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Loire Spring Dinner
Heirloom Cafe, San Francisco
Tasted April 29, 2012 by drwine2001 with 407 views
Introduction
Fresh flavors, lots of green things and mostly white Loire wines-an inspired combination! Thanks to Matt for the conception and wine pairing and to Erin for the great meal.
Flight 1 - Gougeres (1 note)
White - Sparkling
2007 Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin Vouvray Pétillant Brut Réserve
Light, active bubbles. Apple nose, low dosage, excellent rocky finish. Terrific.
Flight 2 - Miyagi oysters, Champagne mignonette (1 note)
White
2010 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine sur lie Vieilles Vignes Clos des Briords
Pale. Musky, stony aromatics. Dry, light, understated fruit, excellent intensity and minerality. This has progressed well since I last tasted it some 4 months ago.
Flight 3 - Smoked trout, spring onions, herbes fines (1 note)
White
2010 Marc Deschamps Pouilly-sur-Loire
Slightly more saturated yellow. Fuller body than the previous Muscadet. If it were not for some herbs thrown in, this would be entirely neutral and bland. While it provided a good foil to the food, in its own right, the least interesting wine of the evening.
Flight 4 - Cheese ravioli, fava beans, mushrooms, ramp butter (1 note)
White
2010 Lucien Crochet Sancerre
Pale. Bristling with grapefruit pith. Light with wonderful explosiveness for its weight, tart acidity and some youthful cyanic bitterness. Top notch basic Sancerre.
Flight 5 - Lamb stew, turnips, peas, baby carrots (2 notes)
White
2010 Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin Vouvray Sec
Not quite as much bite as when I tried it earlier this month, but still terrific juxtaposition of energetic, coiled acidity and surrounding Chenin flesh. This held up amazingly well to the beautifully spiced lamb dish with which it was paired.
Red
2003 Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Les Perrières
Saturated ruby. Intoxicating aromatic mix of mint and green herbs. Medium bodied (full for the universe of Loire Cabernet Franc). Gentle, carressing feel, excellent red fruit and olive, some herb. I don't think anyone would have guessed that this was from this notoriously hot vintage-not a trace of heat or overripeness. Marvelous and just beginning to round into form. This may be the best (and just about the only!!) 2003 European red that I own.
Flight 6 - Cardamom cake, Meyer lemon curd, strawberries (1 note)
White - Sweet/Dessert
2008 Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin Vouvray Moelleux
Deep yellow. No obvious botrytis but gorgeous citrus and tropical fruit. Harmonious and broad, off dry, impeccable balance, long finish. In a word, an achingly beautiful dessert wine. Vive Foreau!