillating glimpses including a mahogany basso that hold the attention riveted and a sweet orange/anise combo that becomes more prominent as fruit lines up. Something very special and rare. If a half dozen bottlings have been made over the last 50 years I'd be shocked. Kudoses to Dillman and Detroit's Paul Mann,who selected this for import!)
  
  Drink now-2022 if well-stored and in good condition 96+/100 RPP.
  
  This bottle shows a classic-quality varietal Eiswein that is much more than the sum of its parts, and a super-steal at this price. Although showing evidence of Botrytis the difference is not all that important at this age in this sample.
  
  Third day the wine develops more smoky leather and wet stone scents. Juicy sweetness, bitter zests, and tannins seem more in balance but still will develop in an open glass for many hours.
  
  This was a wine that caused plenty of excitement at Tim McCarthy's Cost-Plus Wine Warehouse Eastern Market, Detroit, in the mid-nineteen eighties. I seem to remember it being released at retail at about $55, a stiff tariff in those days. One was shared among the regulars when I was absent and praised highly, and I've been looking for some at auction since. I've passed on one or two opportunities due to condition issues until today.
  
  Note that there are two different Eisweine from this maker and vineyard: The AP 5000-044-84 was sold in the US in 750 ml Bocksbeutels and is said by the maker to be the sweeter in terms of RS; the AP 024084 was sold in Europe in 375 ml half-Bocksbeutels and is the drier. This was an enormous Eiswein harvest here, largest in memory. Not many vintages of this style of wine are made at Castell. See the Wiki notes. (78 views)

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