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50th Anniversary of the '61 Vintage!

WhisknLadle Restaurant, La Jolla, California

Tasted October 4, 2011 by La Cave d'Argent with 827 views

Introduction

Someone in our group had a very special birthday during the month of June, coinciding with the 50th anniversary of the '61 vintage. We decided to name the event after the vintage's anniversary, rather than milking the birthday theme for 4+ months. Our guests included our very dear friends: Amy and Ken Emery, Luz and Marshall Banker and "Dr. Bordeaux," Ken Johnson. The setting was the "private room" at WhisknLadle restaurant, with the menu being crafted by Chef Michael Liotta in collaboration with Executive Chef Ryan Johnston. What transpired was culinary magic!

Flight 1 - Greetings and Bubbly! (1 note)

Guests arrived and were treated to bubbly in a bit of a walk-around, which included lots of hugs between old friends.

White - Sparkling
1996 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut France, Champagne
99 points
It had been about two years since I last tasted this wine, and it remained ethereal to my palate. Medium yellow and still showing a brisk, tiny bead, the nose was as mesmerizing as ever. Bread dough, almonds, citrus and cardamom are some of the numerous aromas that would trigger one's olfactory bulb. The palate showed nice acidity yet a creamy mouth texture. The flavors mirrorred the nose and the crisp finish was very long. This is truly a celestial, feminine Champagne which seems to keep getting even better. It is going to last longer than I had originally anticipated. Drink now-12/25.

Flight 2 - Canapés (1 note)

Cured salmon (chile oil, horseradish and masago with chives), lamb tartare (anchoiade and crispy shishito pepper), black truffle salami (shaved radish and black pepper butter) and figs (lomo and morbier).

White - Sparkling
1985 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Cuvée Charlie France, Champagne
94 points
This wine was kindly provided by our dear friends, Amy and Ken Emery. I forgot that I had tasted this wine nine months earlier. This version (a bit more mature than the bottle tasted 1/14/11) was medium gold and showed a very brisk bead (especially for a 26-year-old Champagne). The nose was very intense, with a aromas of marzipan, walnuts, crème brulée and a touch of sherry. A medium-bodied sparkler on the palate, with crisp acidity and flavors in line with the nose. The middle was solid and the finish went on and on. Fantastic bubbly! Drink now-12/20.

Flight 3 - First Entrée (1 note)

Pan-seared Maine scallop (sweet and sour beets, braised cucumber and celery seed).

White
2002 Henri Boillot Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
90 points
This medium gold-colored wine, provided by Luz and Marshall Banker, was opened and briefly sampled by our purveyor. Since it was felt to be quite reduced, it was decanted and allowed to aerate for 30 minutes or so before serving. I personally saved much of the wine in my glass for later tasting, as it did not give up much when served with its food pairing. Fortunately, time in glass was what this wine needed. Over a two-hour period, the "teasing" was replaced by a moderately intense nose of green apples, wet stones and vanilla cream. Medium-bodied on the palate, with low-to-medium acidity, good minerality and a solid middle. The round finish was medium in length. A touch more acidity and better aromatics would have resulted in a higher score, although the latter may have further emerged had it been given even more time in decanter (or glass). Drink now-12/15.

Flight 4 - Second Entrée (0 notes)

Pain Perdu (Zinfandel candied apples and sauce foie gras), served with a (very nicely paired) 2007 Sauternes provided complimentary by our chef and server.

Flight 5 - Third and Fourth Entrées (2 notes)

Lamb crepinettes (charred chicory and red wine glace). Confit of moulard duck leg (roasted plums, ice wine verjus, pistachio and tropea onion).

