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Pre-2000 Chiantis at Tolani
Tolani Restaurant, NYC
Tasted October 13, 2010 by dougsmith with 750 views
Introduction
Thanks to Fernando Losada for setting this up, and to Bob Fyke for getting us a place at the restaurant a day before its official opening. Also great to see Greg dal Piaz, Eric Guido and Greg Tatar, and to meet Bruce Sanderson.
Food was generally very good, and the company was excellent. We had a few dud wines, but also a few standouts. Definitely, the WOTN was the 1977 Monsanto Il Poggio, for which (along with the 1980) special thanks go to Eric.
Flight 1 (2 notes)
Red
1985 Boscarelli Vino da Tavola
91 points
Earthy, spicy and minerally on the nose, with elements of pencil lead and anise. Delicate black fruits and stone on the palate with tannic grip at the finish.
NB: this wine is from Cervignano di Montepulciano, as noted on the bottle.
NB: this wine is from Cervignano di Montepulciano, as noted on the bottle.
Red
1985 Isole e Olena Chianti Classico Riserva
92 points
Very pretty nose with elements of tobacco, spice, forest floor and figs. Some mustiness as well. Soft red fruits on the palate, this has a way to go yet, with good grip.
Flight 2 (2 notes)
Red
1995 Stefano Farina Chianti Classico Le Bocce
92 points
Medium ruby color. Nose of tobacco leaf, macerated red berries and spicebox. Mouthcoating red fruit and complex spices on the palate, excellent and very youthful wine yet.
Red
1996 Castell'in Villa Chianti Classico
89 points
Musty, piney nose, lots of fragrant herbs. Pungent herbs on the palate as well, at least on the attack, but a slightly weak finish with a touch of harshness.
Flight 3 (2 notes)
Red
1991 Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva Badia a Passignano
90 points
Cedary, somewhat funky nose, with dry grain and spice notes. I didn't get much in the way of fruit, though the rest is quite nice. Very dry on the palate, like a dry spice rub almost, and cigar smoke.
Red
1990 Villa di Vetrice Chianti Rùfina Riserva
flawed
Corked. Pity, this seemed like a nice wine otherwise; good grip on the palate.
Flight 4 (2 notes)
Red
1995 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia
91 points
Somewhat reticent on the nose, particularly at first. Delicate floral elements with some balsam and aromatic herbs. Bright red cherry on the palate, big presence, and a lovely wine.
Red
1996 Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva Villa Antinori
flawed
Not sure what the problem was here, but this wine was flawed.
Flight 5 (2 notes)
Red
1997 Marchesi Mazzei Chianti Classico Castello di Fonterutoli
85 points
Ashy on the nose, somewhat musty with a touch of fragrant herbs. Dry on the palate with some black cherry flavors.
Red
1997 La Massa Giorgio Primo
88 points
Nose as of cooked bulgur wheat and spicebox. Good acidity on the palate with flavors of pungent herbs and black cherries. Empties out a bit on the finish, though.
Flight 6 (1 note)
Red
1997 Castello di Monsanto Tinscvil Toscana IGT
88 points
Earthy and meaty on the nose, some sweet black cherry and herb aromas. A bit thinned out on the palate, good acidity.
Flight 7 (3 notes)
Red
1977 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio
93 points
Very complex on the nose with nuances of aromatic herbs and dry red cherries. On the palate, loads of focused red cherry essence; delicate and alive. WOTN 93+ pts.
Red
1980 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio
91 points
Very complex and beautiful aromas of plum skin, a mix of thyme, lavender, anise and other aromatic herbs. Hard to describe this wine. It was a bit dried out on the palate, however, with a touch of bitter tannins at the end. Still, with that nose it's worth the effort. If the palate had been as good it would have been a knockout.
Red
1990 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio
flawed
This wine had clearly become cooked and/or oxidized somewhere on its long journey here. Very unfortunate.
Flight 8 (1 note)
The last wine was a dessert offering from Greg Tatar's Hungarian researches.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2006 Szent Benedek Pincészet Tokaji Remete
91 points
Light lemon color. Intense nose of pear compote, honey and merengue. Full and mouthcoating on the palate with a good balance of acidity. (500 ml, 10.3% abv.)