A single glass as an aperitif. Good, clean, minerally with a touch of green apple. This is smoother and rounder than my last taste of this a couple of years ago. Good aperitif material. ***

Half bottle. Mid gold in colour. A touch volatile on the nose initially but this blows off very quickly to reveal quite a mineral nose with suggestions of old furniture varnish and lanolin both of which follow through to the palate. Intense and mineral attack but all the complexity is up front with little development on the mid-palate and a lighter, less persistent finish. Good acidity. Quite clean and unoxidative for Tondonia and significantly fresher than the 87 GR tasted at the bodega in November. ***1/2

Mid garnet. Lovely nose, all hedgerow, and damp leaves with some mushroom and well hung meat adding complexity to the decaying red berry fruit. Similar on palate, sous-bois complexity, a lovely silky texture and decent length. Lovely and mature. No deterioration over the couple of hours the bottle lasted. ****

A single glass as an aperitif. Nice salmon pink in colour. Red fruit on the nose - strawberry and a touch of raspberry. Quite full and tight, broad on entry but then focuses up to a winey rather than obviously champagney mid-palate before the bubbles and acidity kick in on the finish. Decent but I prefered the Gimmonet BdeB of the previous evening. **1/2

Decanted. Pale to mid straw shot through with green. Gloriously fresh and mineral on the nose and similar on the attack. Very positive and correct, mineral and stoney with white floral and fruit aspects, some weight through the mid-palate and a long and positive finish. Wonderful line and cut, this is all clarity and precission and a wonderfully stoney advert for Perrieres. Wine of the stay. As this matures and takes on some weight it could rate higher, but for now, ****1/2

Half bottle. Deep gold. Good botrytis on the nose. Rich, creamy and obviously sweet attack, rich and quite thick-textured. Seville orange, coconut, cream, very sweet but excellent acidity. Really lovely and ready in half bottle form. Matched well with blue cheeses and then an apple tart. ****