Red
1961 Clos Fourtet France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
92 points
This '61 (with high shoulder/low neck fill), pristinely cellared (before and after my acquisition), was given to me by an ageing friend in 1994 (when the wine was 33-years-old). This dear friend knew that it was my wife's birth year, and I elected to open other '61s on her 40th. Now, at her young age of 50, we decided to open this bottle and enjoy it with good friends. The crumbly cork was effectively extracted by Ken Johnson (AKA "Dr. Bordeaux") and the wine was gently decanted and served immediately. Our fear about the delicate nature of the wine was quickly dispelled. Indeed, it needed air! The nose was pleasant from the get-go, but developed over 90 minutes to show a beautiful bouquet of dark plum, leather, kirsch, licorice and lavender. Full-bodied and unctuous on the palate, with high acidity and medium residual tannins. The flavors were complex and mirrored the nose. Long, slightly tart finish. This bottle showed very nicely. The nose was exquisite, largely because of the reason why the palate was a bit shy of great...lots of acid. This bottle was very well-preserved because of the acid/tannin structure, which accordingly resulted in a fresh nose. The palate which followed was a bit tough, but pleasant nonetheless. Bravo to Clos Fortet...a right bank wine which (assuming well-cellared) is still youthful at 50! Drink now-12/20.
Red
1961 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
93 points
This bottle was kindly provided by Ken Johnson. The fill was mid-shoulder and the external appearance of the bottle suggested that the liquid inside would be good. Our anticipation was heightened by a very pristine cork which was extracted intact. The wine, deep garnet/amber in color, was gently decanted and served immediately. Our concern about the potential delicate nature of this '61 was unfounded...rather than "dying" in the glass, the nose opened over the first 30 minutes to show a very complex bouquet of grilled meat, bramble fruit, mint, cocoa, saddle leather and earth. Full-bodied on the palate and with medium acidity, it likewise showed medium residual tannins and complex flavors mirroring the nose. The solid middle lead to a medium-to-long finish. Given that this wine is 50-years-old, I will not say that I really liked this WINE...what I will say is that I really liked this BOTTLE. Assuming comparably cellared, drink now-12/16.
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Flight 6 - Fifth Entrée (1 note)

Striploin of beef (poached in duck fat, wild mushrooms and root vegetable gratin with iziabal cheese).

Red
2003 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
98 points
This opaque crimson wine, kindly provided by Amy and Ken Emery, was splash-decanted, allowing approximately one hour in decanter, subsequently being serially tasted over the ensuing hour. The nose showed full-throttle aromas of black raspberries, crushed rocks, roasted meat, licorice and tobacco. The palate followed with similar complex flavors, framed by a structure of medium acidity and massive dusty tannins. Despite 15% alcohol, it was well-integrated. The middle palate was solid and the finish very long, albeit a bit astringent. This is a blockbuster Syrah which is still in its infancy. Although it is delicious even now, additional time in bottle will round out some of the rough edges and, for my palate, could vault this wine into perfection status. Drink 1/20-12/40.

Flight 7 - Desserts (1 note)

Gratineed Stilton (sweet and sour apple bom, savory almond crisp and shaved bresola). Apple & quince tart tatin (sour cherry compote and whipped crème fraiche).

Red - Fortified
1961 Warre Porto Colheita Portugal, Douro, Porto
88 points
This particular port, provided by Ken Johnson, was bottled in 2001 and appeared to be in pristine condition. Medium amber in color, it showed a moderately intense nose of walnuts, maraschino cherries and black tea. Medium-bodied on the palate, with low-to-medium acidity and light residual tannins. The flavors mirrored the nose. The alcohol (20%) was a bit hot, but this could have been mitigated by lowering the serving temperature a few degrees (ideally to 60-65 degrees). The middle palate was solid and the finish medium-length, albeit with a whiff of heat. This port should hold up for many more years. Drink now-12/25.

Closing

In summary, our evening was a spectacular wine and food event. For anyone visiting the San Diego area, WhisknLadle (with two amazing French Laundry-trained chefs) should be on your list of "must experience" restaurant destinations. The combination of world-class cuisine, world-class wine, world-class friends and world-class service (thank you, Bob!) in an intimate setting for seven made for a night not soon to be forgotten. Bravo!

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