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G.D. Burlotto Barolo

Del Posto Restaurant, NYC

Tasted January 31, 2012 by kenv with 860 views

Introduction

The Rare Wine Co. set up this dinner focusing on the Barolos of G.B. Burlotto. The official name of the winery is Azienda Agricola Comm. G.B. Burlotto, where "Comm." is an abreviation of "Il Commendatore" ("The Commander" in English), and "G.B." stands for "Giovan Battista". Il Commendatore Giovan Battista Burlotto was the highly respected founder of this winery and its winemaker for 77 years: 1850 until his death in 1927.

The guest of honor was the winemaker, Fabio Alessandria. Fabio is the son of the owner, Marina Burlotto, the Commander's great-niece, and her husband, Giuseppe Alessandria, who is responsible for the vineyards.

The food at Del Posto was excellent and well-matched to the wines except a couple of dishes that had too much hot spice for these wines. The service was excellent. All the wines were opened and double-decanted between 5 and 6pm. The dinner started around 7:45 and lasted till about 10:30pm.

Flight 1 - Flight 1 (4 notes)

Red
2007 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
95 points
Relatively light and bright color compared to the 2006 and the Cannubis. Lovely, complex nose. Rich, elegant wine. Tannic, but riveting sweet fruit on a very long finish. Classic!
Red
2007 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Cannubi Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
93 points
Classic floral Cannubi nose. Less tannic than the 07 Monvigliero, more sweet in the front. More pleasure sooner. 92-94 points.
Red
2006 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
92 points
Muted nose of intense red fruit. Much sweeter and concentrated than the 2007. Harder to judge at this stage. 92-? points.
Red
2006 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Cannubi Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Another gorgeous floral nose, but the palate is waxy and spicy in a weird way. Seems more like a Rhone. VA maybe? NR

Flight 2 - Flight 2 (4 notes)

Red
2005 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
93 points
Beautiful nose. Very balanced and harmonious. Elegant and perfumed. Quite classic. Much more similar to the 07 than the 06. 93-94 points.
Red
2004 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
95 points
Muted, highly structured. Fairly shut down at this point, but the potential is obvious. Someday, this wine may well be better than any of the preceding. 94-96 points.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2004 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Cannubi Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
93 points
Much tighter nose than previous Cannubis. Quite thick and rich in the mouth. Needs 5 years.
Red
2003 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
92 points
Lovely nose. Surprisingly structured. Not overdone or overripe like so many 03s. Fabio says that only the grapes from the very old vines went into this wine, something like 30-40% of the harvest only.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 3 - Flight 3 (4 notes)

Red
2001 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
95 points
Stunning, expansive. Elegant tannins. Great length. Wow! 94-97 points.
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
1996 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
flawed
Seems off. Hard to tell if it is the bottle or the wine. Seems cooked. NR
Red
1995 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
93 points
Elegant long. First wine with a sign of olives, the typical signature of Monvigliero. Vibrant and beautiful tonight.
Red
1989 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
96 points
[From double magnum.] Classic 1989 nose of earth and tannin. Huge, structured, massively tannic. So young from 3 liter bottle. Wish I had one of these to put down for another decade or so.

Flight 4 - Flight 4 (3 notes)

I drank these in the reverse order from the way they were served.

Red
1964 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
88 points
Sweetly maderized nose. Juicy and over the hill, but gently over the hill. Still appealing but drink up!
Red
1967 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
flawed
Totally maderized and quite unpleasant.
Red
1985 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
91 points
[From double magnum.] Smokey nose. Young, ripe, smooth. Lovely and youthful. I suspect 750s of this are quite ready, but this is still too young in 3 liter.

Closing

Fabio Alessandria and his parents are making some terrific wines at Burlotto which would honor the Commander! One fascinating aspect to this tasting is that the Monvigliero and the Cannubi are made in a similar manner, but are very different wines. It is also clear that Fabio and Monvigliero do very well in lesser vintages.

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